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Old 01-26-2008, 07:25 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by 94eg! View Post
I'll say it again in case the OP didn't read it the first time...

You get a couple hundred dollars worth of hop-ups for only $50 extra. That is basically the eBay price of TRF shocks. The R simply cannot be beat. Contact RC Champ for the release date...

Plus, all the extras you have to buy to finish the R (tires, pinions, etc), would have to be replaced on a standard TA05 anyways...

***edit: The static issue is due to carbon parts being mixed with a glass chassis. Common stuff in snowboards as well. All you need to do is run a tiny wire from the carbon front bulk-head, to the motor mount. This allows static to bypass the servo...
I *did* read it the first time, he he he. I guess my thing is just because it has more stuff, doesn't necessarily make it better for my application. I think for a high grip appication, the R would definitely be better. For the low grip surface I'll be running on, the more flex of the standard TA05 could turn out to be a positive thing. Heck, the top qualifier and A main first place finisher runs a box stock TA05-IFS, with the only option parts being a front 1 way, rear stabilizer bar, and bearings in the steering (vs bushings the stock kit comes with).

That's all I was really saying. I agree with you 100% that the R is hands down the better value when you add up all the stuff it comes with. My thing was, if I wasn't going to add that stuff, is it really a better value for my application?

That's where I keep getting hung up, he he he.

Oh, btw, what do you mean to check with RC Champ for the release date? My LHS got one in yesterday and it was $194 out the door. Came in a very plain looking orange cardboard box, with a sticker on the side of it, and "TA05-R" printed on the top with a brief description of the option parts included with the kit.

Is it not supposed to be out yet?



- Paulie

Last edited by pgeldz; 01-26-2008 at 07:54 AM.
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Old 01-26-2008, 12:06 PM   #32
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Good point about getting what would be best for you. I guess your gonna have to trust your gut instinct on this one...

As for the release date, I mention that because Tamiya is re-releasing the TA05-R, as it was only a limited edition to begin with (49*** kit number). Many stores still have stock from the initial run, but you most likely won't find them at the super discount prices of HK stores that sell out right away. Of course $194 total is a great price for a LHS. I'm guessing it would cost that much from RC Champ once they tack on shipping & fees.

Good luck...
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Old 01-26-2008, 06:58 PM   #33
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If you are absolutely sure you will not spend more than $50 on options, go for the regular one. At least buy the front universals because you don't want the race to end early due to a dog bone popping out from a crash. Also be aware that the chassis is exactly the same material, so flex is not an issue.

Also, if you don't buy hex screws, be sure to use caution when building/maintenance because you will strip those phillips heads. Something about tamiya screws (flat head especially) are not designed for standard phillips drivers... Once you go hex, you will never go back. My mini/tt01 are converted to hex too.

I'm sure most of you know this, but soak all the bearings in motor spray overnight to get all the grease out. Tamiya uses a rather thick grease. Once cleaned, apply 0wt motor oil and you have a almost frictionless bearing. Some people go dry, but that's only if you are prepared to swap out bearings every 2-3 races. But this process alone will give you a noticable speed increase.
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Old 01-26-2008, 08:07 PM   #34
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Hmm, I'm guessing since my LHS just got the R version in the other day, it may be a re-released version, as he hadn't had one in a very long time.

Do you guys know if the re-released version may be different in some way?

And about the R version being stiffer, I thought it was supposed to be because it comes with all the carbon reinforced bits. I was at the LHS yesterday and held the both shock towers in my hands. The regular version was very flexy, and the R version's carbon reinforced ones were noticable stiffer.

