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Old 08-07-2008, 03:28 PM   #481
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Hello, the car uses 1/10 pan wheels, just about all the same companies that do 12th scale also do 10th wheels. No the car does not come with wheels. I am using double pink rear and purple front. I think that is a good starting point, if you need more steering you may want to use pink or double pink fronts. Hope this helps.

Thanks mate , very helpfull
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Old 08-07-2008, 04:42 PM   #482
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What's a good online store that stocks pan car parts such as tires , wheels etc .

I'm in Australia so all my ordering will be done online
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Old 08-07-2008, 07:12 PM   #483
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We will be carrying 1/10th pan car foams shortly. We fully support our 1/10th and 1/12th pan cars and usually have anything and everything in stock at all times.
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Old 08-08-2008, 10:40 PM   #484
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Ok Jason i have a few more newby questions for you so sit back

Now i will be ordering the car from Stormer / or from your store and because of the high shipping costs to Australia i would like to get everything i need at the same time.

Tires were recommended in my last post for medium / high grip smooth asphalt , double pinks all around or maybe purple front what brands are these ?

You recommended box set up for most tracks . Now what do i do when i need to make a change ( no one down here runs these so i will be on my own with set ups ).
Is this explained in the manual ?

I have read the whole thread and keep seeing terms like roll out , tire sizes and dampener lubes ? Does the manual explain how to adjust these things and what the change does .

I will be running a CC sidewinder esc with my MM 5700kv motor with maxamps saddle packs , could you recommend a spur size and pinion range i could start with in 48p. I have added pics of the track so you can see it's size .Was just re surfaced and just got the lines painted , still needs the curbing done
Pros in mod touring get around the track in 15sec .

Lastly how far off is the lipo tray ?
What spares should i get for the car that are likely to brake in a smash , remember i'm a newby with pan cars
If it's not far off i'll order the car from you with the tray and spares and get all other accessories from Stormer or wherever else i can get wheels , tires ect .

think thats' it , also have to say that your responses to questions and support on this forum is the reason i am going with your car and it's lipo friendly . I order all my gear from the US
and find support is the no 1 concern which you have been great wth . Keep up the great work with the car , hope it's very succefull and looking forward to running one down under

Pics of the track first looking right of the drivers stand and second looking left
Attached Thumbnails
BMI DB10R!!!-track.jpg   BMI DB10R!!!-track3.jpg  
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Old 08-09-2008, 04:10 AM   #485
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Originally Posted by ffactory666 View Post
Ok Jason i have a few more newby questions for you so sit back

Now i will be ordering the car from Stormer / or from your store and because of the high shipping costs to Australia i would like to get everything i need at the same time.

Tires were recommended in my last post for medium / high grip smooth asphalt , double pinks all around or maybe purple front what brands are these ?

You recommended box set up for most tracks . Now what do i do when i need to make a change ( no one down here runs these so i will be on my own with set ups ).
Is this explained in the manual ?

I have read the whole thread and keep seeing terms like roll out , tire sizes and dampener lubes ? Does the manual explain how to adjust these things and what the change does .

I will be running a CC sidewinder esc with my MM 5700kv motor with maxamps saddle packs , could you recommend a spur size and pinion range i could start with in 48p. I have added pics of the track so you can see it's size .Was just re surfaced and just got the lines painted , still needs the curbing done
Pros in mod touring get around the track in 15sec .

Lastly how far off is the lipo tray ?
What spares should i get for the car that are likely to brake in a smash , remember i'm a newby with pan cars
If it's not far off i'll order the car from you with the tray and spares and get all other accessories from Stormer or wherever else i can get wheels , tires ect .

think thats' it , also have to say that your responses to questions and support on this forum is the reason i am going with your car and it's lipo friendly . I order all my gear from the US
and find support is the no 1 concern which you have been great wth . Keep up the great work with the car , hope it's very succefull and looking forward to running one down under

Pics of the track first looking right of the drivers stand and second looking left

Hey Buddy,

Thanks for choosing BMI.

I will have the Jaco 1/10th tires in stock this week if all goes according to plan. I am not familiar with the 48 pitch spur diameters so i will find that out for you. A 74/24 should be a good starting place though with a 2.100 rear tire. Some things are explained in the instructions but not all. If you need any info or help i can go over it with you on here if you like. I will have the lipo trays complete this week and then they will go out for anodize. Thank you for your support. If you need any more info please feel free to ask.

Thanks,
Jason
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Old 08-09-2008, 03:50 PM   #486
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Sweet ,
Looks like i'll wait a couple of weeks and order the car , lipo tray and wheels all together from you ,will you have a bumper ready by then also .
Could i put the order in now and when you have everything just post it out ?
Already have the perfect servo for it

What spares should i get that are likely to be needed when i smash should i get spare spings as well for tuning .

How do you work out roll out ?.
I'm guessing it has something to do with the tire diameter and how far the car moves with a revolution of the pinion .

All these questions and ordering info would you prefer i email you .

