chicky03

iTrader: (1)

Here is my report and setup from the Snowbirds. If you have any questions let me know.

http://www.serpent.com/news/12639/Ci...Snowbirds.html

Paul

Mr Granone

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Paul this is very helpful.

Hey unrelated to setup. Has anyone received a rear hub that was not square? I just received parts for a spare diff. The axle and spline are square (checked with a micrometer). However the diff hub is not square at all. I checked both diff ring and wheel mount sides to find that the wheel mount side if off. This caused the rear wheel to wobble. There is a .5mm slope in the face of the wheel side. Not something I would expect from a new part. Can anyone confirm they have seem the issue?

amuse

iTrader: (7)

hi guys, i am just about to put the finishing touch to my S120, it's not a smooth sailing during the built, but it isnt that bad. i have a couple of questions for you guys which i've notice of the car at this stage.

wrapping batteries - i notice that (view from the back) cells on the inner right is very close to the metal adjust thingy that holds to 2 thingy that press against the t-plate. the gap is so small that i dont think the strapping tape could squeeze through. the left side have a little wider gap. is this normal for all S120?

thrust bearing - i've notice the different size inner hole for the 2 grooved washer, the smaller of the 2 got as far as the threaded part of the axle. how did you guys solve this or am i the only one with a wrong part? so until i get the new washer, i found out the L4 axle and diff works in the S120, so i am using that for now.

spring bar thingy - anyone broke theirs? i snapped one of them TWICE, now it's sits right into the block that holds it until replacement comes in.

sorry for the long post, and thank you for the help

wilson

Julius

Wrapping: If you havent filed the battery slots yet... You can bevel the slots for the battery so they sit a bit lower. If you bevel only the outer edges of the slots the cells will move slightly outward. That makes the tape go through a bit easier. It'll work fine as is though. Justuse thin tape

The smaller ring may touch the axe that is supposed to be like that. I did assmeble the diff in a different order that I feel might give a smoother diff. In stead of putting the 2 coned washers btween the nut and the thrust bearing, I put them between the orange alu part and the bearing. Don;t know why but it feels better to me. Might help you with your clearance issue too.

The t-bar spring blades have had a dodgy production run. If they are scribed on the rounded side theuy are very prone to break. I believe you can get a replacement though your local distributer.

amuse

iTrader: (7)

thanks Julius, i did file the slot, and the cell sits even with the bottom of the chassis. cant just file one side of the slot now or else the cell would be on the carpet

i'll give you diff method a try and see if that would solve my problem. but man, those spring blade are fragile, i am surprise it didnt break during shipping. when i broke mine, i wasnt applying too much pressure.

Julius

The correct blades are not fragile at all. Just the seies that has the marks etched on the wrong side....

John_S

so whos all going to the euros?

amuse

iTrader: (7)

so i got to try my freshly built S120 yesterday, and the only word i have is WOW!

straight out of the box with default setting, it feels good, not much change needed. and it so easy to drive even with my Novak AM receiver (dont ask!) in there which it doesnt hold centre too well.

i still need more time to bond with the car to know exactly what is good and not, but i am loving every bit of it.

thank you guys for all your info, all the info is top notch advice.

so now i am waiting for my new body post and that spring blade to arrive. ya, broke the body post during the last pack testing yesterday.

EVILGRAFX

iTrader: (37)

Those body posts are trick looking but, very brittle. I swapped mine out for a standard pair of body posts and haven't had any problems since.

amuse

iTrader: (7)

what did you replace with?

EVILGRAFX

iTrader: (37)

Associated, CRC, BMI, Speed Merchant, they're all basically the same. I think it's a softer, more dense plastic that's just less likely to break. I did leave the Serpent posts on the rear mounts, they take less abuse.

Bob-Stormer

iTrader: (8)

Well... Here's our take on how to change an s120.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...onversion.html

Arno

iTrader: (4)

serpentamerica

CARPET NATS

Congrats to Brian Race, TQ in the Super Stock Class. Way to go!

Congrats to Paul Ciccarello, he finished 3rd in both Super Stock and Mod class.

Congrats to DJ Apolaro for making the A in the Mod class

Thanks for your support guys

Pete720

iTrader: (33)

Hey there fellas. I am an avid racer of 10th scale nitro touring but wanted to try a new class and decided on 12th scale. A good friend of mine built a Serpent S120, never raced it and sold it to me ready to race cheap as dirt since he saw I was interested in 12th scale. The question I have is on the slipper clutch. It seems to be VERY loose. None of the literature that came with the car says any starting setting so I was wondering what a good starting point for it would be (ie. 1 1/2 turns out from tight, 2 turns out ect.) The car has a Trinity Chameleon Pro 19 turn motor with 4 3800mah matched cells. Also can any of you offer a starting point setup for the car itself for asphalt? That is where it will primarily be run this year until carpet time in the winter. Thank you in advance for opinions and expertise.