For some reason, I still get hung up on the fact that the R version has that notice about the static build up problem. I don't really want to run the carbon reinforced chassis, and I'd rather not use the Ko Propo wire fix. Since I just can't for the life of me make up my mind, I did a comparason when I was at the LHS. The conversion rate changed so here's how it broke down:

TA05

Kit w/NSX body - $119
Front 1-way - $33
Carbon steering plate w/bearings - $16
Aluminum steering belllcrank w/bearings - $20
Carbon reinforced shock towers from "R" version - $6
Front universals - $20

TA05 total price the way I want it = $204

Pro's

- for the parts I want in it, it's cheaper than the R version
- not as fragile as the R version because it doesn't have the LW suspension
- possible more flex may be benificial for low grip surface I'll be racing on
- don't have to worry about the static build up problem

Con's

- the moment I add additional option parts, the R becomes a better value
- heavy
- Not sure if the NSX body is the "best" for my class



TA05-R

kit - $194
Tamiya body of my choice - $26
Front 1-way - $33
Carbon steering plate w/bearings - $16
Aluminum steering belllcrank w/bearings - $20

TA05-R total price the way I want it = $289

Difference in price = $85

Pro's

- I can choose the best body for the course
- ligher weight
- better value if I was going to add those option parts to the standard car

Con's

- not as strong due to lightweight suspension
- static build up problem (have to either use the carbon chassis, or wire fix)
- if it is stiffer, could be a negitiave on the low grip surface I'll be racing on

So that's what I'm working with. What would be the best Tamiya body on a low grip surface?

To be totally honest, the difference of $85 is pretty minimal considering I'll be spending close to $800 total when you start adding in charger, discharger, batteries, power supply, hi-end servo, etc.

After reading all that I just typed, the R does seem like the better value now. I'm really hung up on the static problem though cause if I were to buy the carbon chassis, it brings the total price of the R the way I want to $326 (the carbon reinforced chassis is $37)

Then I have to ask, if I were to spend $326, would I still be getting the TA05, in any version, in the first place? I might as well be looking at the TRF414, but I really wanted a tub chassis to protect the electronics (the drivers skill level where Ill be racing at varies a great deal).

So that's my dilema in a nutshell. ARGGHH!!!



- Paulie
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Old 01-26-2008, 08:31 PM   #35
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You seem to be in a tight situation there The chassis makes the biggest difference in terms of flex, and I seriously think you won't feel that much difference with shock tower flex. It is more important to set up the suspension to accomodate for control tires on a normal surface. sways are generally not needed for situations like that. Double oneway seems to be a favorite choice for TGP racers since it adds more to top speed.

As far as bodies go, the NSX is the top choice for most racers. It has a low cg, balanced aerodynamics, and looks cool. Car handles better with that body. I think at one point the body was banned (TGP) since the races were turning into a "NSX" class. Then the next popular body was the SC430.

Either way you go, stick with the TA05 series. At stock speeds, it is VERY capable.

After all this typing, we hope you will post your completed car one day
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Old 01-26-2008, 08:40 PM   #36
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Ok, let me ask you this...

If, and it's a big if - I got the carbon reinforced chassis to aleviate the static problem with the R version, do you think that would help me or hurt me on a low grip surface?

Also, at what point does the regular verion have teh static problem as well? In other words, is there a single part on the R version that causes the static problem, and if I got that part and added it to the standard version would it have the static problem also?

I'd hate to just get the regular version to avoid the static problem and then get option parts that will make it have the problem anyway. If that's the case, I'll definitely get the R version from the get go...

Hmm...

- Paulie
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Old 01-26-2008, 09:24 PM   #37
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First of all let's address your fear of static. Do you plan to use metal geared servos with the aramid belts, carbon K and N parts? Guess what, none of the type Rs I race with on CARPET has ever has a "mechanical trouble when interfering with RC system with low static resistance." This is a quote from the Tamiya manual.

We race on carpet in dry winter air in the Midwest USA and no one has static problems (except a few years ago with the first batch of Spektrum receivers in any car). I think you are overblowing this "possible" problem way out of proportion. Also you will be using it outdoors on asphalt or concrete where very little static charge will build up unlike carpet.

