Bappe

on small tracks its hard to keep up with the 4wd, but on a large track with fast corners its almost equal, the 4wd will still be a little faster but its not by much

Dragarcher

In California we have been running the FWD's in our own class. The rules we have adopted are, Cirtix 17.5 ESC and motor, Actual FWD bodies, Any manufacturer (we have TOP Sabre's running against FF03's mostly) Tires and gearing are open. The racing has been very close with most cars finishing on the same lap.

Calamari100

Hello,

I've got a Tamiya FF-02 chassis, and I've got some super grippy tires on it, but I can't seem to avoid front wheelspin during acceleration and turning. Is there anything I can do setup wise to alleviate this?

Thanks!

niznai

Yes. The FF02 has way too much suspension travel. You need stiffer springs and some spacers inside the shocks to reduce suspension travel.

If the shocks are stock.

A good idea is to increase the viscosity of your shock oil, perhaps go 60 or 80 (80 front 60 rear woudl be a good starting point with the 1 hole pistons).

akura2

Does anyone have any info on this hopped up Yokomo YRF2... I LOVE my YRF2, and I want to be able to fid out what this person did to theirs and with what parts.... Thanks





I see it has 21mm rears, drilled out rear arms... VCS shocks in the rear and some weird single spring setup up front... but I don't read japanese... meh

akura2

they are re-releasing these!!!... I've seen it on Tower and Horizon for under $30 ($27.99)

I am a happy camper!!!!

niznai

Can you post a link. Can't see very well what's going on in those little pictures.

The single spring front suspension with no damper is the standard setup of "normal" YR-F2 cars. The dual front shock suspension is on the carbon version.

akura2

Here's a link to the picture

http://www.gaz-on.net/galerie/albums...o_yr-f2_80.gif


I have a YRF2 Special edition (with the dual front and rear shocks) that I've been running... I LOVE it

akura2

The only problem I'm having with it now is that the rear end is skipping around in turns... I went from NiMh to LiPo and I think the weight is too light... I've added weight to the battery tray area toward the rear to make it equivalent to the battery I replaced (I have a brass battery tray weight from my Hot Bodies Cyclone TC http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ets-Cyclone-TC) but I haven't ried it yet... hopefully that will fix it

akura2

I tested my YRF2 with the added weight and the handling REALLY woke up.... Here's my FF01 Nissan Primera special edition:

hopndrop

iTrader: (3)

Nice primera!

akura2

Thanks.. if it wasn't a collector car I would cut the 'smokestacks' though (I never leave more than one hole above the body)

I haven't searched to see where I could get replacements yet but as soon as I do, I'm cuttin' them

I"m getting the Alfa Romeo 155 DTM so after that body arrives and I check where the posts have to be, then I'm going to cut the posts to accomodate both bodies....

hopndrop

iTrader: (3)

ttt for the fwd's

boybawang

iTrader: (6)

anyone interested

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...pecial-ed.html

UrabusDenis

Hello FWD guys!

Just to make it clear, a Tamiya Peugeot 306 Maxi body will fit normally in a 190 mm 4WD TC and a Tamiya Renault Clio will not?