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Old 06-10-2009, 01:39 AM   #931
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Can you convert the 1/12 to a 1/10 version or is there a conversion kit available?
So I am guessing the answer to a conversion kit is a no?

I know trying to convert the DB12R to a DB10R is a bit pricey! I think it ends up costing more then buying a DB10R kit?

But I would be interested in a conversion kit
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Old 06-10-2009, 04:09 AM   #932
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You can convert to a 10R. What you will need is the following 10R parts

Chassis
wing brace
battery hold down plate w/ standoffs
1/10th rear axle kit
front carbon fiber bumper
body posts
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Old 06-10-2009, 04:27 AM   #933
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You can convert to a 10R. What you will need is the following 10R parts

Chassis
wing brace
battery hold down plate w/ standoffs
1/10th rear axle kit
front carbon fiber bumper
body posts
+ Macro shock And including also the shock the retail price for conversion is 241,92$, so probably not worth it
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Old 06-11-2009, 01:26 PM   #934
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No offense taken buddy. This is what i run on my car but in no way is it etched in stone. I have found that this car runs the best for me with no reactive castor. It actually increases overall steering the less i have. When i went to none at all the car seemed to have the most steering and was most predictable. I increased my side dampening to surelube #4 all around and found the balance of stability and good reaction from the car. I always run my batteries to the rear. The only time i run them forward is in low traction as odd as it sounds. It mellows the steering down and allows the car to stay on track without spinning out. I dont know about over there but over here on carpet i need to run my tires down at 2.100 front and rear and the car is super smooth. Larger than that makes the car very darty.
Thanks, Boss!! Yes, I run my tyres at 2.1 for carpet, and it does make for a much smoother set-up. I shall be running at the IIC this year, and the thought of taking those tyres out of the box and throwing 80% of the rubber straight into a truer is frightening!!

Planning to run at a Club outdoors this weekend - would you use that front end set-up there too? Let me know.
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Old 06-11-2009, 08:21 PM   #935
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Thanks, Boss!! Yes, I run my tyres at 2.1 for carpet, and it does make for a much smoother set-up. I shall be running at the IIC this year, and the thought of taking those tyres out of the box and throwing 80% of the rubber straight into a truer is frightening!!

Planning to run at a Club outdoors this weekend - would you use that front end set-up there too? Let me know.
I do run that front end setup everywhere. It seems that the 10 degree blocks have too drastic of caster change or too much caster reduction and just makes the front end skate or push. The 5's are better but overall,i feel due to the length of the World GT cars, there is no need for any caster reduction as the front cant seem to plant with that sort of drastic change in caster.
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Old 06-12-2009, 12:09 AM   #936
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+ Macro shock And including also the shock the retail price for conversion is 241,92$, so probably not worth it
Yah that was what I came up with to when I first tried to piece together the parts to convert.

Would be nice if there was a cheaper way to convert. Maybe a Chassis that still used the DB12R/RR layout? So you would just need this chassis, rear axle kit and body mounts. Yes it would'nt be the same as a DB10R but it would be a cheaper alternative for those who have DB12R/RR's to get into WGT without having to buy a new kit.
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Old 06-17-2009, 10:51 AM   #937
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Jason are you still working on the new lipo locator plate for the 10R? I'll be going to the IIC and want to order all my parts at one time.
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Old 06-29-2009, 01:26 AM   #938
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Well once again my DB10R out performed my DB12RR! This car is so easy to drive and handles so well it's just easy to put down fast laps with it. Finally this race my fastest lap of the 2 cars was with the DB12RR, but not by much...and my DB10R was so much more consistent I turned 5 more laps in qualifying with the DB10R then I did with the DB12RR. I finally decided to start re-tuning my radio settings for my DB12RR and now I'm getting quicker and more consistent with it. Looking forward to the next race already!
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Old 07-04-2009, 03:44 AM   #939
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Well here's the fresh paint for the DB10R to match my DB12RR