Second, the TA05 and the TA05R use the SAME chassis. As far a flex goes, do you plan on racing on a very rough and bumpy track? Then some chassis flex is good but shock tower flex is bad. Don't think you can see the difference between the CVA shocks to the TRF shocks, think again. Huge difference. Spend the money to set up your suspension. Think the LW reversable suspension is fragile, think again because it is the same as used on the TA04 and the TA05-IFS. Very durable and reduces unsprung weight, again think suspension set up. I have a spare set of arms that I never needed in three months of racing each week on a rather unforgiving track that has chewed up several Associated TC3 and TC5, X-ray and Corally arms.

Still you have the right to choose what you want to do regardless of the advice that current users are giving you. You pay your money and take your chances.

A couple of the fastest TA05 pilots in my area use both the NSX and Ferrari bodies with equal success.
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Old 01-26-2008, 09:57 PM   #38
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First of all let's address your fear of static. Do you plan to use metal geared servos with the aramid belts, carbon K and N parts? Guess what, none of the type Rs I race with on CARPET has ever has a "mechanical trouble when interfering with RC system with low static resistance." This is a quote from the Tamiya manual.

We race on carpet in dry winter air in the Midwest USA and no one has static problems (except a few years ago with the first batch of Spektrum receivers in any car). I think you are overblowing this "possible" problem way out of proportion. Also you will be using it outdoors on asphalt or concrete where very little static charge will build up unlike carpet.
I'm sure I'm over anaylizing the whole thing, but yes, I will be using a metal gear servo. I know what you're saying, and I agree with you - it probably won't affect me with rubber tires outdoors. In all the years I've been in R/C (used to race nitros competitively the first time I was in Japan), I've never heard a company putting out a "notice" like Tamiya did about the static issue, even though there has to be many other cars with certain combinations of parts to cause the same problem. Either way, I still agree, it mostly likely won't affect me at all.

Quote:

Second, the TA05 and the TA05R use the SAME chassis. As far a flex goes, do you plan on racing on a very rough and bumpy track? Then some chassis flex is good but shock tower flex is bad.
Well, I thought the carbon K parts that comes with the R version make the chassis stiffer, no? So yes, same chassis, but the different braces in the R version make it stiffer (so I thought). If not, than what's the purpose of the carbon K parts in the first place? Are they lighter? If so, I didn't know that.

Based off of all the information thus far, I think I may end up getting the R version.

A few more things...what else would make a DIFFERENCE in speed? I heard guys that are using a front 1-way with the addition of a center 1 way get more top speed and even more steering. Is that true?

I thought most people choose the front 1 way for more steering under braking, and more traction under acceleration (because it acts like a spool under power). If they want that effect but to a lesser extent, they go for the center 1 way instead because it gives you the ability to tune your front ball diff. I've never heard of having both though...

- Paulie
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Old 01-26-2008, 10:13 PM   #39
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Well, I thought the carbon K parts that comes with the R version make the chassis stiffer, no? So yes, same chassis, but the different braces in the R version make it stiffer (so I thought). If not, than what's the purpose of the carbon K parts in the first place? Are they lighter? If so, I didn't know that.


I thought most people choose the front 1 way for more steering under braking, and more traction under acceleration (because it acts like a spool under power). If they want that effect but to a lesser extent, they go for the center 1 way instead because it gives you the ability to tune your front ball diff. I've never heard of having both though...

- Paulie
The K parts give the chassis a little more torsional stiffness, a little more. This helps the car in transitions, going from turn to turn rapidly. The forward/rear stiffness is unaffected. The weight savings is miniscule.

Front one-ways make braking in a turn impossible. Only the rea wheels brake and if the surface is loose then you'll be swapping ends in no time. The one-way is an excellent tuning device for fast, sweeping high traction tracks where you brake very little. Yhey freewheel into the turn and grab hard accelerating out of the turn. On a tight technical track you will be better off with a diff. Spools make the car understeer and scrub off speed in the turns.
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Old 01-26-2008, 10:25 PM   #40
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Front one-ways make braking in a turn impossible. Only the rea wheels brake and if the surface is loose then you'll be swapping ends in no time. The one-way is an excellent tuning device for fast, sweeping high traction tracks where you brake very little. Yhey freewheel into the turn and grab hard accelerating out of the turn.
Ahh, got it. I think the track is sorta in the middle. A little mix of both. When I said the front 1 way gives you more steering under braking, I probably shold have said more steering under coasting, if you adjust yoru nuetral brake setting to help rather hinder. Not sure if that'll work or not, but that was my understanding.

