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CRC 1/10 Pan Car


Old 08-27-2013, 10:07 AM
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Default Prepped track

Would love to try on a prepped track.....but co-operation of my friends is not going to happen any time soon.
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Old 08-27-2013, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Cancun Tom View Post
It took me a day to edit the footage of Sunday's test session. I make all the suggested changes. Raised the servo so it wouldn't rub the chassis. Changed to the center holes in the saver and also on the steering arms. Put the proper screw in the servo saver so it would work properly. Changed to white side springs. Changed to BSR capped tires. Rears are Green "S" kevlars, fronts are White "L" feather lites. Handling was much improved. If the track was wider I think that I could go flat out all the way around. I still had some spins but most were either caused by small rocks on the track surface (see video) or driver error. They increased after about 10 mins. of running as the dirt/dust built up on the tires. I flat spotted the right rear somehow????
All said it was a fun test. For #5 I plan to return to the foam tires as I feel I can get them to work eventually. Any further suggestions, tips, etc. would be very welcomed. Thanks guys!
http://youtu.be/-1dH0T_ieZ0
Tom,

As always, the video is very helpful.

I am thinking that you may have found the best tire solution for that surface with the BSR capped tires. Foams are probably going to be very good for a few laps; but, will pickup too much debris in short order.

Would not be surprised that you flat spotted tire was just a defect (too thin) in that tire's casing.

From the video, I cannot see how the car is handling at the far end of the court. I usually do not do that well while standing at one end of a track myself. So, I suggest that you stand at the center of the court to get the best vantage point for seeing the whole track.

What is your battery voltage after running at full speed for 10 minutes? You might want to limit your testing to say 8 minute sessions; so, you don't run the battery voltage down too low. I am safely at 3.75-3.80V at the end of a six minute run on a fully-charged battery in my WGT car.

In Edinburgh, Scotland, I did drive a friend's touring car on a wood gym floor one time; so, I do know something about lack of traction...drift racing at its best...LOL

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Old 08-27-2013, 12:53 PM
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Bill,
Thanks so much for your reply. We do not have a "drivers stand" here so when we race I use a small step ladder so that I can look down on the track. I also get better video's of the action that way. I'll do that for the next one.
The GoPro camera doesn't have a zoom feature. I have it attached to my baseball hat so it always films what I'm looking at. If you follow this link to a oval touring car race a couple of months ago you'll see what I mean. (My car is the red Porsche 911 GT1).
http://youtu.be/7cVVsj_7GjM

I really worry about the 1S Lipo voltage. This is why.......if I program my ESC to cutoff @ 3.0v the car will only run about 20 secs before shutting down. If I set it to "not protected" then I can get proper run times at the risk of not know what my finishing voltage will be. It can also be set at 2.6, 2.8, 3.2, & 3.4v/cell. Where do you set yours? Any advice? This single cell Lipo stuff is all new to me.
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Old 08-27-2013, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Cancun Tom View Post
Bill,
Thanks so much for your reply. We do not have a "drivers stand" here so when we race I use a small step ladder so that I can look down on the track. I also get better video's of the action that way. I'll do that for the next one.
The GoPro camera doesn't have a zoom feature. I have it attached to my baseball hat so it always films what I'm looking at. If you follow this link to a oval touring car race a couple of months ago you'll see what I mean. (My car is the red Porsche 911 GT1).
http://youtu.be/7cVVsj_7GjM

I really worry about the 1S Lipo voltage. This is why.......if I program my ESC to cutoff @ 3.0v the car will only run about 20 secs before shutting down. If I set it to "not protected" then I can get proper run times at the risk of not know what my finishing voltage will be. It can also be set at 2.6, 2.8, 3.2, & 3.4v/cell. Where do you set yours? Any advice? This single cell Lipo stuff is all new to me.
Ah yes, I remember those fun years of step ladder racing in parking lots around the SF Bay Area. That last video of your touring car from the middle of the long side of the court was great.

As I remember that Novak 1S Voltage Booster on you car already has a voltage cutoff built into it; so, you would not want to run any cutoff via the ESC when you have this booster. I have been warned that anything under 3.3 volts is questionable. This is the minimum voltage that certain suppliers warn about. So, for my WGT 6-minute races, 3.75 volts is probably as low as I get at the end of a run. And I use somewhere between 3.75-3.85 volts as my storage voltage when I won't be racing for a week or two.

FYI...I am a proponent for using the highest rated batteries available. I tend to cycle my packs no more than 120 times before replacing them; whereas, they are probably pretty good for 300 cycles. But, I am not retired yet...LOL

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Old 08-28-2013, 02:32 AM
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Can anyone give me a hand on the rollout for 4.5T 2S LIPO at a mid size outdoor track? Thank you in advance.
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Old 08-29-2013, 02:44 PM
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I just notice that my graphite 1765 top plate is broken. I'm not surprise as I thought it was very flimsy when building the kit. In fact I had already ordered one as a spare. Now in looking back thru the pictures you guys posted to help guide me I can see that there is one that is attached to both left and right side pod plates, as long as you have the same on on the left as on the right. I do have that already. Could someone tell me where I can get the stronger top plate I see in the photo's? Thanks
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Old 08-29-2013, 05:56 PM
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Hi Tom,

Please go to www.teamcrc.com to find the part number under optional graphite parts.

I am in the hospital for my knee problem; but, wanted to get back to you soonest.

I now have a ti knee to match my Lunsford ti on my cars...LOL

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Old 08-29-2013, 06:01 PM
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Hi Tom,

Please go to www.teamcrc.com to find the part number under optional graphite parts.

I am in the hospital for my knee problem; but, wanted to get back to you soonest.

I now have a ti knee to match my Lunsford ti on my cars...LOL

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Old 08-29-2013, 06:03 PM
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Posted twice. It's the drugs! LOL
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Old 08-29-2013, 07:52 PM
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Hope you get well soon Bill. If you get bored and wanna chat RC hit me up.

2onefour245sixsix5one

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Old 08-29-2013, 08:23 PM
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Hang in there Bill
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Old 08-29-2013, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
Hope you get well soon Bill. If you get bored and wanna chat RC hit me up.

2onefour245sixsix5one

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Andrew,

You going to IIC?

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Old 08-29-2013, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
Hope you get well soon Bill. If you get bored and wanna chat RC hit me up.

2onefour245sixsix5one

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Andrew,

You going to IIC?

Wish that I could post a picture of what they have me strapped into. I call it "the rack". ; (

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Old 08-29-2013, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottE1776 View Post
Hang in there Bill
Yep...Hanging would probably be more comfortable... ;-)

Somebody have a drink to that. Can't on my meds...LOL

And now I will quit shanghai'ing this thread amigos. Cancun Tom may have another question for us...

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Old 08-30-2013, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Cancun Tom View Post
I just notice that my graphite 1765 top plate is broken. I'm not surprise as I thought it was very flimsy when building the kit. In fact I had already ordered one as a spare. Now in looking back thru the pictures you guys posted to help guide me I can see that there is one that is attached to both left and right side pod plates, as long as you have the same on on the left as on the right. I do have that already. Could someone tell me where I can get the stronger top plate I see in the photo's? Thanks
CRC Part #1763 Full Box Top Plate. Have not broken one yet...knock on asphalt!

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