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Old 01-30-2008, 03:23 PM   #136
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I am going to get this class going at my local indoor track.

Pro 10 will be good for on road racing
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Old 01-30-2008, 03:36 PM   #137
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Originally Posted by Nexus View Post
For any of this to happen someone needs to take hold of it and run with it...

www.usvintagetransam.com was a small effort that has helped grow/expose that style of racing to many tracks.

If something like that could be done then people could have a baseline to go with. Otherwise it will be just back and forth on this thread.
Nexus is right in that regard...we need somebody who is willing to step to the forefront and get some rules established (bodies, motors, 4 or 6 cells, etc.) I can help from here where I can. Im talking to a group of racers at my home track about getting something going as well. If somebody wants to get the ball rolling on getting a rule set established and getting a proper class going, drop me a PM or message me on AIM (aerccarfan710) and I can help get this off the ground
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Old 01-30-2008, 03:41 PM   #138
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Originally Posted by Ted Flack View Post
Seems like a perfect opportunity to run 3.7 volt Lipo and what ever motor makes it go the correct speed.

If you look at what the latest Lipo packs are averaging for voltage during a discharge to 6.0 volts they are very close to a good six cell pack (7.38) so I don't see why half a Lipo won't go about the same as a four cell pack.

How about 3.7 volt Lipo and 10.5?
We were the last people to run pro 10 at the nats, and it wasn't to fast. It was SOOOOO FUN!!!! It was hard to get the car to work at first.. but it was a sweet ride. Thats actually what opened my eyes to pan cars.. My sponsor handed me a 10L2 In a box and said run this.. I had never run one before, never built one.. it was a wild ride
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Old 01-30-2008, 03:53 PM   #139
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Originally Posted by Mike Schumacher View Post
I hope CRC going make some touring hex wheel adaptor for their GenX10. Yokomo had a DDT project few years ago. Their prototype car can accept pan car wheels as well as touring wheels. In that way, you can match up the tires and the bodies easily. Yes, Pro-10 should be a 4 cell class. Not many can handle 6 cell with 19T or mod motor on a pan car.
have you driven a rubber tire car thats only rear drive? just wondering..
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Old 01-30-2008, 04:01 PM   #140
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I don't know why everyones all worked up about one rule set when I would guess most of you haven't driven the new cars.. Also, Why mandate motors and batteries..? Would be easier for clubs to adopt their own style if you have it like 190 rubber EP TC. Class weights and physical tech specs.. and have a motor class seperation... stock and mod.. Personally I would choose mod because I miss the days of rediculous power lol.. Figure out what weight/ body family.. then go with powerplant.. handicapping for diffrent batteries.. I get it.. but without testing and comparing apples to apples. there is no sense in randomly saying ok this is the class with 10.5 and 4 cell.. also you have to figure in maybe people don't want to buy special gear just for this class.. I know I wouldn't buy a 17.5 just for this... I also don't own a 13.5. I am not a fan of snoring.. Think about what gear people already have.. $80 for a brushless that you might not use much if the class doesn't happen to take off isn't my idea of fun..
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Old 01-30-2008, 04:46 PM   #141
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Last year, one of the guys at the carpet track had a Tamiya F103gt. As soon as we figured out it had TC hexes, we had a set of double pinks on it. Now, you may say that the Dbl pinks were too much for the front end, but it would do a donut on the straight past 1/2 throttle with a lipo and a 19t.

I don't know what the issues were exactly, and how they could be fixed, but the car was fast- When we could make it go straight. Maybe a better body would have helped, different front tire, etc. This was only a 19t.

I really do not believe that 4 cell would be a snoozefest. Besides, if only like 2 guys can drive the cars, how will the class get off the ground?
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Old 01-30-2008, 04:51 PM   #142
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no offense but why can't local clubs do their own rules?

all this 'hype' and no cars?

how many 'real' pro-10's are out there??
many I believe

Speedy
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Old 01-30-2008, 05:01 PM   #143
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Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
We run double pinks on asphalt all the way around and if I start my Jaco Prisms
out of the box (1.80F and 1.90R) they will last 3 weekends of 19T 4 cell 8 min races (2 quals, single main) before that get small then they are perfect for carpet.

If you are burning up tires that fast you need to prep and sugar water the track better or work on your setup.

The permanent track at Strickland, FL has the worst tire wear in the state and it you can still complete a 2 day state race with one set.
Trust me, setup is fine.. the tracks we make in parking lots are terrible.. lol.. I am just saying. Not everywhere has smooth tracks.. We have a couple tracks that are so rough it makes 10.5 sedan an adventure.. I didn't say I was burning up tires.. I was talking about ride height to clear the bumps.. There is no such thing as 3mm ride height... we are talkin 5+
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Old 01-30-2008, 05:03 PM   #144
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Originally Posted by speedybill View Post
no offense but why can't local clubs do their own rules?

all this 'hype' and no cars?

how many 'real' pro-10's are out there??
many I believe

Speedy
I don't run my 235 car as much because Dale hid the mold for the P35 (one of the best pro 10 bodies ever)
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Old 01-30-2008, 05:36 PM   #145
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The 7 manufacturers working together on the 200mm Pro 10 project are working out what chassis rules we can. Motor and battery rules are up to you guys. We suggest running the same power systems used in 1/12th scale cars...4 cells and 17.5/27T, 19T/10.5 and open Mod motors. This will keep the speeds in check and guarantee good driveability.

6 cell speed is what killed Pro 10 before so we are all a bit worried about running these cars on 7.4v LiPo. If guys running 6cell/7.4v LiPo focus on 21.5/Mabuchi,17.5/27t and 10.5/19t with no open mod the speeds should be about right.

