wyd

iTrader: (51)

I'm with both of you. My stock FS shocks worked flawlessly and no leaking. If I needed replacement shocks though I would use either the Tamiya which we all know are great or I would use the Schumacher shocks that come with the MI4 or MI 3.5. They are almost 100% identical to the Tamiya ones but with a thicker hard coating on the shocks.

05forfun

iTrader: (81)

Did anybody find that the E4RS's bottom chassis is not perfectly flat? I have both E4RS and E4JS, and every time I place droop blocks under the chassis to measure the droop on setup board, I always press on front/rear shock towers to make sure the chassis is evenly sit on the blocks. The E4JS shows no issues, but there is always a very small gap on the side between the chassis and blocks on E4RS, I need to move the block around to find places where chassis and block are completely parallel. Furthermore when I look at the chassis from front closely, I can notice that the left side is curved a little bit.

Isaac

iTrader: (5)

Never had that issue.

05forfun

iTrader: (81)

this issue doesn't really cause any problem, I can still setup the car pretty well. I am just curious about if it is because how TM design and cut the bottom chassis

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

I had the older E4LE version and those shocks were very difficult to work with. The threads were cut very fine and easily crossthreaded, the machining was rough, the sharp edges cut the bladders.

I had a set of Tamiya TRF shocks from an older car and moved them to the E4 along with the Tamiya lowered spring retainer so I could use the TM springs. Best thing I ever did to improve the car.

That being said, I understand that the new version shocks on the RS and FS outperform and is a much better quality than the older version. I used the Tamiyas because I had them and didn't feel like spending an extra $100 for TM shocks.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

That might have to do with the TWEAK because of the upper deck, the bulkhead and other connection to the mutliple parts...

Loosen up all the upper and lower screws and re-tighten them in cross pattern. 1st rule to fix tweak....

05forfun

iTrader: (81)

I didn't touch anything since the car out the factory box. Anyway, appreciate your advice, will try it for sure

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

I have a small request for you guys.
I am unable to get a hold of Wolfhobbies for some reason true e-mail and was wondering if any one could give them a call if they would e-mail me about the red alloy bulkheads they sell with the E4LE cars.
For me calling to the states from Holland would cost me a lot of money.
For some strange reason my e-mails won't get true to them.
I would be very happy if some one could do this for me.
Thanks allready for the help.

regards Roy.
Ps if they wan't my e-mail addies let them send me a PM so i can send one back

vinny73

iTrader: (24)

I got the newest version of the E4RS and it has the latest shocks on it. I just received my TM spring set that was posted a few days back. I will let you know how they fit.

Back to the reason for quoting... I noticed that in the manual the car came with it stated it was setup according to the setup sheet in the manual. Mine was far from it. It had so much tweak it wasn't even funny! Shock lengths were way off and the rest.... well you can guess. Even though this sucked, it wasn't all that bad. Only because I took it straight out to the track and ripped it. I was runnin on low traction asphalt, on a cool day. This particular track is known apparently for not having good traction during the winter. In the summer time, it's a whole different ballgame. I was told by a fellow racer/friend, to find a setup with low traction wet condition asphalt. There are 2 setup sheets on petitrc.com from the French Nationals that are wet condition.

The good thing about it being all out of whack was that it forced me to take it apart partially and inspect it, see how it's designed, how it works and then set it up. NOW I KNOW FOR SURE WHAT IT'S SETUP AT! And it's all written down. I picked up the Losi Shock building/adjusting tool so that will help out alot. Check your shock length in the front. Mine were like 3 or 4 mm different. Like 3 turns on the bottom callcup. So were the rears. After thinking about how long it would take to assemble and setup one of those cars, i figured it's too cheap in price to be built and spec sheet setup! Not every single one!!! I know it takes me a long time to set it up. I'm a rookie but if you start with a totally tweaked car, it would take most people a bit to find the problem and fix it.

My point, your observation of the tweaked chassis, IMO, could be the other wise suggestion as well. It wouldn't take long to loosen everything up and retorque it. And if that doesn't fix it, try mine. HTH, please keep us informed of your outcome. Vinny

vinny73

iTrader: (24)

I just got the car and only have the experience of driving a TC3 to compare to. But my understanding that the new shocks they have on the latest e4rs are pretty good. I just got the springs so we shall see this sunday how well they work. They'll probably work pretty good for a rookie driver but my understanding of how the car should work and what changes to start with if there are problems is pretty good.

I did order replacement rear and front arms for it and the ones I got from wolf are not like the ones I have on my car. the ones on my car have a metal shaft that runs the length of them . It's like it was molded in the plastic. I don't know why they sent me those. But they sure are lighter. But am afraid they won't be as durable. See, I have a tendency to hit stuff. As my buddies say, I'm still in driving school. I need to learn to drive in the center of the track 1st then learn to cut corners. Thanks for the info, we have a schumacher sponsored driver at our track and I can pick his brain on what he uses. Vinny

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

The arms with the metal tube in them aren't stronger, in fact that is where they break right at the tube. This could be why those have been discontinued in favor of the all composite arms. You think?

vinny73

iTrader: (24)

Okay, makes sense. I didn't know that those were the ones that were discontinued. Glad to know I didn't get old stock. Very new to this car so what's available is not totally within my knowledge database yet. Thanks for the insight! Vinny

katfish317

iTrader: (6)

The arms with the aluminum in them could also be bent slightly and you may not notice it after a wreck. I changed all mine over to the J arms on my car. Definitely worth it too me.

vinny73

iTrader: (24)

Okay, so those are the arms for a e4js model? Heck, what other parts swap over that are cheap? Actually sorry, cheaper....

Here's a pic of my new toy. Thinking of going with the lrp motor cause the sensor plug location is above the belts. Where as now with the Fantom Ion motor, its at the bottom. What a PITA to keep from rubbing the belts. Any suggestions? On the center of the topplate, is where I mount my receiver. Do you think I should mount the ESC there as well? Keep everything centered?

katfish317

iTrader: (6)

I also run the J cvd's all the way round also as the price is better if you break them and less play in the tire and axle when bolted together. I believe the J is lower in price due too no carbon fiber. I love this car alot, but parts prices are a little high. I have TC5R I race also and I have the TiR world's Cvd's and they are not as much as the stock ones for my E4rs. I have yet to break or bend one either. I have been emailing them aobut a possible part for the E4 and I think it may happen but not holding my breath. I would certainly buy them.