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Hey guys ran the e4 last weekend for the first time. Ran asphalt outdoor med grip, big sweeping track. I started with the kit setup and it felt soft and the backend wanted to kick out. so i put xray springs on stiffen it up a little. And added 1mm shim under the rear turnbuckle on the bulkhead to get some more traction. It somehow got crazy steering with the stiffer springs on the front. i am also running a r9 body. later guys
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E4 and top speed
Dear Socko, AreCee, rezenclowd3 and BritishMenace
RE: <<I am new to the E4 and I can not get the required top speed out of this car.>> Thanks for your help. I will not know until after the coming weekend if swapping Esc and Motor will do the trick. The same battery was used afterwards in a different car and made it to 2nd over all. I took the belts out and all seems to run very easy without the belts. Maybe they should put some chicane on the long straight ! I will let you know in a week’s time... Regards |
You fans of this car might be interested in some disinterested observations of this car's performance this past weekend at the Northwest Indoor Championship at Timezone 2.
Two chassis, one 13.5 rubber, and the other Mod foam, driven by a sponsored guy from out here. He squared off against a really fast and well driven X-Ray in rubber, and an X-Ray and an Associated in foam. Full fields in both, mind you, but these were the guys at the sharp end. The Team Magic took down both classes. I was particularly interested in the 13.5 rubber because the concern with the car has been the three belts and the presumed drivetrain drag. With mod one could always say that if there is more drag it's hard to tell given the insane power laid down. Not so in 13.5. But the car was superb, and didn't put the driver at any disadvantage. It looked quick and stable edge to edge through the infield, and consistent for five minutes. And believe me, these were good racers, and they were giving no quarter throughout quals and mains. It's a car to consider. It might be my next sedan. And it's not all uglied up with lead everywhere. Right underneath the battery seems to get it done. It has some fussy parts, but the layout is sound, and drag didn't seem to be a factor. Todd M. SIR |
I dont care what sedan you get, you just need to get one again!!!! LMAO
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Opinions on the JS edition, I really like this car layout but im on a budget and planning to run 10.5 or 19T... Where do you get parts for these cars on Internet??? What are the hop ups i'd need to keep the JS version running well??
Thanks in advance guys |
You can get parts for it at wolfhobbies.com.
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Originally Posted by PutAwayWet
(Post 5064045)
I was particularly interested in the 13.5 rubber because the concern with the car has been the three belts and the presumed drivetrain drag. With mod one could always say that if there is more drag it's hard to tell given the insane power laid down. Not so in 13.5. But the car was superb, and didn't put the driver at any disadvantage. It looked quick and stable edge to edge through the infield, and consistent for five minutes. And believe me, these were good racers, and they were giving no quarter throughout quals and mains. It's a car to consider. It might be my next sedan. And it's not all uglied up with lead everywhere. Right underneath the battery seems to get it done. It has some fussy parts, but the layout is sound, and drag didn't seem to be a factor. Todd M. SIR Mike |
Originally Posted by pinkpanther
(Post 5054407)
The deck brace i purchased must be for the original E4 and not The RS. I wonder where the brace on the car pictured a couple of pages back is from. I cant find anything on the KFactory website.
The Orion Vortex seems quite long as when is place it fouls on the chassis. At the front of the motor, although there is a bevel, one of the three screws fouls on the chassis restricting how you can orientate the motor. This is the same at the back of the motor where there is no bevel at all. I have made a small bevel on the chassis around the cut out for the motor and i now have sufficient movement up/down and i can rotate the motor to some degree. However, there is little front/rear play maybe 1-2mm and the motor sits towards the rear of the car meaning i cant install a heatsink as it will foul on the pulley. I am now having to remove material from the side brace (where the side belt tensioner is attached) to allow more play. I haven't tried to mesh yet but I'm worried that with the motor being so restricted even with modifications that my gearing options will be more limited. Ps, thanks for the link! will give you a little more room than the stock plastic deck mount |
Originally Posted by The Wease
(Post 5067230)
Todd..... Daves 13.5 car has been gone through to free up the drive train . He/his car was 1 full second faster a lap than me/mine. He is using the Kfactory belts, aluminum pullies and I was running stock pullies and belts.
Mike Thanks for the heads-up, though. I'm actually pretty interested in the car, despite my 1/12th scale zealotry. |
Originally Posted by liljohn1064
(Post 5038748)
I'm running Novak SS17.5s in both of mine for VTA.
What I did: 1. Take off the chassis stiffening brace. 2. Pull the sensor wire through the belt. 3. Install the motor. I had to massage it in due to the motor shaft, but it works. 4. Put the brace back on. 5. Tie wrap the sensor wires to the motor wires leaving enough loop to not rub the belts. It works nice, doesn't pinch any wires and the belts never touch the sensor wire. This leaves me with about an 1/8" gap from the endbell to the chassis. and it seems team magic will not help me at all...they doesn't reply my e-mail. :flaming: |
Originally Posted by t4m1y4niac
(Post 5068008)
i've tried your tips...the BL motor can fit to motor mount but i cannot adjut the motor position to get the proper gear mesh...
and it seems team magic will not help me at all...they doesn't reply my e-mail. :flaming: |
Originally Posted by t4m1y4niac
(Post 5068008)
i've tried your tips...the BL motor can fit to motor mount but i cannot adjut the motor position to get the proper gear mesh...
and it seems team magic will not help me at all...they doesn't reply my e-mail. :flaming: 94 40 1.08 2.35 4.84 1.69 42.86 94 41 1.09 2.29 4.72 1.73 43.93 94 42 1.09 2.24 4.61 1.77 45.00 94 43 1.10 2.19 4.50 1.81 46.07 94 44 1.11 2.14 4.40 1.86 47.15 94 45 1.12 2.09 4.30 1.90 48.22 94 46 1.13 2.04 4.21 1.94 49.29 Spur is the first column Pinion is the second column Center of spur to center of pinion distance in inches is the third column. For this car it needs to be between 1.00 and 1.25 inches or it won't work. (this is what your are fighting!) Spur/Pinion Ratio is the 4th. FDR is the 5th column. (based on the 2.0588 internal ratio) Rollout in inches is the 6th. (based on a 2.6" or 66 mm tire) Rollout in mm is the 7th. |
Originally Posted by AreCee
(Post 5068526)
I use a Novak 13.5 and a LRP 4.5 with no problems.
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and for the 17.5 specifically:
86 40 1.02 2.15 4.43 1.84 46.85 86 41 1.02 2.10 4.32 1.89 48.02 86 42 1.03 2.05 4.22 1.94 49.19 86 43 1.04 2.00 4.12 1.98 50.36 86 44 1.05 1.95 4.02 2.03 51.53 86 45 1.05 1.91 3.93 2.07 52.70 86 46 1.06 1.87 3.85 2.12 53.87 86 47 1.07 1.83 3.77 2.17 55.05 86 48 1.08 1.79 3.69 2.21 56.22 86 49 1.09 1.76 3.61 2.26 57.39 86 50 1.09 1.72 3.54 2.31 58.56 86 51 1.10 1.69 3.47 2.35 59.73 86 52 1.11 1.65 3.40 2.40 60.90 Novak recommends no lower than a 3.4 and up to 3.7. You can get the 86 tooth spur and 52 tooth pinion from Precision Racing Systems. |
Hello every one, I was just woundering if there is any one els out there running the E4 in stock ( J 540 motors)
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