CRC 1/10 Pan Car
#3091
Deleted
Last edited by Still Bill; 01-20-2013 at 10:02 AM.
#3092
SG1,
Now have one of my LEs prepped to your posted setup specs from the Champs race. Only thing not done is that I still have my steering servo reversed/forward; but, I can potentially move the battery rearwards (up to 1/2") to compensate for that weight-wise from front to rear. No local carpet track to test it on; but, I have our carpet regionals in LA in a few weeks.
This spring/geometry setup also appears to have good potential for asphalt racing. Will give it a shot there too.
Many thanks for your several posts about this. Great stuff!
Bill
Now have one of my LEs prepped to your posted setup specs from the Champs race. Only thing not done is that I still have my steering servo reversed/forward; but, I can potentially move the battery rearwards (up to 1/2") to compensate for that weight-wise from front to rear. No local carpet track to test it on; but, I have our carpet regionals in LA in a few weeks.
This spring/geometry setup also appears to have good potential for asphalt racing. Will give it a shot there too.
Many thanks for your several posts about this. Great stuff!
Bill
Last edited by Still Bill; 01-20-2013 at 10:04 AM.
#3093
SG1,
Now have one of my LEs prepped to your posted setup specs from the Champs race. Only thing not done is that I still have my steering servo reversed/forward; but, I can potentially move the battery rearwards (up to 1/2") to compensate for that weight-wise from front to rear. No local carpet track to test it on; but, I have our carpet regionals in LA in a few weeks.
This spring/geometry setup also appears to have good potential for asphalt racing. Will give it a shot there too.
Many thanks for your several posts about this. Great stuff!
Bill
Now have one of my LEs prepped to your posted setup specs from the Champs race. Only thing not done is that I still have my steering servo reversed/forward; but, I can potentially move the battery rearwards (up to 1/2") to compensate for that weight-wise from front to rear. No local carpet track to test it on; but, I have our carpet regionals in LA in a few weeks.
This spring/geometry setup also appears to have good potential for asphalt racing. Will give it a shot there too.
Many thanks for your several posts about this. Great stuff!
Bill
I'd try it with the servo as as and battery back just a bit, like you mentioned.
Let me know how things go for you!
-Wayne
PS I'll be running WGT this weekend and trying something else I've been thinking about
#3094
SG1,
Sorry that I missed your front weight distribution question last month. Front end is 420 grams with CRC 2.07" diameter tires, 1/12th king pins/springs, JR3650 servo and short battery leads (bullet connectors positioned towards rear of chassis).
I finally watched your posted video...AWESOME WIN. So, I will be rebuilding my second car with your setup to try at our upcoming regionals next month.
Wish me luck. Haven't raced any carpet or asphalt since April...
Cheers!
Bill
Sorry that I missed your front weight distribution question last month. Front end is 420 grams with CRC 2.07" diameter tires, 1/12th king pins/springs, JR3650 servo and short battery leads (bullet connectors positioned towards rear of chassis).
I finally watched your posted video...AWESOME WIN. So, I will be rebuilding my second car with your setup to try at our upcoming regionals next month.
Wish me luck. Haven't raced any carpet or asphalt since April...
Cheers!
Bill
I love that video The car turns!!
Good luck!
#3095
Tech Adept
Will there be anything new for the car being shown at the snowbird? Hoping for a kit with the new rear pod!!
#3096
Tech Addict
crc wgt kingpin 1/10
what the best place to measure and whats the length is should be using 1/10th scale kingpin?
#3097
I look at the gap between the stearing block and lower a-arm pivot, then make sure the chassis is sitting level.
I've had springs at different lengths, so making the kingpins the same length or measuring them didn't make sence to me..lol..
#3098
Tech Addict
adjusting side spring do i adjust till they just touch and then adjust to chassis tweak
the way i check for chassis tweak is i raise the front of the car at center point then spin both front wheels then lower the car to see what wheel touch first so if the right side touch first i adjust the left tweak spring and the same for the left wheel i do this until both spinning wheel seem to to touch at the same time. is this correct way? also it seem that the both wheel diameter has to be exact.
Last edited by bigtee; 01-21-2013 at 11:08 AM.
