3LikesCRC 1/10 Pan Car
11-22-2013, 06:07 PM
#3556
If you are running a full-size 2s/7.4V battery, you will probably want to stick with the LE version so you have enough room to place all of the electronics on the main chassis plate. However, an SE would work with a Shorty 2s pack.
Bill
Bill
11-23-2013, 06:45 AM
#3557
Tech Adept
LE seems the best option but is a discontinued product
SE with shorty is an option but small mah and i don't have it.
For this reason i asked for "big 2s battery" if works fine with more weight in front than LE or i need to buy SE and shorty batteries
thanks and regards
11-23-2013, 09:51 AM
#3558
1) Stormer Hobbies in the US has new LE kits listed for $149.95. This is clearly a rock bottom price. And A-Main Hobbies has them for $209.
2) In the US, there are a lot of LE's out there. With the SE now coming out, I expect you will be able to buy a used LE fairly cheap in the near future. Watch the Classifieds.
Bill
11-23-2013, 01:52 PM
#3559
Tech Adept
11-24-2013, 04:31 PM
#3560
Tech Initiate
Just to drop a quick update on my SE kit problems. You guys were right CRC customer support rocks. All things are worked out. I can't wait to get my alter ego kit now. Thanks to a friend loaning me the parts I needed, I was able to get one run on my car yesterday at the track. The car still needs lots of setup but I was really impressed with the first drive.
thanks for the feed back. I feel much better about buying this Kit.
Colin
thanks for the feed back. I feel much better about buying this Kit.
Colin
11-26-2013, 06:14 AM
#3561
where could I buy the Gen-X 10 SE in Europe?
11-26-2013, 11:04 AM
#3562
Tech Rookie
Hello
In the actionmodel UK has and I bought in hungarian rcprof!
In the actionmodel UK has and I bought in hungarian rcprof!
12-15-2013, 11:00 AM
#3564
12-15-2013, 06:17 PM
#3566
12-15-2013, 07:15 PM
#3567
Tools
Hello
Are these all the tips i would need to build the car (SE)?
Was looking in the manual trying to figuer out the hex and socket sizes i need,
i am coming from metric land were all i need is 1.5/2/2.5/3mm some times 5mm.
What socket sizes would i use on the rear diff nut?
Any other tools you guys would suggest i look in to?
Hex
1/16"
3/32"
5/64"
Socket sizes
??
Thanks
Are these all the tips i would need to build the car (SE)?
Was looking in the manual trying to figuer out the hex and socket sizes i need,
i am coming from metric land were all i need is 1.5/2/2.5/3mm some times 5mm.
What socket sizes would i use on the rear diff nut?
Any other tools you guys would suggest i look in to?
Hex
1/16"
3/32"
5/64"
Socket sizes
??
Thanks
12-15-2013, 08:55 PM
#3568
Hello
Are these all the tips i would need to build the car (SE)?
Was looking in the manual trying to figuer out the hex and socket sizes i need,
i am coming from metric land were all i need is 1.5/2/2.5/3mm some times 5mm.
What socket sizes would i use on the rear diff nut?
Any other tools you guys would suggest i look in to?
Hex
1/16"
3/32"
5/64"
Socket sizes
??
Thanks
Are these all the tips i would need to build the car (SE)?
Was looking in the manual trying to figuer out the hex and socket sizes i need,
i am coming from metric land were all i need is 1.5/2/2.5/3mm some times 5mm.
What socket sizes would i use on the rear diff nut?
Any other tools you guys would suggest i look in to?
Hex
1/16"
3/32"
5/64"
Socket sizes
??
Thanks
You'll also want a 3/16" nut driver for the 4-40 mini nuts.
I would also reccomend a .050" hex driver for the tweak screws, the link clamp screws, the king pins, the castor block caps, and the kingpin grub screws. I find that a 2 mm hex driver works perfectly fine as a 5/64" driver.