Some one brought up ROAR. ROAR usually lets racers run a new class for a year or two until they start seeing some consensus on what racers want to run motor, battery and body wise. Then they take that info and generate a set of rules to make what most people are running into an official class.

I am really excited about how positive the response to the new Pro 10 project has been. I want to thank you all for for your feedback and comments.

FYI, I am posting a lot here because I am the only person working at on of the 7 companies involved that is NOT at the Snowbirds right now I am sure Josh, Frank, Bruce, Eric, etc....will all get involved here when they get back
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Old 01-30-2008, 05:41 PM   #146
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Double post
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Last edited by AdrianM; 01-30-2008 at 05:54 PM.
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Old 01-30-2008, 06:19 PM   #147
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13.5/ 6 cell wouldn't be to bad(we drove stock/ 6 cell at nats in 04).. I mean Taz can drive one, then anyone can lol. For the more experienced guys I have a feeling that 10.5/ 6 cell might be the favorite.. I love the racing in TC 10.5, its good close racing but it doesn't really require a lot of throttle control.. Thats what I miss about pro 10 (mod). This weekend we have a 235 pro 10 race, but its with 4 cells and that makes baby jesus cry..
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Old 01-30-2008, 06:20 PM   #148
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no offense but why can't local clubs do their own rules?

all this 'hype' and no cars?

how many 'real' pro-10's are out there??
many I believe

Speedy
In an attempt to not only bring back 1/10th pan cars but also to try and put some realism back into scale racing, a group of us in Northern California has come up with the following series. We started this discussion sometime Q407 and finally has developed into the following. The renewed interest shown in this thread proves that others are thinking the same thing.

To generate as much interest as possible and get as many racers involved, we are looking at the following rules and classes. Of course, they may need slight adjustments but of course we will try to ensure that the rules are not changed to the point of killing the series and forcing untimely upgrades.

Due to the recent announcement of CRC and Corally on their new 1/10th pan cars and along with the already existing BMi, Darkside and Speed Merchant cars, we are looking at the following classes and rules that will best support all of the current crop of cars available. Of course, any old Associated, Bolink, TRC, Trinity, Delta or any home made cars that meet the criteria will be allowed:

235mm Pan Car = GTP, Group C, ALMS, Can-Am type bodies. Either 7.4V Lipo 13.5 Brushless or10.5 Brushless or 19T brushed 6 cells NiMH any mah rating

200mm Pan Car = GT bodies (Corvette, Viper, Saleen, Porsches, etc.) 7.4 Lipo/17.5T or 13.5 Brushless/27T brushed 4 cell NiMH any mah rating

190mm Touring Car = GT2 (Porsches, Opals, any two door coupe, silhouette type sedan with large wings) 7.4 lipo/21.5T brushless, 27T brushed 5 cell NiMH any mah rating. Foam tires only. (Although, the foam only rule is not concrete and could change)

We are encouraging realistic paint schemes or models of existing, past or present, of actual cars.

We have six tracks/clubs in the greater NorCal area that we are working with to schedule dates with the series beginning in April and finishing in Feb/Mar 2009 indoors on carpet.

There will be 5 minute qualifiers and 8 minute mains. The mains will be 10 car mains based on qualifying by all classes combined. In other words, a 190mm Touring car could make it into the A main with some of the 235mm cars. All of the qualifying times will be sorted from best to last regardless of what class you are in. This closely models real racing events such as the Daytona 24hrs, Sebring 12hurs and LeMans 24hr races and while this does make for difficult passing, it will hone everyone’s skills at passing safely. Something that is sorely needed at club level racing.

Points for all three classes will be kept separate and there will be first through third for each of the three classes with really, REALLY nice trophies. No plaques or bowling trophies. (No offence bowlers). We are currently negotiating with a manufacture to be the series sponsor which will provide funding for the trophies.

We had our first test session indoors on carpet on a very small, narrow track with three 235mm cars running three different power systems to test proof of concept and that is how we arrived at the classes/rules listed above. While it was difficult to pass and we pretty much had to follow the leader until someone made a mistake, the cars where very easy to drive and a ton of fun!!

Please feel free to comment.
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Old 01-30-2008, 06:37 PM   #149
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hey crashby, why are you hating? lol.. your going to give 235's the most power? and the poor lil touring cars are going to have stock motors and 5 cells? if we run that on asphalt I would be sleeping lol.. how about 6 cells nimh and 10.5..we already have a power:weight/ Grip/ aero disadvantage lol. I Might be able to use my oo7 carpet car lol If ya hose me to bad on the rules I will just run timmy over with my mod car in practice lol..
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Old 01-30-2008, 06:51 PM   #150
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hey crashby, why are you hating? lol.. your going to give 235's the most power? and the poor lil touring cars are going to have stock motors and 5 cells? if we run that on asphalt I would be sleeping lol.. how about 6 cells nimh and 10.5..we already have a power:weight/ Grip/ aero disadvantage lol. I Might be able to use my oo7 carpet car lol If ya hose me to bad on the rules I will just run timmy over with my mod car in practice lol..
No hate'n. Just being real. Have you ever watched a Daytona 24 hour race? Part of the challenge is to drive the 235mm without runing over the little Porsches or more importantly, driving the little Porsches and staying out of the way while staying ahead of the second place car in you class. Besides, the 190mm trophy will be the same size as the 235mm trophy! And after you win the 190mm class trophy, next year maybe you will step up to 200mm or maybe even 235mm.
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