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Old 01-26-2009, 11:52 AM   #661
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The only answer I am interested from Serpent is YES or NO?
If I owned one, the only answer I'd be interested in would be YES... I know the jury is still out for many people on whether the brushless pods matter, but I'd want it.

For what it's worth, I built my FF07 with the standard pod, and I thought everything was fine. I got the brushless offset pod, and it did make the car better. There had been a slight pull to the right ono exiting a corner that went away with the balanced pod. It was slight, hard to notice even, until it was gone...
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Old 01-26-2009, 12:19 PM   #662
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If I owned one, the only answer I'd be interested in would be YES... I know the jury is still out for many people on whether the brushless pods matter, but I'd want it.

For what it's worth, I built my FF07 with the standard pod, and I thought everything was fine. I got the brushless offset pod, and it did make the car better. There had been a slight pull to the right ono exiting a corner that went away with the balanced pod. It was slight, hard to notice even, until it was gone...
Same thing I'm hearing from the GenX and BMI people. The car was good, new pod and it's considerably better.
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Old 01-26-2009, 03:23 PM   #663
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If I owned one, the only answer I'd be interested in would be YES... I know the jury is still out for many people on whether the brushless pods matter, but I'd want it.

For what it's worth, I built my FF07 with the standard pod, and I thought everything was fine. I got the brushless offset pod, and it did make the car better. There had been a slight pull to the right ono exiting a corner that went away with the balanced pod. It was slight, hard to notice even, until it was gone...
We found the same thing with the OD12. There was nothing wrong with the old car, it felt fine. We built a few cars with motor boxes balanced for brushless motors and could tell the difference right away. Its not a big difference, but its there
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Old 01-26-2009, 04:11 PM   #664
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I have noticed the difference in the 12R5 at my local track also. The difference is not vast but it was worth 1/10th to the local top driver.

To myself however I find that making a clean run is more an issue then the balance of the rear pod. My S120 gets here this week and I am very excited about it.
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Old 01-26-2009, 05:18 PM   #665
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Agreed. I just did the math and on my typical five crash run I'd need four and a half balanced pods just to break even...
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Old 01-26-2009, 05:43 PM   #666
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You are correct. Serpent updated the T bar by eliminating the counter sink which makes the T bar stronger but they did not include any button head screws.

I just ordered some of these and they worked great!!!

http://www.fastener-express.com/inde...OD&ProdID=2153
Did you have to make any modifications to holes on the chassis to use the screws?

Last edited by kobiwan; 01-26-2009 at 08:13 PM.
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Old 01-26-2009, 10:40 PM   #667
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Did you have to make any modifications to holes on the chassis to use the screws?
Yes. Just drill out the existing holes in the chassis just big enough so the button head screws do not touch when the T bar moves from side to side.
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Old 01-27-2009, 06:05 AM   #668
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Yes. Just drill out the existing holes in the chassis just big enough so the button head screws do not touch when the T bar moves from side to side.

Did you use a certain size drill bit, or did you just use a dremel or something like that to open up the holes?
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Old 01-27-2009, 06:10 AM   #669
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Any word yet on when Serpent America will have the proper diameter kingpins for sale? I've paid alot of money for a high end kit and I would like to be able to use the kits pivot balls instead of AE pivot balls.
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Old 01-27-2009, 09:15 PM   #670
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Did you use a certain size drill bit, or did you just use a dremel or something like that to open up the holes?
I used a drill bit at high speed. Do not drill all the way through the existing hole. Only drill half way. Then turn the chassis over and drill through the other side all the way through the hole. This prevents splintering and delaminating of the chassis. Make the hole only big enough so that the button head on the screw does not hit the chassis.
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Old 01-28-2009, 11:22 AM   #671
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I've started building my 120 and I have a question. The assembly of the front end shows the shoulder of the pivot ball facing up in one picture and down in another. What is the proper orientation of the pivot ball?

Carbon Joe - What degree caster blocks did Paul put on your car? 3 degrees or 6 degrees?
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Old 01-28-2009, 12:08 PM   #672
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my kit came with hard coated pivot balls for the lower front arms. the kingpins in the kit were the type with the flats on the bottom and these kingpins were too big to fit in the pivot balls. but I also got some replacement kingpins (the newer style that use an allen wrench in the end rather than the flats). these replacement kingpins fit perfect in the hard coated pivot balls.

also.....my kit came with slider beams that have little ridges machined on the bottom side. BE CAREFUL. these slider beams snap VERY EASILY since the cut in ridges make them VERY WEAK. the newer slider beams have lines etched on the top rather than ridges cut into the bottom. probably they are stronger.

i suggest that these new and improved parts be included in the kits. and if your kit didn't come with them.....probably you'll be needing them anyway.
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Old 01-28-2009, 04:53 PM   #673
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I've started building my 120 and I have a question. The assembly of the front end shows the shoulder of the pivot ball facing up in one picture and down in another. What is the proper orientation of the pivot ball?

Carbon Joe - What degree caster blocks did Paul put on your car? 3 degrees or 6 degrees?
Fuzzy -

6 degrees.
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Old 01-28-2009, 06:12 PM   #674
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when using Jaco rear tires on this car, Do i need to use any shims to make width?
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Old 01-29-2009, 10:45 AM   #675
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ill assume you mean jaco prizms, if so then yes i run a 2.6mm wheel spacer on each side and this brings it pretty close to width
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