The kit comes with a .030" "L" wrench to build the side tubes. I have one with a handle, but if you use super glue on the non-hex end of the grub screw you won't need it.
Here's what I use 99% of the time on the car.
.050
1/16
2 mm
3/32
3/16
11/32
While there is another nut size on the lower A arms, I use a pair of pliers on that mini 2-56 nut as I only adjust it once in a while.
12-16-2013, 02:04 AM
#3569
11/32" nut driver for the diff.
You'll also want a 3/16" nut driver for the 4-40 mini nuts.
I would also reccomend a .050" hex driver for the tweak screws, the link clamp screws, the king pins, the castor block caps, and the kingpin grub screws. I find that a 2 mm hex driver works perfectly fine as a 5/64" driver.
The kit comes with a .030" "L" wrench to build the side tubes. I have one with a handle, but if you use super glue on the non-hex end of the grub screw you won't need it.
Here's what I use 99% of the time on the car.
.050
1/16
2 mm
3/32
3/16
11/32
While there is another nut size on the lower A arms, I use a pair of pliers on that mini 2-56 nut as I only adjust it once in a while.
You'll also want a 3/16" nut driver for the 4-40 mini nuts.
I would also reccomend a .050" hex driver for the tweak screws, the link clamp screws, the king pins, the castor block caps, and the kingpin grub screws. I find that a 2 mm hex driver works perfectly fine as a 5/64" driver.
The kit comes with a .030" "L" wrench to build the side tubes. I have one with a handle, but if you use super glue on the non-hex end of the grub screw you won't need it.
Here's what I use 99% of the time on the car.
.050
1/16
2 mm
3/32
3/16
11/32
While there is another nut size on the lower A arms, I use a pair of pliers on that mini 2-56 nut as I only adjust it once in a while.
I found when it comes to rc quality tools the frist time make wrenchin on rc easier on the fingers.
I had two stages till i found that out, 1 allen keys (came with kit)
,2 cheap hex drivers (easily rounded)
, spend a little more an get the good stuff.(SE)will be my second kit but my frist electric.
12-16-2013, 08:04 PM
#3570
11/32" nut driver for the diff.
You'll also want a 3/16" nut driver for the 4-40 mini nuts.
I would also reccomend a .050" hex driver for the tweak screws, the link clamp screws, the king pins, the castor block caps, and the kingpin grub screws. I find that a 2 mm hex driver works perfectly fine as a 5/64" driver.
The kit comes with a .030" "L" wrench to build the side tubes. I have one with a handle, but if you use super glue on the non-hex end of the grub screw you won't need it.
Here's what I use 99% of the time on the car.
.050
1/16
2 mm
3/32
3/16
11/32
While there is another nut size on the lower A arms, I use a pair of pliers on that mini 2-56 nut as I only adjust it once in a while.
You'll also want a 3/16" nut driver for the 4-40 mini nuts.
I would also reccomend a .050" hex driver for the tweak screws, the link clamp screws, the king pins, the castor block caps, and the kingpin grub screws. I find that a 2 mm hex driver works perfectly fine as a 5/64" driver.
The kit comes with a .030" "L" wrench to build the side tubes. I have one with a handle, but if you use super glue on the non-hex end of the grub screw you won't need it.
Here's what I use 99% of the time on the car.
.050
1/16
2 mm
3/32
3/16
11/32
While there is another nut size on the lower A arms, I use a pair of pliers on that mini 2-56 nut as I only adjust it once in a while.
And I use a Hudy 5/64 Ball End Hex Driver (to get to the camber adjustment screw without having to remove the WGT front wheels to get at it). Use this tool almost every race day to fine tune the camber to the track conditions.
Also have the CRC #4259 Ride Height Gauge (for the new slider rear pod adjustments); CRC #5010 Tire Sanding Paddle (for cutting/truing tires); and, CRC #4279 Pivot Ball Popper (for building front ends).
To name a few...LOL
Bill
