CRC 1/10 Pan Car
#2596
I suggest a wider and stronger motor pod for a 3.5t motor
#2597
Tech Adept
I believe you will find these plates shown in the original Gen-X 10 Pro manual (on the CRC website). Probably not in the LE manual. They should be stacked under the larger plates to allow you to run larger front tires on you car without adding other shims to get to proper front ride height.
#2598
But if you want to use the extentions then for a ballpark gues rollout between 25 and 28 mm depending on circuit. You should use 48dp spurs and pinions.
Replace the 1/12 centershock with a touringcar shock if you haven't already. The 1/12 shock is too weak for a 2s lipo heavy car.
#2599
What westy says
But if you want to use the extentions then for a ballpark gues rollout between 25 and 28 mm depending on circuit. You should use 48dp spurs and pinions.
Replace the 1/12 centershock with a touringcar shock if you haven't already. The 1/12 shock is too weak for a 2s lipo heavy car.
But if you want to use the extentions then for a ballpark gues rollout between 25 and 28 mm depending on circuit. You should use 48dp spurs and pinions.
Replace the 1/12 centershock with a touringcar shock if you haven't already. The 1/12 shock is too weak for a 2s lipo heavy car.
thanks..i just changed to 48p replace the shock..but i feel that my spur is going back and forward is that right?kimbrough spur with 1229 part balls..i think that the pod is small for big pinion..
#2600
Tech Adept
#2601
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
PS~ love the pod plate! (troy is a good friend of mine)
also change out that rear shock to the encore. for me it was a night and day difference in performance compared to the losi. plus you'll loose a few grams
nice paint!
Last edited by joeymdz; 01-12-2012 at 11:17 AM.
#2602
Bill
#2603
Thanks for updating your blog.
Have been running the reversed flat servo mount since September. At the IIC. Frank C had the production parts for me; so, my cars are like yours.
One suggestion...Try to get the steering links to be at the same angle as the upper arms for less toe change as the suspension moves (per Frank). I achieved this by custom drilling a Kimbrough #200 Mid-Sized Servo Saver with the appropriate hole positions (located closer to the inward pre-drilled holes of the #201 servo saver).
Again...Beautiful blog.
Bill
Last edited by Still Bill; 01-12-2012 at 07:33 PM.
#2605
Not so worried about the Losi shock's weight because it still can be used on a heavier 2S powered WGT. Just needs to be blueprinted by cleaning the flashing off of its piston.
But, I only run Encores on my two 1S cars.
Bill
#2606
Chris,
The mount holes in the reversed flat plate are for JR, KO and Futaba mini servos.
Try the CRC long upper arms for less camber change in high traction conditions. I have them on almost all the time. And they have holes to convert to standard length arms with a little bit of work.
Bill
The mount holes in the reversed flat plate are for JR, KO and Futaba mini servos.
Try the CRC long upper arms for less camber change in high traction conditions. I have them on almost all the time. And they have holes to convert to standard length arms with a little bit of work.
Bill
#2607
Tech Adept
Hi Bill,
Cheers for that, will look into the long arm conversion in the future. I think the car is going great now its just me that needs more practice!
I am happy with the shock and the car so will leave the shock for the time being!
Trying to get as much track time as possible but work and family get in the way! Been trying VRC with the 1/12th to make sure my thumbs dont go rusty. Not quite the same but helps.
Cheers for that, will look into the long arm conversion in the future. I think the car is going great now its just me that needs more practice!
I am happy with the shock and the car so will leave the shock for the time being!
Trying to get as much track time as possible but work and family get in the way! Been trying VRC with the 1/12th to make sure my thumbs dont go rusty. Not quite the same but helps.
#2608
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
bump steer
chris,
in looking thru your blog photos, it appears that the outer ends of your tierods are a fair amount lower than the inner (servo saver) end since the addition of the flat mounted servo. As you have already noted, this will create bump steer. It is simple enough to ease that problem substantially just by installing taller ball studs on the steering blocks. Thankfully, with the large inner diameter of the 1/10th scale wheels, there's plenty of room to use quite a tall ballstud without causing any interference problems.
Happy motoring...
in looking thru your blog photos, it appears that the outer ends of your tierods are a fair amount lower than the inner (servo saver) end since the addition of the flat mounted servo. As you have already noted, this will create bump steer. It is simple enough to ease that problem substantially just by installing taller ball studs on the steering blocks. Thankfully, with the large inner diameter of the 1/10th scale wheels, there's plenty of room to use quite a tall ballstud without causing any interference problems.
Happy motoring...
Hi Bill,
Cheers for that, will look into the long arm conversion in the future. I think the car is going great now its just me that needs more practice!
I am happy with the shock and the car so will leave the shock for the time being!
Trying to get as much track time as possible but work and family get in the way! Been trying VRC with the 1/12th to make sure my thumbs dont go rusty. Not quite the same but helps.
Cheers for that, will look into the long arm conversion in the future. I think the car is going great now its just me that needs more practice!
I am happy with the shock and the car so will leave the shock for the time being!
Trying to get as much track time as possible but work and family get in the way! Been trying VRC with the 1/12th to make sure my thumbs dont go rusty. Not quite the same but helps.
#2609
Tech Adept
Hi,
You would have thought that but I have raised the ball studs as much as I can without them touching the wheels. I use the middle hole on the steering block. I don't believe I have up close pics of that on there but they are there. Like I said its not far of level now and I am loving the way the car is handling at the minute!
You would have thought that but I have raised the ball studs as much as I can without them touching the wheels. I use the middle hole on the steering block. I don't believe I have up close pics of that on there but they are there. Like I said its not far of level now and I am loving the way the car is handling at the minute!
#2610
noone?i think that in germany some guys run this with 4.5t motors in 2s asphalt?i didnt buy this for racing just for fun in the track..we dont have so many pancars here but i will gather some guys(some saying that 3.5t is to fast for pancar and asphalt...we will see) ....thanks bill