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Old 12-07-2010, 07:09 AM
  #1291  
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Originally Posted by dumper View Post
The main reason I started to run 1/12th scale springs was to limit the travel in the front end. I felt that when I was heading into a corner and turned the wheel, the front end dug in and dumper over on the nose.

Look for my 2010 Vegas and Tom's 2010 Cleveland setups coming to the website very soon.

Thanks for the support guys!

dumper

(Brian Wynn)
Team CRC
That's exactly what was happening to me and then I saw you were running the 12th setup and i knew exactly why you did it. Its help me for sure.
Please get those setups up soon, got me LE coming tomorrow.
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Old 12-07-2010, 12:52 PM
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In that case, I may stick with the standard springs.
OK, now for some general information. Almost no-one seems to run these with 2 cell and 13.5 (or there abouts. It's either one-cell, or full mod with the 235 chassis.
I don't get a lot of set-up and practice time at the track (family man), so I don't experiment too much, I just read, tweak, and cross my fingers on race day!
We run outdoor asphalt with no additive or track prep. Laaaarge 1/8 track too so plenty of speed.
With the slightly heavier, and much more powerful car, would going up in spring weights from stock be a good idea? I'm currently white rear, red front. Would going to red rear and, say, green front be a better starting point?
My front tire wear is very flat, which is great, but I have inconsistent steering (well, feels like it). I'm running 2 shims back and 0 active caster. Wuold changing to the 5 degree block help even out the steering without dramatically affecting my tire wear?
Just looking for general advice really, as there aren't a lot of people around experienced with mid-powered asphalt 200mm cars.
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Old 12-07-2010, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by JR007 View Post
In that case, I may stick with the standard springs.
OK, now for some general information. Almost no-one seems to run these with 2 cell and 13.5 (or there abouts. It's either one-cell, or full mod with the 235 chassis.
I don't get a lot of set-up and practice time at the track (family man), so I don't experiment too much, I just read, tweak, and cross my fingers on race day!
We run outdoor asphalt with no additive or track prep. Laaaarge 1/8 track too so plenty of speed.
With the slightly heavier, and much more powerful car, would going up in spring weights from stock be a good idea? I'm currently white rear, red front. Would going to red rear and, say, green front be a better starting point?
My front tire wear is very flat, which is great, but I have inconsistent steering (well, feels like it). I'm running 2 shims back and 0 active caster. Wuold changing to the 5 degree block help even out the steering without dramatically affecting my tire wear?
Just looking for general advice really, as there aren't a lot of people around experienced with mid-powered asphalt 200mm cars.
I ran 1/10th king pins with red/red springs and the 10 degree blocks for the Asphalt Nats. Was very good for me.

Bill
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Old 12-08-2010, 12:51 AM
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I have just been mucking around with the car. I added 3mm spacers to raise my upper arm. I had to cut one end off to allow the steering arms to pass.
Had a test drive outside the house, super dusty driveway, usually hook & spin when I get the car on it, went sweet. Can't wait to see what it does on the track now
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Old 12-08-2010, 04:02 AM
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Hey Dumper, what about 1/10th springs on a 1/12th in low bite and bumpy tracks. There seems to be room between the end of the kingpin and inside of the Pro Cut wheels. Are the 1/10 kingpins longer too?
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Old 12-08-2010, 06:41 AM
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The 1/10th scale kingpins are longer and will not fit inside a 1/12th scale rim.
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Old 12-08-2010, 07:16 AM
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...So i'm looking at getting a new LE, or at least the conversion kit. If I get the LE, how many tenths am I gauranteed to shave off?

Seriously though, what will I notice on track between the new, vs. older car?

I see the new car has the Encore shock. Is this a significant improvement over the older (larger) Losi shock?

Last, how do you remove the battery between runs? It appears the only way is to loosen, and/or remove the top deck screws.

Thanks,
Steve
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Old 12-08-2010, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by bsmooth View Post
...So i'm looking at getting a new LE, or at least the conversion kit. If I get the LE, how many tenths am I gauranteed to shave off?

Seriously though, what will I notice on track between the new, vs. older car?

I see the new car has the Encore shock. Is this a significant improvement over the older (larger) Losi shock?

Last, how do you remove the battery between runs? It appears the only way is to loosen, and/or remove the top deck screws.

Thanks,
Steve
For me, about 2/10ths on NorCal's carpet track...guaranteed!

I do like the new Encore shock. Easy to build. Have it connected directly to the top deck via a CRC #3346 Lightweight Antenna/Shock Mount that I shaved down to make it about half height.

Pull the four screws holding the top deck down to get the battery out. We previously had to pull four screws to remove the bottom tray; so, it's about the same work.

Depending on the dimensions of your 1S packs, I modified the old bottom tray to hold my pack firmly in place. Cut off the front and back to make a simple channel that the battery rests in. I will be adding additional holes in my chassis to hold the packs in place side-to-side via the CRC #3373 Molded Battery Position Pieces. Also expect to add sets of mounting holes to be able to move the 1S battery a tad back from directly behind the servo...Hint, hint to CRC...More holes please.

The new design is sooooooooooo much cleaner.

Bill
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Old 12-08-2010, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Still Bill View Post
For me, about 2/10ths on NorCal's carpet track...guaranteed!

I do like the new Encore shock. Easy to build. Have it connected directly to the top deck via a CRC #3346 Lightweight Antenna/Shock Mount that I shaved down to make it about half height.

