Codfather

iTrader: (14)

Alright I have a 1s setup, and run indoor carpet only. It's not screwed to the standard graphite bumper underneath. It's held in place by a pair of collars on the front body posts. It extends 1/3" past the graphite bumper at the front. At the sides near the font wheels it doesn't extend past the graphite bumper at all.

Once I saw your comment Still Bill, it makes sense that it should be screwed in at the sides to prevent it from lifting, leaving the wheels exposed.

I have a Parma PSE universal bumper I can carve into a better shape. What advice do you have Bill?

Cancun Tom

I have ordered a couple of 1S batteries to use in this kit. I have no experience with 1 cell LiPo's. I also have a Novak voltage booster coming since I don't think the servo and or the radio will run on 3.4 volts or at least not to their full potential. My hope is to possibly see some pictures of a chassis set up with a 1S and all the other electronics to see how they are laid out. Also do I need anything other than what I've mentioned? I am using a EZrun Hobbywing B1, ESC/brush-less non sensored motor. I planing to start with a 3.5:1 gear ratio. We run on a short concrete outdoor basketball court. When running it as an oval the drive-line is about 30 meters (98 ft,)
Any and all advice and suggestions will be most appreciated

avs

iTrader: (2)

with a 1/10 link style pan car you have a lot of room (and a lot of choices) to place electronics. i don't have current asphalt experience, but with medium good carpet traction the general trend is moving the weight to the centerline and forward. this means putting the speedo and receiver at the back behind the battery with the speedo on the opposite side of the servo to get balance with minimu offset from centerline. of course the receiver is much lighter than the speedo, battery, servo (these 3 are the most important for placement) you can put the receiver, booster and transponder where it makes sense for you, with only minor adjustment to the speedo (assuming you have no means to move the battery or servo from side to side)

if you have freedom of choice with tires (say purple/pink) then first find the tires you like then worry about fine tuning placement and springs etc. tire shore and diameter are the most significant tuning options.

i have no experience with your speedo(i do have a xerun v2 1s which i really like), but with another sensorless speedo (castle creations micro on a scalpel) i would sugget you to not be frustrated by the throttle response coming out of slow corners. once up to speed the sensorless controls are fine, but at low throttle settings they are a little unpredictable. (in oval racing where you never fully back off they might be great)

for example pictures here is a collection of fast setups

Josh Cyrul's wgt
[/QUOTE]

Chicky's wgt

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...759_414-2-.jpg

somebody i don't know, but a very popular layout for wgt

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...-gt3-image.jpg

Codfather

iTrader: (14)

Does anyone have any advice?

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Add 3 each 4-40 x 3/4" button head screws with lock nuts (nuts up) to better support the foam bumper. This will spread the impact out over more than just the two body posts. Mine are at front center and each end.

I did try a Kevlar bumper at one time; but, it transferred too much of a big impact to the 3 screws that secured it to the chassis plate.

I trimmed my CRC graphite plate to make sure that the foam bumper overhangs everywhere possible. That foam should be able to accept the brunt of major impacts.

Never lose in shunts with other WGT cars or barriers. Last time I had to change my front graphite bumper due to damage was a practice accident with a mod TC car maybe two years ago.

Bill

espresso1967

iTrader: (18)

Ok folks, thanks to Sean at TQ Racing, he encouraged me to get back into the hobby and he was very friendly. Thank you Sean if your out there.

With that said, I am starting from scratch, sold all my equipment four years ago. Need the following recommendations, I'll be running the CRC Gen X 10 LE:

1s lipo charger ( I had the Hyperion EOS 0720i Super Duo Dual) but not sure I need that if I am only going to run 1s lipo, recommendation please.

tire truer needed

esc

motor 13.5

radio/receiver( I have only known Spektrum 3.0)

Well that's just for starters, I'll get on building the kit this week.

Thanks

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Sean has a tire truer at TQ
Good charger pays dividends in 1s just like 2s

Sean should have everything you need

Don't be afraid to hit up any of the WGT racers at TQ for help

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Best setup tips at TQ should come from someone named Dave...He owns that track...Driving-wise...LOL

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Bill
You need to make another trip down south to TQ ...

That CRC of yours is gathering dust no doubt

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

But with all my money from not racing, I'm buying a motorhome to hopefully get to TQ now and then...Only 390 miles to my closest carpet track...TQ...LOL

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

I still love my Hyperion EOS 0720i Duo charger.

Use the one at TQ for now. Wait for a 'deal' on a good one.

I use Trinity Duo 3 13.5 from EA.

You can get by with the Spektrum equipment. Otherwise, I still love my KO Eurus radio and receivers.

And never stop changing your setup to determine what is best for you. Somebody needs to put it to Dave.

Bill

FL_SilverEvo8

iTrader: (14)

What weight shock oil and spring are most of you running? I hear the Red spring is a good one to use. But I can't seem to find the red(#8) one for sale any where. Is there another brand that matches this spring? Been trying to look for CRC's whole spring set (CLN3299). Can't find that ether.

vafactor

iTrader: (6)

I took an oversized piece of bumper foam and carved it with a dremel to fit fairly close to the inside shape of the front of my body (easiest to do while the body is clear so that you can set it on the car and see where the foam needs to be trimmed and how much......until the carved foam block fits the body shape well). To hold the carved foam in place on top of the graphite plate, i put holes all the way thru it in the locations of the two front body posts and I drilled body clip size holes in the body mounts so that extra body clips, positioned right on top of the foam block, hold it in place on the graphite. And I then also cut two old body posts off so that they are only little nubs about 3/8" tall. Those are screwed in place on the graphite bumper to create 2 more short positioning pins more towards the center of the car. then I drilled two little blind holes (that don't go all the way thru the foam block) to fit over the two little positioning nubs. This system is very light, very simple, looks nice, protects the chassis and the body well, and has proven to be very durable.

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

I use 30 wt shock oil in my center shock for both carpet and asphalt setups. This was the advice from Frank C and Dumper at one of the IIC carpet events. And I carried the same weight oil over to asphalt racing too. Check LE setup sheets to see that this is the norm for many WGT racers. You get a tube of 30 wt shock oil in the kit.

With a fairly standard carpet setup, I often start with the red center spring on my LE. Did you find one yet? Assuming your LE kit came with a Blue 6# center spring, I would also recommend having both the Red 8# and Purple 10# springs for your future setup needs.

The CRC part number for the Red 8# spring is #32993. Purple is #32995. Not sure why the #32993 part number is not working in the Search function on the CRC website; so, call John Firsching at CRC for help. John can get you hooked up.

Bill

FL_SilverEvo8

iTrader: (14)

My kit came with a Green(#9) center spring. I tried to order there spring kit that has all of them it in but they are not being made any more. They are making a new spring set. That is what they told me in a email. The only center springs I have are the Green, Purple, and an AE Gold. I am also using the shock oil that came with my kit.