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Old 06-15-2008, 10:31 AM   #61
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The JS version also has all plastic bulks and that would not be cheap, if you where to convert a JS into RS or FS i think the carbon and aluminum alone cost more then a RS/FS kit does.

So, JS and if you feel to go better get a RS/FS and use JS as spare car, drift car, rain, ...

If you are at a high level and want to compete with Xray's and whatnot, buy RS/FS directly.
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Old 09-17-2008, 01:28 PM   #62
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Opinions please:

Good 4 Cell Vintage Trans Am platform maybe? Looks like it would be competitive.
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Old 09-18-2008, 02:57 PM   #63
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Opinions please:

Good 4 Cell Vintage Trans Am platform maybe? Looks like it would be competitive.
it should be very competative also great value
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Old 09-25-2008, 12:09 PM   #64
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it should be very competative also great value
Its at the post office today! I'll know in a few days what kind of basic chassis performance it has. I need to get the VTA rule body and tires, but plan on running the Novak 17.5 BL with GTB ESC combo with 4 cells. I'll get the electronic gear loaded up and throw on my spare Impreza body just to give it a try. I'm anxious to find out how it works on the carpet at my local track.
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Old 10-01-2008, 01:51 PM   #65
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Its at the post office today! I'll know in a few days what kind of basic chassis performance it has. I need to get the VTA rule body and tires, but plan on running the Novak 17.5 BL with GTB ESC combo with 4 cells. I'll get the electronic gear loaded up and throw on my spare Impreza body just to give it a try. I'm anxious to find out how it works on the carpet at my local track.
I've put mine together, loaded up the GTB and SS17.5 Novak and immediately stripped the included Futaba servo horn when I touched the wall in the hallway of the house on the initial basic test! It took a couple minutes to dawn on me, but the horn doesn't quite fit my Hitec 625. Those metal gears made the horn nice and smooth on the inside.

The real news: The kit only comes with 2 styles of servo horn, Futaba and Airtronics. The one I need for a Hitec servo does not come with the kit. If you purchase this kit, as a precaution, order the servo saver for the chassis to match the servo you will be installing. The kit doesn't have an integrated servo saver anyway. The arm length of the kit servo horn is longer than the Kimbrough saver and the E4 servo saver matches the included servo horn length. This is peace of mind anyway, so a no brainer. They should be in tomorrow or the day after. Not bad for shipping from California to Wisconsin. The gents at the LHS want to see it run, take it for a spin... keep it for a while, or longer. It made some eyes pop, even if it doesn't steer at the moment.
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Old 10-20-2008, 09:01 AM   #66
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Update on the 2 E4JS cars.

The E4FS rear arms #503225, shifting the hub carrier shims and the 2.5 degree rear toe in puts the wheelbase at exactly 10 and hair inches. The new arms were 4 mm narrower so I had to use 2 x 2mm spacers on the rear hinge pins to complete the adjustment. The total shift was approximately 4.5 mm forward. The 3 degree rear blocks would probably put it perfect or even under. The HPI Camaro bodies look great on this car as will any other 10" (255 mm) wheelbase body. I need to figure out the ins and outs of the chassis now, but at least the look is right. Now I get to play with oil weight and springs as everything else is spec to the USVTA class rules. For anyone running 17.5 or 21.5 brushless, use 88, 90, 92 or 93 tooth spurs to nail your FDR. I'm running an 88/50 and have my cars at a 3.6 for my 17.5.
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Old 07-14-2009, 08:48 AM   #67
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Hey All you TM drivers. Really curious about this car and wondering if anyone out there is still using one?? If so, how's the experience been ? I've been reading nothing but good about Wolf Hobbies support of these cars. Any thoughts?? Feel free to give me the good aspects and the bad. If the bad is easily correctable then I might give the E4JS a try for VTA and RCGT. Thanks for any advice.
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