Pull the four screws holding the top deck down to get the battery out. We previously had to pull four screws to remove the bottom tray; so, it's about the same work.

Depending on the dimensions of your 1S packs, I modified the old bottom tray to hold my pack firmly in place. Cut off the front and back to make a simple channel that the battery rests in. I will be adding additional holes in my chassis to hold the packs in place side-to-side via the CRC #3373 Molded Battery Position Pieces. Also expect to add sets of mounting holes to be able to move the 1S battery a tad back from directly behind the servo...Hint, hint to CRC...More holes please.

The new design is sooooooooooo much cleaner.

Bill
Thanks Bill,

yea, I forgot that I had to remove the four bottom screws to get the batt tray out!

Sounds like I should just sell the old car, and start fresh.

I hope to make it to Nor Cal soon!

Regards,
Steve
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Old 12-08-2010, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by bsmooth View Post
Thanks Bill,

yea, I forgot that I had to remove the four bottom screws to get the batt tray out!

Sounds like I should just sell the old car, and start fresh.

I hope to make it to Nor Cal soon!

Regards,
Steve
Selling your old X-10 chassis for a friendly price could help promote the class. Or keeping the old one around and dropping a 2S pack into it can provide a cheap thrill too...

And we hope to see you soon.

Bill
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Old 12-08-2010, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Still Bill View Post
Selling your old X-10 chassis for a friendly price could help promote the class. Or keeping the old one around and dropping a 2S pack into it can provide a cheap thrill too...

And we hope to see you soon.

Bill
Looks like Wednesday evenings is the word. That will be fun. I'll find a way to bust out of work early and make a little road trip.

I'm going to put my car up on the local board (rcracing.com) for $120. It will be for a complete roller; wheels, body, some spares, etc; I'll set it up so someone will only need to add their favorite electronics and go. The car actually has very low mileage. I'll snap some pics when I get home.

Regards,
Steve
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Old 12-09-2010, 08:03 AM
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Default Help with setup

I am BRAND new to 10th scale pan cars. In addition, I am fairly new to carpet racing. I built my GenX LE and raced it for the first time a week or so ago. An experienced racer, Bill Bodine(sp?), was looking at my car and noticed that I have spacers in between the chasis and the front plate. As a result I don't have shims. As a result of the spacers the plate is also not secured to the chasis out on the edges like it is in the former model.

Are people leaving this set up as is or are they removing the spacers and going wtih the shims on the LE?

Also, I was told that when I put the car away after each race taht I need to back the screw out that holds the rear springs so that there's no pressure on those springs while the car is sitting idle. When I go to run the car do I simply screw that screw down until it makes gentle contact wtih the chasis?

Last question, how often do you need to rebuild the center shock and or change the oil in the dampening tubes?

I really appreciate the help!

curt
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Old 12-09-2010, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by JR007 View Post
In that case, I may stick with the standard springs.
OK, now for some general information. Almost no-one seems to run these with 2 cell and 13.5 (or there abouts. It's either one-cell, or full mod with the 235 chassis.
I don't get a lot of set-up and practice time at the track (family man), so I don't experiment too much, I just read, tweak, and cross my fingers on race day!
We run outdoor asphalt with no additive or track prep. Laaaarge 1/8 track too so plenty of speed.
With the slightly heavier, and much more powerful car, would going up in spring weights from stock be a good idea? I'm currently white rear, red front. Would going to red rear and, say, green front be a better starting point?
My front tire wear is very flat, which is great, but I have inconsistent steering (well, feels like it). I'm running 2 shims back and 0 active caster. Wuold changing to the 5 degree block help even out the steering without dramatically affecting my tire wear?
Just looking for general advice really, as there aren't a lot of people around experienced with mid-powered asphalt 200mm cars.
on asphalt no tire prep or track prep your car is always going to be hard to drive

but at the front stick to 1/10 spring try green spring front
5 caster block shim all way back
rear red (white is too soft for 2s and make the chassis rub)
center spring stock from early kit 30 oil
10k side tube
tires purple front
pink rear or even softer rear white or green but tire wear is important
not prpping the tire on a pan car is a pretty stupid rule as it takes out a lot of fun
unless you are racing on a hyper hi grip heavy grint asphalt
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Old 12-09-2010, 01:26 PM
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Hi,

run my LE for the first time today. In Europe we use 2S Lipos with 13,5T/17,5T. So far i have really big issues with the stiffness of the rear pod. I already updated to the aluminum rear left mirco pod. Basic problem is that eyerytime i accelerate the car, it ends up with a strange noise... My theory is, that the motorpod plate is to weak in addition with the micro pod plate the hole axle moves back and forth while accelerating.

I saw some japanese guys using some custom parts to solve this. Any other advice?
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Old 12-09-2010, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by defencex View Post
Hi,

run my LE for the first time today. In Europe we use 2S Lipos with 13,5T/17,5T. So far i have really big issues with the stiffness of the rear pod. I already updated to the aluminum rear left mirco pod. Basic problem is that eyerytime i accelerate the car, it ends up with a strange noise... My theory is, that the motorpod plate is to weak in addition with the micro pod plate the hole axle moves back and forth while accelerating.

I saw some japanese guys using some custom parts to solve this. Any other advice?
i race my car for quite a while
in belgium we use 2s 10.5
and i have no issue even in the summer outdoor with a 6.5 on 2S and the 235 mmKIT
just make sure that you didn't bend the motor holder under a hard hit
use good quality screw to hold the motor and make sure the lower bolt
is really tight
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