Cheers
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Old 08-09-2008, 05:11 PM   #487
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Sweet ,
Looks like i'll wait a couple of weeks and order the car , lipo tray and wheels all together from you ,will you have a bumper ready by then also .
Could i put the order in now and when you have everything just post it out ?
Already have the perfect servo for it

What spares should i get that are likely to be needed when i smash should i get spare spings as well for tuning .

How do you work out roll out ?.
I'm guessing it has something to do with the tire diameter and how far the car moves with a revolution of the pinion .

All these questions and ordering info would you prefer i email you .

Cheers
Thats cool. You can put in an order now and we will get it shipped out as soon as possible.

I usually carry a set or 2 of flex plates,pivot ball housings and a center pivot to be safe. The car doesnt break very easily.

Roll out is actually pretty simple. tire diameter x 3.14= circumference,then you take spur divided by your pinion=final drive.then its circumference divided by final drive = rollout.
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Old 08-09-2008, 06:40 PM   #488
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email sent
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Old 08-10-2008, 01:37 PM   #489
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Ffactory666, sorry I did leave the brand of tire out. I'm using Jaco tires which I believe are what Jason is going to carry.

Race report:

First race for the pan car class at The Hobby Shop last night. There were only four cars, but it looks like the class will grow. There was my BMI, a Tamiya F103gt, Speedmerchant Speed spec, and an Associated rc10L2ss I think it was. My car ran great right from the start but about halfway through the first qualifier on left hand turns it wanted to try and swap ends on me. After the run I looked the car over and thought it might have been body rub. I trimmed the body and went out for the second round. The F103gt set the early TQ but never did come back out the rest of the night. I started the secound round and was running well but the left had hook came back again. I finished second to the Speed spec. Third round, now it is dark, lights turned on on the track(outdoor asphalt). I had made no changes to the car not being able to find what was cuasing the hooking problem, but did find if I stayed on power it would run much smoother. Car was incredibly fast, seemed to be way faster than before. It must have been the perception from the lights as everyone else said it seemed that their cars were faster also. My loaner transponder was not working correctly this round, but the race director said going by how the second place car finished I had set TQ. Again I made no changes to the car as I was getting more comfortable with managing my speed to keep it from hooking. The order was BMI, Speedmerchant, Associated, Tamiya(DNS). I jumped out from the start and never looked back. The car is just so smooth it just begs you to run faster. The most work I had with the car all night was when I was trying to put a lap on second place. The Speedmerchant was running great but he was a little undergeared and I blew by him on the straight. I finished first one lap up on second. It was a great night of racing and I have pics that I will download later. Thanks Jason for a great car and I hope to continue to do the BMI team proud.
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Old 08-10-2008, 02:05 PM   #490
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Thats great to hear buddy. There are a few things to check on the car for that tweaked feel. 1 is to check that the servo saver is centered in the car and that the turnbuckles are both identicle lengths. 2nd thing i would do is back off on the set screws in the flex plates about 1/8 turn. I also run the batteries in the rear. Make sure that your rear axle is centered properly also.
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Old 08-10-2008, 02:43 PM   #491
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Thanks Jason, I made sure the servo saver was centered and tie rods were equal when I put the servo in. I have the set screws backed way out so that they shouldn't come into play. I did notice though that the right rear of the chassis, right in front of the right rear tire is scratched up. That is what was causing the hook, but I don't know why that side was hitting. I had a 5mm ride height all around on the car. Something I did deviate on was the lube in the rear tubes. I couldn't find what was recommended in there so I put 3000wt oil in them. I have since found out that was way too light, but the car ran like it was on rails the first time I drove it. That was with a Protoform Lola and now I'm running a HPI Trans Am. Could be the height of the body making a difference. What do you think?
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Old 08-10-2008, 03:17 PM   #492
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If the chassis is touching down,that will make things a little funky. Make sure the pod is level at ride height and that you have about 1mm of pod droop or uptravel. Then try about 7000-10000wt in the tubes to keep the rear a little flatter.
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Old 08-10-2008, 06:43 PM   #493
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Default 08/09/08 first pan car race @ The Hobby Shop

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/c...r-20/DB10R.jpg
http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/c...0/SANY0039.jpg
http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/c...0/SANY0040.jpg
http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/c...0/SANY0050.jpg
http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/c.../Speedspec.jpg
http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/c...Associated.jpg
http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/c...0/SANY0052.jpg
http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/c.../Thewinner.jpg

The next to the last pic is of the Tamiya car. I forgot to rename that one.
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Old 08-10-2008, 07:02 PM   #494
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Great pics dude. If you cant get the looping figured out, send the car to me with the electronics and i will give it a once over and get it figured out for you. It should only take me a short time. I can usually send it back the same day it comes in.
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Old 08-10-2008, 07:46 PM   #495
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Thanks Jason, I'm gonna try the thicker oil in the tubes and the other suggestions you made and see what happens. Thanks for the offer, hopefully I wont have to take you up on it. I'll be sure to keep you updated on what happens. Thanks again for a great car.
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