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usvta rules brian stipulate 4.2:1 as lowest FDR when using a 21.5/lipo combination (which most all do since the other formats are 4cell). that is with a novak 21.5 only. now ROAR crashed the party and says in their rules that any 21.5 is permitted since they supposedly cant marry their rules to 1 brand (i thought they loved bob ha).
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Originally Posted by ultegrasti
(Post 6158779)
usvta rules brian stipulate 4.2:1 as lowest FDR when using a 21.5/lipo combination (which most all do since the other formats are 4cell). that is with a novak 21.5 only. now ROAR crashed the party and says in their rules that any 21.5 is permitted since they supposedly cant marry their rules to 1 brand (i thought they loved bob ha).
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Originally Posted by rkhess
(Post 6157707)
I cleaned the bearings while they were in the car ...im lazy i know
AE springs blue/front green/rear ...tightened front diff down...moved rear shocks in one hole on tower.....stock shock oil 30wt?=300:blush:.... still messing with ride height its at 8-9mm:eek: right know ..but its handling so good...104spur 51pinion largest combo that will fit, 21.5 havok BL system,jr8800s servo,smc 24c 2s 4100mah lipo and i have a 5200mah for tracks that allow it ..esc fitts snug on chassis air vent and u have to remove a small brace to get motor in, very easy though ...had to trim foam bumper to fit the 'cuda body ...my belts feel fine just tightened the middle belt tensioner slightly to keep it from jumping teeth |
Originally Posted by wyd
(Post 6158728)
Looks great. If I do a VTA car I would go with the Cuda body as well. I think that is the main reason why I want to do a VTA car down the road.:D
I'm not up much on the VTA rules but do they make you run a certain overall gearing? I thought I saw that 4.21 is the ratio for this class but not 100% on that. I'm running more like 4.8 final. If you read the rules carefully is merely suggests a range that you are not supposed to exceed. Using an SPX or Tekin RS with timing boost is the trick, I gear for punch and don't worry much about top speed, and we have a 100 foot straightaway. The real trick is setting up for those tires.... Oh and the Camaro is the body of choice. |
Originally Posted by John St.Amant
(Post 6159623)
The maximum recommended gear is 4.2 final ratio.
I'm running more like 4.8 final. If you read the rules carefully is merely suggests a range that you are not supposed to exceed. Using an SPX or Tekin RS with timing boost is the trick, I gear for punch and don't worry much about top speed, and we have a 100 foot straightaway. The real trick is setting up for those tires.... Oh and the Camaro is the body of choice. |
Originally Posted by wyd
(Post 6159663)
No Hemi Cuda!!!!!!!:lol: I want maximum muscle from my muscle car.:lol: My dad had a 1967 Plymouth Hemi GTX. the 426 motor was rated at 425hp but my dads stock on the dyno with a good tune up was right at 500hp. Think car companies where trying to deceive the insurance companies a little bit.:D
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Originally Posted by John St.Amant
(Post 6159748)
One version of that Hemi in the Superbird and Daytona had almost 800hp in there . Pretty frickin' amazing huh !?
How does your E4 do running the VTA class? |
Originally Posted by slakr
(Post 6158359)
NP, Just trying to help. I have the E4JS and it is a pretty decent car for the $. I think I saw Marcos post that part number up one time, but personally... I haven't tried that belt yet.
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Originally Posted by wyd
(Post 6160084)
Very scary. Back in the mid 60's to real early 70's is when they built some killer muscle cars. I know my dad wishes he still had his Hemi thats for sure.
How does your E4 do running the VTA class? |
i have a problem with the side belt skipping. i have the tensioner right down. it doesnt skip then but wow what a stiff driveline. i was thinking about getting a wide belt that ive seen as a new option part. anyone try these??
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Originally Posted by eddie10
(Post 6161926)
i have a problem with the side belt skipping. i have the tensioner right down. it doesnt skip then but wow what a stiff driveline. i was thinking about getting a wide belt that ive seen as a new option part. anyone try these??
eddie -you may have worn a couple of teeth on the belt? might put ceramics in drive train... anybody else try it? |
Originally Posted by eddie10
(Post 6161926)
i have a problem with the side belt skipping. i have the tensioner right down. it doesnt skip then but wow what a stiff driveline. i was thinking about getting a wide belt that ive seen as a new option part. anyone try these??
I had thought one of mine was skipping to but it turned out that the rear diff was making a funny noise and slipping. If you make sure its not that and all of your pulley teeth are clean it may just be time for a new belt. Try either the new one from Wolf Hobbies or the HPI #748. The Diff makes king of a chirp noise when it skips. The belt tends to be more of a bump. Does this happen while driving ? Can you really hear it while on the track? Or are you loading it up in your hand? Curious.... |
Originally Posted by rkhess
(Post 6162414)
eddie -you may have worn a couple of teeth on the belt?
might put ceramics in drive train... anybody else try it? |
Hey John are you coming down to the ROAR Nationals at Frederick in October? If so I will more than likely catch you their. I for this Nationals I'm lucky it is so close as I'm still 85 miles or so away.:lol:
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Originally Posted by wyd
(Post 6164791)
Hey John are you coming down to the ROAR Nationals at Frederick in October? If so I will more than likely catch you their. I for this Nationals I'm lucky it is so close as I'm still 85 miles or so away.:lol:
I've not been traveling much lately BUT... I hope all my updating is done before then. Indoor ? Paved ? got any pics ? |
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