CRC 1/10 Pan Car
#2702
hello team crc i am new to electric rc and i am trying to setp the hw xerun 120a 1s esc on my xi i am running a 17.5 revtech motor with a revtech 6200mah 70c 1s lipo pack i have up dated the 2 in 1 program box but don't know what versions to use. i also hooked up the esc to the program box while it hooked to usb and still dont know what versions to program into the esc. please if i can get some help on this. most of the guys where i will be running use either tekin or lrp so not getting much advise. so it was suggested that i try to find out more from crc since the esc is used by crc so can i please get some help on set up
thanks in advance
oh by the way i am new to this so i need a goods setup to start out with and keep up with the seasoned guys until i have a better understanding of the esc.
thanks again for any help
thanks in advance
oh by the way i am new to this so i need a goods setup to start out with and keep up with the seasoned guys until i have a better understanding of the esc.
thanks again for any help
If your running blinky use the "NO Timing" version.
If Boosted go to www.teamcrc.com and download the latest software and run v930.
hope this helps!
#2703
Thanks Max.
I needed to know that too.
Bill
I needed to know that too.
Bill
#2704
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
One thing I do at bumpy tracks is change the front kingpins and springs. I run the 1/10th scale springs with a kingpin length of .618. Then I will stack 1/12th scale springs with shims in between them. So from the steering block down it would be spring, shim (.010), spring, shim (.010) e-clip. I did this in Cleveland and it worked well. Doing this also allows you to change spring rates with a bunch of different combinations. In Cleveland I ran .55 on top of .50.
If I go to a bumpy track I will switch that out and go one step softer on center spring.
dumper
If I go to a bumpy track I will switch that out and go one step softer on center spring.
dumper
#2705
One thing I do at bumpy tracks is change the front kingpins and springs. I run the 1/10th scale springs with a kingpin length of .618. Then I will stack 1/12th scale springs with shims in between them. So from the steering block down it would be spring, shim (.010), spring, shim (.010) e-clip. I did this in Cleveland and it worked well. Doing this also allows you to change spring rates with a bunch of different combinations. In Cleveland I ran .55 on top of .50.
If I go to a bumpy track I will switch that out and go one step softer on center spring.
dumper
If I go to a bumpy track I will switch that out and go one step softer on center spring.
dumper
I saw you testing this; but, did not know it had worked out for you.
Good stuff!
Bill
#2706
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Just looking for some set-up info. Just got the new CRC WGT and will be running outdoors first on a smooth 1/8th gas track (kissimmee) and the following month a parking lot.
front spings? center Shock? side springs? Tires are 2.06.Motor D3. I have a set-up sheet but would like some imput or suggestions. Start building the car tommorow.
front spings? center Shock? side springs? Tires are 2.06.Motor D3. I have a set-up sheet but would like some imput or suggestions. Start building the car tommorow.
#2707
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Gen X pro 10 handling
I started to dump my CRC Gen x pro for another car, but CRC's did so well at the birds...maybe I'll work at it a little more. We have a great weekly WGT class at the local track. An A and B and sometimes a C class.
Here's my problem. This is a smooth carpet track and I can turn in fine, but push coming out of turns. I am running 1/12 kingpins with .55 springs, -5 camber works ok and if I go to a full -1 degree...pushes more. I run 1mm of rear droop. We have to run spec tires (BSR purple) saucing a 1/3 to 1/2 of the front tire gives me more grip than if I were to sauce 3/4. Running front axle in trailing position....tried trailing and neutral, not much difference.
I don't think it would take much to get it better, I just haven't hit on what it takes. Just looking for what some guy's are running to help push off.
Here's my problem. This is a smooth carpet track and I can turn in fine, but push coming out of turns. I am running 1/12 kingpins with .55 springs, -5 camber works ok and if I go to a full -1 degree...pushes more. I run 1mm of rear droop. We have to run spec tires (BSR purple) saucing a 1/3 to 1/2 of the front tire gives me more grip than if I were to sauce 3/4. Running front axle in trailing position....tried trailing and neutral, not much difference.
I don't think it would take much to get it better, I just haven't hit on what it takes. Just looking for what some guy's are running to help push off.
#2708
I started to dump my CRC Gen x pro for another car, but CRC's did so well at the birds...maybe I'll work at it a little more. We have a great weekly WGT class at the local track. An A and B and sometimes a C class.
Here's my problem. This is a smooth carpet track and I can turn in fine, but push coming out of turns. I am running 1/12 kingpins with .55 springs, -5 camber works ok and if I go to a full -1 degree...pushes more. I run 1mm of rear droop. We have to run spec tires (BSR purple) saucing a 1/3 to 1/2 of the front tire gives me more grip than if I were to sauce 3/4. Running front axle in trailing position....tried trailing and neutral, not much difference.
