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Old 10-23-2008, 08:24 PM   #631
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I am going to be making 1 more change to the car. I have developed a pod droop adjuster that allows you to adjust the pod droop with 1 set screw instead of using the shocks overall length. This makes setting pod droop so much easier and very similar to how it is done on a TC.
Hey Jason, how is this done?
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Old 10-23-2008, 08:42 PM   #632
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Hey Jason, how is this done?
How about i just buy your "old car" Jaybee? You can order the new one! $50.00?

Great looking car Jason... Might have to sell the AE car and get one.

Kody
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Old 10-23-2008, 09:45 PM   #633
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How about i just buy your "old car" Jaybee? You can order the new one! $50.00?

Great looking car Jason... Might have to sell the AE car and get one.

Kody
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Only if you can pry it from my cold dead fingers

Just got done with the build; now for the electronics.
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Old 10-25-2008, 01:52 AM   #634
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Default ALL DONE!!!.....well, kind of......

Only thing left is that pesky transponder

Enjoy!! BTW, what's the rollout for a 13.5 on a 100'x60' track?











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Old 10-25-2008, 04:27 AM   #635
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Very nice dude!! Isnt it nice to not have a big mess of wires on the car? Just another reason i really like this electronics layout. I have seen alot of pictures of other cars and the wiring is extremely difficult to make neat because of the layout on other cars. This one makes it simple to be neat.

Not to mention the performance increase
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Old 10-25-2008, 09:51 AM   #636
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Thanks alot brah....I gotta give this hussie a whirl this weekend
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Old 10-25-2008, 08:19 PM   #637
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I need some help tonight if possible. I am at the HobbyPlex in Omaha and I purchased a DB10R from one of the local guys and raced it today. It is a blast but I am having trouble lifting the inside front wheel and sometimes bicyling. I am not too sure about the set up because today is the first time I have even seen a DB10R. I think the front tires are double pink and I was thinking about changeing to white. I did buy an new set of spec tires today but I have not turned them down yet and assume they would not be competitieve with the other tires.

I am thinking:
Harder front tires
Harder front springs
Smaller diameter front tires
Would moving the battery forward or back help?
I have CA'ed the sidewalls

Please give me some suggestions on how to handle this situation.

Thanks
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Old 10-25-2008, 08:38 PM   #638
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I need some help tonight if possible. I am at the HobbyPlex in Omaha and I purchased a DB10R from one of the local guys and raced it today. It is a blast but I am having trouble lifting the inside front wheel and sometimes bicyling. I am not too sure about the set up because today is the first time I have even seen a DB10R. I think the front tires are double pink and I was thinking about changeing to white. I did buy an new set of spec tires today but I have not turned them down yet and assume they would not be competitieve with the other tires.

I am thinking:
Harder front tires
Harder front springs
Smaller diameter front tires
Would moving the battery forward or back help?
I have CA'ed the sidewalls

Please give me some suggestions on how to handle this situation.

Thanks
I think moving the battery forward would help, also what damper tube lube are you running?
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Old 10-25-2008, 09:13 PM   #639
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I think moving the battery forward would help, also what damper tube lube are you running?
The tubes had some really stiff stuff in them. I put the tubes off of my DB12 on it with some light crc fluid and that made it worse. It seems like the stiffer fluid helps mask the problem but I need to address the root cause of the problem.
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Old 10-25-2008, 10:12 PM   #640
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what diameter are the tires?
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Old 10-26-2008, 05:38 AM   #641
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If the front wheel is lifting, then the rear is rolling too much. Usually the reason for this is because the pod is tilted forward at ride height. Make sure that the pod is level when at ride hieght. You want to set the ride height with the axle cams instead of the shock collar.
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Old 10-26-2008, 06:06 PM   #642
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If the front wheel is lifting, then the rear is rolling too much. Usually the reason for this is because the pod is tilted forward at ride height. Make sure that the pod is level when at ride hieght. You want to set the ride height with the axle cams instead of the shock collar.
By the time I got your suggestion I had already made the change you describe. And yes, I can confirm that your are correct.

Thanks
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Old 10-26-2008, 06:10 PM   #643
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Thats great to hear buddy. Im glad you got things sorted out.
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Old 10-26-2008, 06:10 PM   #644
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A couple more questions:

1) what location do you recommend for battery placement and what is the effect of moving it forward or back?

2) what should I do to get the car to change direction faster?

3) what do you recommend for tube lube and what is the effect of heavier and lighter oil?

4) what oil do you recommend for the center shock?

I am running on carpet and would like to try to run Lilac front and rear. Tires are all 2.150 now.
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Old 10-26-2008, 06:16 PM   #645
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A couple more questions:

1) what location do you recommend for battery placement and what is the effect of moving it forward or back?

2) what should I do to get the car to change direction faster?

3) what do you recommend for tube lube and what is the effect of heavier and lighter oil?

4) what oil do you recommend for the center shock?

I am running on carpet and would like to try to run Lilac front and rear. Tires are all 2.150 now.
I start all the way back with the cells. I move them forward a little at a time if the car is a little on edge until it calms down. I also move them forward if the car is wanting to traction roll.

Its hard to say on what changes to make unless i know your setup. Post it here and i will see what i can find.

I recomend starting with 7000-10,000 wt. oil in the tubes and 5000 wt on the kingpins. Thicker oil in the tubes will increase steering by pushing the outside front wheel to the ground harder. Lighter will allow the flex plate to absorb more of the load. You know when you went too stiff if the inside rear wheel lifts in the corner and you are too light if the car is double steering. Front kingpin lube keeps the front end in check. The front end usually wants to react alot quicker than the rear and this makes the car feel darty.

I run 35 - 40 wt .in the center shock
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