R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-24-2009, 07:06 PM   #916
Tech Master
 
rcgen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 1,069
Default

Will the lipo chassis have the battery inline or in the 4cell config or both? I figure with inline and weighted tray will give tuning options when moving that pack forward or back.
rcgen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2009, 12:36 AM   #917
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,186
Default

Well in our local race BMI claims yet another win with our small young WGT class...And again it was a new BMI that hadn't even seen the track yet Mine With double pinks on all 4 corners and the Mulsanne body my car was just glued to the track! Now if only I can calm down and drive my 1/12th as well as I drove my WGT.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2009, 06:04 PM   #918
Tech Master
 
rcgen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 1,069
Default

Can you convert the 1/12 to a 1/10 version or is there a conversion kit available?
rcgen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2009, 08:39 AM   #919
V12
Tech Elite
 
V12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,641
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Thatīs what I have thought also about. I had used my DB12RR just for two races when the 1/12th scale racing season had just finished here and Iīm not sure if I will race 1/12th scale again next winter.
I think of trying world gt and easiest would be converting the DB12RR to a DB10RR then. It seems to me complete rear pod including the flexplates, pivots and tubes are the same also most of the front suspension, also steering assembly and servo mount could be used. So you should need just the main chassis, batteryplate and the body mount wings and a rear axle assembly.

We have different rules here with world gt as we use 2 cell lipos only but as our stick type lipos are much better than the saddle pack versions everybody uses inline position also like the CRC.

Itīs interesting to me also if there will be a different chassis for lipo only, maybe optimized for inline battery position also. I personally donīt like using tape for fixing batteries so I have to make my own battery mount system. But it seems to me there are too much chassis cutouts at the original DB10RR chassis for using additional screw holes for this. Maybe a chassis version with just less cutouts would be useful here.
V12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2009, 08:48 PM   #920
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 143
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Hey Jason, do the side flex plates come in different lengths if so what is the part number. The reason I ask is because my friend has a DB10R and so do I but he broke one of his flex plates and I let him have a set of spares I had (I was not able to make the race so was not there when he attemted to change them out) and he called me after he had picked them up from me said they did not fit his car. I know the come in different thicknesses but was not aware of different lenghts.
BIGBOT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2009, 10:01 PM   #921
Tech Master
 
wingman2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tewkesbury, UK via Plymouth, UK.
Posts: 1,259
Default

I have been running my BMI car for a while now, although it has a problem through long, sweeper type corners that I hope someone can help me out with. The car really struggles to hold a smooth line around that type of corner. It's not sliding at all, it seems to turn in, then the chassis kind of wants to go straight on, even though the steering is still held over, then grip again, then want to go straight on again. This happens very quickly through out the whole corner and although I have tried changing some of the settings on the car, and use differant grade tyres, it still happens! I hope you understand what I am trying to describe and that someone has an idea on how to fix it. The rest of the track is sorted, just this type of corner. All the best, Chris.
wingman2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2009, 12:31 AM   #922
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,838
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGBOT View Post
Hey Jason, do the side flex plates come in different lengths if so what is the part number. The reason I ask is because my friend has a DB10R and so do I but he broke one of his flex plates and I let him have a set of spares I had (I was not able to make the race so was not there when he attemted to change them out) and he called me after he had picked them up from me said they did not fit his car. I know the come in different thicknesses but was not aware of different lenghts.
We added the 2nd set of holes to the flex plates for the latest batches of
10R's. They will git the newer and older cars as the front hole location is the old hole location on the 10R the longest mounting position was an added adjustment. The flex plates will work fine.
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2009, 12:33 AM   #923
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,838
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
I have been running my BMI car for a while now, although it has a problem through long, sweeper type corners that I hope someone can help me out with. The car really struggles to hold a smooth line around that type of corner. It's not sliding at all, it seems to turn in, then the chassis kind of wants to go straight on, even though the steering is still held over, then grip again, then want to go straight on again. This happens very quickly through out the whole corner and although I have tried changing some of the settings on the car, and use differant grade tyres, it still happens! I hope you understand what I am trying to describe and that someone has an idea on how to fix it. The rest of the track is sorted, just this type of corner. All the best, Chris.
I know exactly what you are talking about buddy. That is what i normally call double steer. Usually what causes this is if your tires are too tall, too light of side dampening or front king pin dampening, of too little camber in the front. Post your setup for me and i will give you some suggestions.
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2009, 07:20 AM   #924
Tech Master
 
wingman2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tewkesbury, UK via Plymouth, UK.
Posts: 1,259
Default

Hi mate, thanks for your swift reply! Have been running CRC 'spec' tyres with around 4mm ride height. Front tyres run flat for camber, both white washers are forward for castor with stiff BMI front springs. Cells are in the forward position. Standard centre spring with 30wt oil. Corally diff grease in the damper tubes (reasonably hard damping). Been running a 9x2 with a Corvette b'shell. The car carries LOADS of corner speed, so much so that I have to be careful not to t-bone my fellow drivers as we enter corners racing for position! Looking forward to reading ideas on how to sort out the 'double steering' problem and then it'll be 100% sorted! Cheers pal, Chris.
wingman2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2009, 09:21 AM   #925
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,838
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
Hi mate, thanks for your swift reply! Have been running CRC 'spec' tyres with around 4mm ride height. Front tyres run flat for camber, both white washers are forward for castor with stiff BMI front springs. Cells are in the forward position. Standard centre spring with 30wt oil. Corally diff grease in the damper tubes (reasonably hard damping). Been running a 9x2 with a Corvette b'shell. The car carries LOADS of corner speed, so much so that I have to be careful not to t-bone my fellow drivers as we enter corners racing for position! Looking forward to reading ideas on how to sort out the 'double steering' problem and then it'll be 100% sorted! Cheers pal, Chris.
I run my camber at 2 degrees as the car likes more camber than a 1/12th car. I run the 0 degree caster blocks and run 6 degrees of caster(both shims to the back) I run my batts all the way back and i use 15000 wt in the tubes. The shock and oil sound good. I use the BMI .022 front springs(kit springs) and 10000 oil on the kingpins. 4mm ride height all around with the pod level. The car is silky smooth and corners like an animal. This is very similar to Jason Schrefflers setup that he took a podium finish with at the Snowbird Nationals. It works really well.
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2009, 02:37 PM   #926
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 900
Default