I don't think it would take much to get it better, I just haven't hit on what it takes. Just looking for what some guy's are running to help push off.
Here's my problem. This is a smooth carpet track and I can turn in fine, but push coming out of turns. I am running 1/12 kingpins with .55 springs, -5 camber works ok and if I go to a full -1 degree...pushes more. I run 1mm of rear droop. We have to run spec tires (BSR purple) saucing a 1/3 to 1/2 of the front tire gives me more grip than if I were to sauce 3/4. Running front axle in trailing position....tried trailing and neutral, not much difference.
I don't think it would take much to get it better, I just haven't hit on what it takes. Just looking for what some guy's are running to help push off.
Bill
#2709
I started to dump my CRC Gen x pro for another car, but CRC's did so well at the birds...maybe I'll work at it a little more. We have a great weekly WGT class at the local track. An A and B and sometimes a C class.
Here's my problem. This is a smooth carpet track and I can turn in fine, but push coming out of turns. I am running 1/12 kingpins with .55 springs, -5 camber works ok and if I go to a full -1 degree...pushes more. I run 1mm of rear droop. We have to run spec tires (BSR purple) saucing a 1/3 to 1/2 of the front tire gives me more grip than if I were to sauce 3/4. Running front axle in trailing position....tried trailing and neutral, not much difference.
I don't think it would take much to get it better, I just haven't hit on what it takes. Just looking for what some guy's are running to help push off.
Here's my problem. This is a smooth carpet track and I can turn in fine, but push coming out of turns. I am running 1/12 kingpins with .55 springs, -5 camber works ok and if I go to a full -1 degree...pushes more. I run 1mm of rear droop. We have to run spec tires (BSR purple) saucing a 1/3 to 1/2 of the front tire gives me more grip than if I were to sauce 3/4. Running front axle in trailing position....tried trailing and neutral, not much difference.
I don't think it would take much to get it better, I just haven't hit on what it takes. Just looking for what some guy's are running to help push off.
What shock spring are you running?
Which chassis are you running? (LE, Gen X, or Mcune)
Why are you running such a heavy front spring? ( I usually run a 50)
Are you running 1s or 2s?
And if it's 1s, where is the battery located? (front, back or side to side)
How much caster are you running?
#2710
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Gen x
I used to run McKune chassis but currently Gen X pro. I run 1s battery down the middle and forward. I talked to someone this morning that has so much steering in his crc that he has to dial some out.
I run the 10 degree block under the a arm...he runs a 5 degree.
I ordered a set of 0,5,10 degree blocks.
I ordered a .50 springs for the front and red side springs for the back.
The friends car that turns well runs the 10th scale king pins, where as I run the 1 1/2 scale, but ordered the other springs for that.
I usually run my tires fairly straight or with the slightest amount of toe in.
I run a red spring on my center shock and I usually don't put much pressure on my center shock.
I run the 10 degree block under the a arm...he runs a 5 degree.
I ordered a set of 0,5,10 degree blocks.
I ordered a .50 springs for the front and red side springs for the back.
The friends car that turns well runs the 10th scale king pins, where as I run the 1 1/2 scale, but ordered the other springs for that.
I usually run my tires fairly straight or with the slightest amount of toe in.
I run a red spring on my center shock and I usually don't put much pressure on my center shock.
#2711
I used to run McKune chassis but currently Gen X pro. I run 1s battery down the middle and forward. I talked to someone this morning that has so much steering in his crc that he has to dial some out.
I run the 10 degree block under the a arm...he runs a 5 degree.
I ordered a set of 0,5,10 degree blocks.
I ordered a .50 springs for the front and red side springs for the back.
The friends car that turns well runs the 10th scale king pins, where as I run the 1 1/2 scale, but ordered the other springs for that.
I usually run my tires fairly straight or with the slightest amount of toe in.
I run a red spring on my center shock and I usually don't put much pressure on my center shock.
I run the 10 degree block under the a arm...he runs a 5 degree.
I ordered a set of 0,5,10 degree blocks.
I ordered a .50 springs for the front and red side springs for the back.
The friends car that turns well runs the 10th scale king pins, where as I run the 1 1/2 scale, but ordered the other springs for that.
I usually run my tires fairly straight or with the slightest amount of toe in.
I run a red spring on my center shock and I usually don't put much pressure on my center shock.
#2713
What length of side links are you using on that Pro chassis?
Have you ever placed washers under the front ball joints of the side links to give the car some "rear steer"?
Get the LE chassis upgrade. Lighter, more tuneable and often eliminates the potential for chassis tweek created by fastening the trap door for the battery.
Bill
#2715