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Old 07-05-2009, 03:25 PM   #940
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Hi mate, got to run my BMI GT10 car again last week with some setup changes as you suggested. I found with the o degree blocks, the car was more settled but just needed a touch more intial turn in for my liking. Overall, it felt a lot 'safer'. No edgy at all. So will try a couple of other things next time. What I would like to ask though, is have you thought about making a non lowered pod for the GT10 car? I remember years ago, companies brought out lowered pods for their 12th cars that got included in the 10th car kit, but the problem is that 10th scale rear tyres are pretty big, meaning you have to true off loads to get a good ride height, which is a pain with brand new tyres. If you made a non lowered pod, we could then just use tyres out of the bag/box and not have to worry about trueing them down! Just an idea mate. Cheers, Chris.
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Old 07-05-2009, 03:38 PM   #941
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Hi mate, got to run my BMI GT10 car again last week with some setup changes as you suggested. I found with the o degree blocks, the car was more settled but just needed a touch more intial turn in for my liking. Overall, it felt a lot 'safer'. No edgy at all. So will try a couple of other things next time. What I would like to ask though, is have you thought about making a non lowered pod for the GT10 car? I remember years ago, companies brought out lowered pods for their 12th cars that got included in the 10th car kit, but the problem is that 10th scale rear tyres are pretty big, meaning you have to true off loads to get a good ride height, which is a pain with brand new tyres. If you made a non lowered pod, we could then just use tyres out of the bag/box and not have to worry about trueing them down! Just an idea mate. Cheers, Chris.
right:
http://www.bmiracing.com/webstore/ca...products_id=36

left:
http://www.bmiracing.com/webstore/ca...products_id=37

Funny thing is, I'm trying to do jsut the opposite with my DB12R.. I need the lowered plates and not these standard ones. I got my car about 2 weeks before the DB12RR was announced...
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Old 07-05-2009, 04:41 PM   #942
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Hi mate, got to run my BMI GT10 car again last week with some setup changes as you suggested. I found with the o degree blocks, the car was more settled but just needed a touch more intial turn in for my liking. Overall, it felt a lot 'safer'. No edgy at all. So will try a couple of other things next time. What I would like to ask though, is have you thought about making a non lowered pod for the GT10 car? I remember years ago, companies brought out lowered pods for their 12th cars that got included in the 10th car kit, but the problem is that 10th scale rear tyres are pretty big, meaning you have to true off loads to get a good ride height, which is a pain with brand new tyres. If you made a non lowered pod, we could then just use tyres out of the bag/box and not have to worry about trueing them down! Just an idea mate. Cheers, Chris.
You really don't want to run tires right out of the box, that's a guaranteed chunking on the first plate you hit. With 3.5 blocks mounted upside down you can get 4mm ride height at about 58mm tire diametre which is already plenty even for low bite.
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Old 07-10-2009, 07:27 PM   #943
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Hi guys, here is a short video I have made of me running my DB10 around my local club/track. Although the car now handles really nicely, when I was watching the video in slow motion, you can see that the rear end is stepping out loads when entering corners, both high speed and low! Did not notice this whilst driving though, must put some grippier tyres on the rear next time!!! All the best, Chris.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jhv93VFWMoo
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Old 07-15-2009, 10:24 PM   #944
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Hi all,
i am putting together a new kit and so far have the following setup to start:

Front:
Droop 0.020
stock .022 front springs,
0 degree caster blocks with 6 degrees of caster,
2 degrees of camber
7000 weight oil on king pins
4.5 mm ride height.

Rear:
stock center spring with 40 weight oil,
batteries all the way to the back,
stock flex plates with short mounting position,
10000 weight oil in damper tubes,
1 mm of pod droop and
4.5 mm ride height.

Lilac Spec tires front and rear
cut to 2.100 for carpet and 2.250 for asphalt
C6 Corvette body.


so there are just a couple open questions remaining:

Which of 3 front shock mount positions. from the overall shock length in the kit, the aft position would work is this the preferred starting point?

with 40 wt oil is that with the 2 or 3 hole shock piston?

how much glue for the tires, is this a common practice like with 1/12 scale foams? do you recommend just a bead to cover the foam/wheel joint or up the sidewall?

thanks a bunch for the help with this.
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Old 07-16-2009, 04:13 AM   #945
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Originally Posted by avs View Post
Hi all,
i am putting together a new kit and so far have the following setup to start:

Front:
Droop 0.020
stock .022 front springs,
0 degree caster blocks with 6 degrees of caster,
2 degrees of camber
7000 weight oil on king pins
4.5 mm ride height.

Rear:
stock center spring with 40 weight oil,
batteries all the way to the back,
stock flex plates with short mounting position,
10000 weight oil in damper tubes,
1 mm of pod droop and
4.5 mm ride height.

Lilac Spec tires front and rear
cut to 2.100 for carpet and 2.250 for asphalt
C6 Corvette body.


so there are just a couple open questions remaining:

Which of 3 front shock mount positions. from the overall shock length in the kit, the aft position would work is this the preferred starting point?

with 40 wt oil is that with the 2 or 3 hole shock piston?

how much glue for the tires, is this a common practice like with 1/12 scale foams? do you recommend just a bead to cover the foam/wheel joint or up the sidewall?

thanks a bunch for the help with this.
You want to use the short shock mounting position and the 2 hole piston. No glue on the tires either.
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