Wingman, I am going to assume that you are running CS High on our usual GT carpet, and the Corvette is a Protoform C6. I am also going to take my life in my hands and disagree with the boss!

Your car is too lightly damped - all round. As Protc3 says, you need to sort that out. Also, your front end is not giving you progressive increase in mechanical grip, due to insufficient caster. Placing the batts forward is always a bad thing if you're looking for progressive steering, traction and corner speed. Too many people use it to compensate for an incorrect front-end set-up!

If you're running the R, then try using the thin L plates in the rear, and 5deg castor blocks with the middle castor setting (one washer either side). Make sure that the front springs are not pre-loaded, and yet have no play. The diff grease is not good for damping in tubes. Switch to 5000 in the side tubes and the front king pins for our additive. I find anything above 7000wt does not allow the car to return after a corner, compromising traction. Lastly, try getting hold of a Tamiya 'pink' touring car spring for the centre, it gives better weight transfer into the corner.

I haven't tried the 0deg dynamic/6deg static combination, but since the Boss mentions it...

HTH
SlowerOne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2009, 03:55 PM   #927
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,838
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
Wingman, I am going to assume that you are running CS High on our usual GT carpet, and the Corvette is a Protoform C6. I am also going to take my life in my hands and disagree with the boss!

Your car is too lightly damped - all round. As Protc3 says, you need to sort that out. Also, your front end is not giving you progressive increase in mechanical grip, due to insufficient caster. Placing the batts forward is always a bad thing if you're looking for progressive steering, traction and corner speed. Too many people use it to compensate for an incorrect front-end set-up!

If you're running the R, then try using the thin L plates in the rear, and 5deg castor blocks with the middle castor setting (one washer either side). Make sure that the front springs are not pre-loaded, and yet have no play. The diff grease is not good for damping in tubes. Switch to 5000 in the side tubes and the front king pins for our additive. I find anything above 7000wt does not allow the car to return after a corner, compromising traction. Lastly, try getting hold of a Tamiya 'pink' touring car spring for the centre, it gives better weight transfer into the corner.

I haven't tried the 0deg dynamic/6deg static combination, but since the Boss mentions it...

HTH
No offense taken buddy. This is what i run on my car but in no way is it etched in stone. I have found that this car runs the best for me with no reactive castor. It actually increases overall steering the less i have. When i went to none at all the car seemed to have the most steering and was most predictable. I increased my side dampening to surelube #4 all around and found the balance of stability and good reaction from the car. I always run my batteries to the rear. The only time i run them forward is in low traction as odd as it sounds. It mellows the steering down and allows the car to stay on track without spinning out. I dont know about over there but over here on carpet i need to run my tires down at 2.100 front and rear and the car is super smooth. Larger than that makes the car very darty.
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2009, 08:17 PM   #928
Tech Master
 
wingman2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tewkesbury, UK via Plymouth, UK.
Posts: 1,259
Default

HIya guys, thanks for all the help, and although I am indeed a Brit, I am now living over here in the USA, just to throw that one into the mix!! So, although I have used CS Grip in the UK, I am now getting used to using the loverly Paragon but the problem has also existed. I did run the car with out of the packet tyres, which did not help with traction roll, and a couple of other things but now that the tyres are a reasonable size, only the 'double steering' problem continues. I think I will strip it down and try the things you both suggest, although one thing at a time!
wingman2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2009, 09:01 PM   #929
Tech Master
 
adamge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Saskatoon,SK Canada
Posts: 1,654
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
HIya guys, thanks for all the help, and although I am indeed a Brit, I am now living over here in the USA, just to throw that one into the mix!! So, although I have used CS Grip in the UK, I am now getting used to using the loverly Paragon but the problem has also existed. I did run the car with out of the packet tyres, which did not help with traction roll, and a couple of other things but now that the tyres are a reasonable size, only the 'double steering' problem continues. I think I will strip it down and try the things you both suggest, although one thing at a time!
You might want to update your rctech user location, as it stills shows UK.
__________________
When someone is intent on excelling in an otherwise laudable manner, does he not desire to inflict pain on others by means of his exalted status and enjoy the envy he arouses? Is there not an anticipated delight in an artist's ability to defeat his artistic rivals, which heightens his euphoria in creation?
-Nietzsche
adamge is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2009, 07:51 AM   #930
Tech Master
 
wingman2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tewkesbury, UK via Plymouth, UK.
Posts: 1,259
Default

Job done!
wingman2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
db10r for sale j manikis R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 19 06-25-2008 05:25 AM
BRAND NEW, never ran BMI DB10R 74VWTECH R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 6 06-24-2008 03:05 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:19 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net