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Epic 27T Racing Stock VS Yokomo 23T FLR

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Old 01-28-2008, 05:47 PM
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Default Epic 27T Racing Stock VS Yokomo 23T FLR

Street/Drag Racing on Concrete Senario

TC1- AE TC4 (Team Kit)
- IB3600 (fresh charge) 6 cell, heavier
- Yokomo 23T FLR (Halfway brush wear)
- Novak GTS ESC
- Radial Street Tyres
- FDR 5.806
- HPI Lightweight Stratus Body

TC2- Corally C4
- GP3000 (fresh charge) 6 cell
- OldSchool Tamiya DynaRun Motor (with ball bearings) fitted with Epic 27
Armature, light tension brush spring), Ball Bearings
- Novak Rooster ESC
- Nitro Foam Tyre (50% Wear)
- FDR unknown
- Protoform DNA Body (no rear spoiler)

TC3- Tamiya TA05R
- GP3000 (fresh charge) 6 cell
- Tamiya RZ 23T Motor (80% brush wear)
- Muchmore Drive ESC
- Semi Slick Tyres
- FDR 5.49
- HPI S2000 Body


Questions:
01. Why is the TC2 faster in terms of acceleration, it just uses a 27T Arm?
Not to mention longer run time.
02. Why is the TC1 and the TC2 had the same top speed? The FLR and RZ has
more RPM I think.
03. Why is the TC3 the slowest among the 3? Should it be geared higher?
04. Will changing to Novak GTS/GTX/Rooster improve the speed
performance of the TC3 or just use a lighter body?
05. Will putting ball bearings (expensive) in bushing-equipped motors
improve its performance? By how many percent? Or it's just a waste of
money?
06. Both the RZ and FLR motors were fairly new but theres visible com wear
already. Should I use a lighter tension springs for the brushes or just use
the stock ones?
07. When to use light tension brush springs? Any disadvantage/advantage?
Im after longer brush/com wear and performance.
08. Is using a Racing 27T Stock Motor like Epic 27 or Co 27 Monster better
than the 23T motors?


Just need your based-on-experience opinion/theories...


-Airflow
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