#3099
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
ok thanks i am using your setup takes some getting use too.
adjusting side spring do i adjust till they just touch and then adjust to chassis tweak
the way i check for chassis tweak is i raise the front of the car at center point then spin both front wheels then lower the car to see what wheel touch first so if the right side touch first i adjust the left tweak spring and the same for the left wheel i do this until both spinning wheel seem to to touch at the same time. is this correct way? also it seem that the both wheel diameter has to be exact.
adjusting side spring do i adjust till they just touch and then adjust to chassis tweak
the way i check for chassis tweak is i raise the front of the car at center point then spin both front wheels then lower the car to see what wheel touch first so if the right side touch first i adjust the left tweak spring and the same for the left wheel i do this until both spinning wheel seem to to touch at the same time. is this correct way? also it seem that the both wheel diameter has to be exact.
Last edited by joeymdz; 01-21-2013 at 09:53 PM.
#3100
On the 1/10th scale springs, some of the variance comes from the color-coded paint.
Using 1/10th scale king pins, the measurement typically starts at 0.606" where the king pin goes into the bottom of the steering block (on the axle side) to the bottom groove of the kingpin.
Using 1/12th scale king pins, this measurement would be 0.404" when done in the same manner.
This originally came from Dumper's Speed Shop (a couple years ago). But, he also made me throw away some of my measuring tools too...LOL
Bill
#3101
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Not to take away from what SG1 says; but, I match my spring lengths as much as possible.
On the 1/10th scale springs, some of the variance comes from the color-coded paint.
Using 1/10th scale king pins, the measurement typically starts at 0.606" where the king pin goes into the bottom of the steering block (on the axle side) to the bottom groove of the kingpin.
Using 1/12th scale king pins, this measurement would be 0.404" when done in the same manner.
This originally came from Dumper's Speed Shop (a couple years ago). But, he also made me throw away some of my measuring tools too...LOL
Bill
On the 1/10th scale springs, some of the variance comes from the color-coded paint.
Using 1/10th scale king pins, the measurement typically starts at 0.606" where the king pin goes into the bottom of the steering block (on the axle side) to the bottom groove of the kingpin.
Using 1/12th scale king pins, this measurement would be 0.404" when done in the same manner.
This originally came from Dumper's Speed Shop (a couple years ago). But, he also made me throw away some of my measuring tools too...LOL
Bill
#3102
I've gotten far more consistent on-track results adjusting the droop the way Wayne mentions. I've been doing it this way ever since the pro-strut front-end was released. Saves me the trouble of having to open multiple sets of springs and measure and match them all.
Iether way will work, I'm just old skewl like you!
#3103
I've gotten far more consistent on-track results adjusting the droop the way Wayne mentions. I've been doing it this way ever since the pro-strut front-end was released. Saves me the trouble of having to open multiple sets of springs and measure and match them all.
Do you guys ever use preload on the front or rear?
Bill
#3104
With the set up I have on, I guess you would say that the front springs are preloaded. I do have to push the spring retainer up to get the e-clip on. But when it sits under weight there's a slight sag (.01" or so between the stearing block and lower pivot).
The rear side springs may had 1/4 turn or less preload. I balance the chassis with the electronics as close as I can using scales, then use the rear side springs to make very small adjust (1 or 2 grams). If the chassis balance is more then that off I keep moving electronics around. I don't like to have uneven loading of the springs.
#3105
Hey Bill,
With the set up I have on, I guess you would say that the front springs are preloaded. I do have to push the spring retainer up to get the e-clip on. But when it sits under weight there's a slight sag (.01" or so between the stearing block and lower pivot).
The rear side springs may had 1/4 turn or less preload. I balance the chassis with the electronics as close as I can using scales, then use the rear side springs to make very small adjust (1 or 2 grams). If the chassis balance is more then that off I keep moving electronics around. I don't like to have uneven loading of the springs.
With the set up I have on, I guess you would say that the front springs are preloaded. I do have to push the spring retainer up to get the e-clip on. But when it sits under weight there's a slight sag (.01" or so between the stearing block and lower pivot).
The rear side springs may had 1/4 turn or less preload. I balance the chassis with the electronics as close as I can using scales, then use the rear side springs to make very small adjust (1 or 2 grams). If the chassis balance is more then that off I keep moving electronics around. I don't like to have uneven loading of the springs.
My cars are always balanced to the n'th degree components-wise. Fairly easy with a WGT.
Cheers!
Bill