Shorty pack fits right across the chassis. So its weight would be centered. The motor is slightlyoffset so movin electrics around could get the balance without added ballast. The onlyreason this wouldnt work is the pullies sit insidethe chassis perimeter. Simply making new ones that have a longer core would push them outside and make room for the battery. Pullies weigh nothing.

You could still run longitudal or transverse np with the same pullies or back to stock.
The only thing that would concern me is roars requirement for a normal 2s to fit.

I wasn't even considering ROAR. The layout as it is can accommodate a standard pack but leaves little room for the steering assembly. I can't imagine that this design would go any further than a prototype or two just to see how it works. I'm curious if using a shorty pack like this would yield much benefit and I can breathe some new life into my old E4 parts bin.

I'll rearrange the layout to see how a multi-battery config. might be possible.

Thanks. I remember this now from a few posts back. I had issues with the battery retention. None of my lipos have the bumps. In fact I've never seen a Gens Ace pack with the bumps either. Anyways, its almost there. All you need are a few small graphite pieces to hold the battery in using the existing top deck.

What you need is a piece of graphite that screws onto the chassis on the belt side to keep the battery from going out side. Then on the electronics side you do what Exotek did with the TA-06.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7145/6...acef0077_z.jpg

You can also make another sub-plate holding the dual rack steering or cut holes for the dual rack steering on the lower chassis in front of the shorty pack and make another graphite retainer to hold the shorty pack from going front to back ala pan car (ie Speedmerchant or CRC). That way there's the option to run the shorty pack with the lower chassis mounted steering or standard 2s pack with the stock steering.

Give it a thought.:)

F/S E4's
 

Hi All
I have 2 x E4's plus 1 x E4rs with about $1000 of spares. Not able to race TC's
and need to get rid of these $220 plus post E-Mail for pictures
Cheers james

ah... jesus. thats tempting lol. though. ive barely delved into the dumpster sloe4 sent me... lol. wouldn't be bad to have another e4 for gtvta/bashing...

pics
 

Can i get pics to [email protected]

Having listened to many of you guys, I've started to simplify things a bit.
Here is a start that will address the dual bellcrank steering as well as bumpsteer.
It is a shorty pack conversion that will move a few things around but keep all the stuff related to the bulkheads and motor mount as they are.
Here is a list of new parts that will need to be added:
1) Chassis plate 2.5mm 75mm wide
2) Top deck 2.0mm (still pondering a bridge from front bulkheads to Steering posts)
3) Dual crank steering assembly
3) Strap down battery stay brackets.
4) Single point servo mount
5) CF rear belt side brace W/fan mount

so a strange question.. i wanna put together a car to run GT at our upcoming speedweekend. apparently no weight limit but i have to run a crappy tamiya silver can motor. competing with VTA cars running brushless ha.
what would be the LIGHTEST e4 to grab, or would i have to mishmash one together using parts from all the different models? im thinking the JS with the nylon parts would be better as nylon is much lighter than aluminum, poly shocks are lighter, aluminum drive shafts all around and all the cf bits? or maybe your conversion yodog if you could machine the bulkheads out of nylon or acetel to reduce their weight?
im not sure if its possible but i want to try to build a car with 1000gram rtr weight.
or if possible, WGT min weight.
shorty pack, 12th scale servo, lightweight spoked wheels lol. pointless project but should be fun.

fricken double post lol.

Shorty
 

Most people already have lots of hardcase standard length batteries. It would seem a little counterproductive to redesign the car to accept shortys. If you need to spend money for the conversion, then spend even more on shortys, what's the point? I don't know if it's ROAR legal with the short batteries.

there are lots of considerations here but i think cost is going to be a very big one. how many people are going to be willing to drop $150 on a conversion for a car you can get for $150? lol. "that if yodog or i put out a conversion, cost for us would be well over $100 lol.."
to optimize teh flex and layout the stuff better, it will require a new main chassis, upper chassis, probably motor mount and layshaft carrier and any other bits needed to do the flex thing.
the simplest thing is probably going to be an e4d style upper chassis with a lower chassis that doesn't have the big ass hole for battery removal. optional for me would be a new front shaft carrier, because the stock one seriously limits moving the battery forward which is what needs to happen to stop mangling those stupid side bulkheads we have to cut for lipo/brushless mounting.

i was thinking of doing a sort of 12th scale pod for the motor. would be semi rigid, but would require widening the chassis slightly to keep strength with a big ass hole where the motor is. it would be suspended between the buklheads and a middle bulkhead . this would be more brushless friendly, and lipo friendly. pecking at it slowly. still learning after all. im sure yodog has something epic on his board.

Well guys, If all we want to do is replace the stock chassis and leave everything else the same, I can do that. chassis plates will cost around $70 to make. In addition, if I change the top deck to move the pulley block to the top, we would need longer belts which will add about $15 for the 2 belts and about $20 for the deck. We can then move the steering assembly below and you would likely still have the option to use the TM single or dual bellcrank. This will improve the bumpsteer. It's true that there is little reason to add $150 to a car that's likely only worth $150 but it is unique and with all the improvements, even more so. I currently run a TC6 because I wanted to be competitive but I still have a desire to make my E4 better for the sake of self accomplishment.
I'm in no way concerned about being ROAR legal regarding the whole shorty pack issue. I just seemed like a novel way of making the E4 work it's best by being the narrowest chassis around and the best balanced to boot.

Just do it rick I'll be the first guy the get the chassis from I don't really giving the E4 another shot that's why I still have all 4 of them lol..

Hey guys. I just got the E4D MF Pro and I need a pinion gear. I'm not sure what tooth count to get. I'll be running a 9T ezrun combo.
Can anyone recommend a pinion gear tooth count for me?

Hey guys. I just got the E4D MF Pro and I need a pinion gear. I'm not sure what tooth count to get. I'll be running a 9T ezrun combo.
Can anyone recommend a pinion gear tooth count for me?