YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

What part is that front belt tensioner? I looked at the exploded view and can't find it there. Is it a Team Magic part? Or is it K-Factory?

wyd

iTrader: (51)

The rear beltensioner adjustment is thru the bottom of the chassis using I think a 1.5mm or 2.0mm driver. When you turn clockwise it will tighten the tensioner. When you adjust it you can watch it move in and out.

The front one is on the top of the chassis as posted in the pic by Pro10noob. Screw is on the right side. Just loosen it up and you can then lower the tensioner and then tighten once you have it where you want it.

The side one is right in front of the motor on the left side which I'm sure you see. Works like the front tensioner as you just loosen the screw and then lower the tensioner and then tighten the screw back up once you get the tension you are looking for.

I normally adjust each tensioner with no pinion gear on. I tighten each one until I feel it slowing up my drivetrain as I turn it by hand. That way I keep the belts as tight as possible without binding the drivetrain up. Always worked good for me doing it this way.

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

The one for the side belt you should have on your car but in plastic and the front one is from the E4RS or E4FS.
I don't know if they are stock on the E4JS
The front tensioner is a Team Magic part and the Alloy side tensioner is K-factory.

regards Roy

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

Thanks. The E4JS doesn't come with any tensioners on the front or the rear just the side. So I guess I'll be picking those up. Has anyone had any experience with the K-Factory ZF belts? Are they any better than the Team Magic PU belts?

Humyu

iTrader: (9)

Thanks so have to change the diff pulleys also hmmm. now i notice that my side belt is very loose even when i adjusted the side belt tension-er. i'm using the standard side belt. and it is very loose. beside the k factory side belts any other options? I saw that the e4rs does not use any belt tensioner but the belt is snug fit. any ideas

thnks

alsanico

Hello everybody.

I have been thinking of buying a E4 RS since we race on asphalt tracks.
I would like to ask:

1) if it is possible to change several parts so that the E4RS will have the same internal ratio as the E4FS model and which parts require changing.
2) Is it possible to change the spool pulley in order to use it with the E4FS internal ratio?

My question might have been asked before but it is difficult to read through 209 pages.

Thanks a lot for your time.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

1) YES....I think the FS ran the 18T little pulleys (inside front and rear) instead of the 17T for RS and your rear diff, front spool pulley is 1T less then the RS (34T?)...so total 2 little and 2 large pulleys.

2) That I am not sure the SPOOL pulley are able to be DETACHED from the rim.....your best choice is use a DIFF and made a limited slip spool, cheaper and better.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

You can use the HPI front belt for the Hot Bodies Cyclone as it works for the side belt.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXNZK9&P=ML

Humyu

iTrader: (9)

thnks wyd, is this belt the same as Hpi pro 3 belt?

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Yes, I went thru exactly what you did....the stock side belt will be very loose after some run time no matter how much tension you did on the side bearing pulley...your options are try to use the hotbody Cyclone belt OR buy the K-Facotry option belt...

The K-factory belt I had...almost another year run time with it, STILL very tight, my side belt tensioner only dropped like 2mm from the top position. It does tighten up the whole transmission alittle but for sure, no skipping sound.

I mean, since you are buying a side belt, buy the front and rear K-factory one...these 3 belts does erased all the skipping sound with minimum tensioning.

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

I've been debating over some time on the worthiness of these parts. They are to me some of the most expensive parts I've seen. Just wondering what your opinions are on whether these parts are "worth it" or not.

K2104


K2105

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

I got the top part on one of my cars.
I takes out the slop on the rear end but you can also use the Wolf Hobbies part that is cheaper.
It also ads 1.5 degrees more toe in when needed.
The other part i don't have.
On my other car i have all the alloy parts from Wolf and that one ahse a lot less slop in the suspension and wheels.
Now going to try the alloy wheelhubs that are used on the E4JS and hopefully all slop is gone.
If you want those K-Factory parts cheaper then they normally are then use a certain not to mention shop in Hong Kong

regards Roy

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Not sure if the Pro3 one is the same or not.

alsanico

@Solara
Thanks a lot for the quick reply. I have been browsing through the parts list of both cars and they seem to be using a different rear belt as well. I guess this should not be a problem since they have been replace by new Wider parts if I understood that right.

I am bit worried concerning the batteries since I use saddle pack batteries because I own an old car. I will test them on a friend's E4FS car and then decide about the purchase.

Is anybody aware whether TM will release a new car? I have seen a new E4D car on their site.

Humyu

iTrader: (9)

Will consider the K factory belts. Just that is a bit difficult to get it at my LHS. Think have to order. Thnks Solara