With that said, I've never tried a front 1 way before. A lot of my friends used them in their cars, and I've always had normal diffs (and I was usually faster). All the guys at this track (all the fast guys anyway) use the front 1 way. Maybe I'll just see how competitive I'll be with the normal diffs, and if I can keep up, I'll have saved the $33, he he he.

What's the deal with the center 1 way though? What affect does IT have?

- Paulie
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Old 01-26-2008, 11:48 PM   #41
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Hey Paulie, I'm from Okinawa (half breed). Graduated high school there at Kadena AFB back in '90. I started racing rc cars there back around '85. When I was in the air force I was stationed at Kadena from 96-98 and racing touring cars. Where and who is sponsoring the racing you are gonna do? Is it TopRun? The lady from Naha. Or is it Okinawa RC on high 58? Are you racing at the Chibana tennis courts out side of Gate 3? Just curious. What is your racing surface? I race in the TCS series here in the states. I've won GT1 and GT2 in Maryland.

In GT2 I used a TA05 I basically built ground up. Only thing left from stock was maybe a screw or 2. Maybe some hinge pins or something. But it was over kill. This year I will buy a box stock TA05 IFS 2007 NSX and race it in GT2 class. I will only upgrade the dog bones for CVD/universals. And maybe the diffs for an aluminum rear diff and a front spool/rigid axle. And I'll have a go at it for fun. (Does the IFS come with dogbones or does it come with universals??)

I'm sure it was mentioned here (I haven't read every single post), you are working with 2 different suspensions going from a TA05 vs TA05R/IFS. The TA05 suspension will be bullet proof basically. Very strong. The TA05R/IFS uses the LW long suspension that will break easier. The TA05 uses larger bearings (5x11) which are more durable. The TA05R/IFS using the LW suspension uses smaller bearings (5x9) which tends to need more care. And they can damage rather quickly if abused.

If I were you, and wanted to save money.... I would get a regular TA05. Then buy a universal set front and rear (steel front aluminum rear). Rear aluminum diff (smooth as butter). For the front either spool/direct axle or oneway. If you use a spool/rigid axle, ask if you can use the 415 delrin outdrives and aluminum sleeves. This to me smooths out and adds more steering vs. the steel outdrives that come with the TA05 rigid axle. And of course some bearings for the steering. (Or get the aluminum steering rack and the graphite steering plate.) Other than that... a tuned spring set or 2 and you are done. Oh and aluminum wheel hexes for convenience (try 5mm set). Oh, and another convenience item.... Ti screw set! Otherwise you are stuck with phillips head screws. If you stick with kit screws, I would pre-thread all your plastic holes. Otherwise you may strip out the phillips head screws. Just something to consider. Make sure you have the proper size phillip screw driver if you stick with kit screws.

If I remember correctly, traction in Okinawa isn't that great. I would listen to the local racers on how they prep their tires. Especially with all that humidity and coral dust there. Maybe use some Tire Tweak and or Buggy Grip. Snap some pictures for me if you can. Post them here or mail them to me at [email protected]. I went by Mike when I raced out there. Had a lot of fun. Wish I could go back. Beautify island. I'm sure a lot has changed since I left.

If you need any more help, feel free to ask. I still have family there (my moms half). And also some friends still live on the island. One of my best friends that still lives there used to race touring cars. But hasn't done it in a year due to work load/schedule. He raced my old 415MSX. Anyways, have fun! And don't go over board on the RC hopups!!! (yeah right.. coming from me a car whore haha)
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Old 01-27-2008, 12:29 AM   #42
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Hey Paulie, I'm from Okinawa (half breed). Graduated high school there at Kadena AFB back in '90. I started racing rc cars there back around '85. When I was in the air force I was stationed at Kadena from 96-98 and racing touring cars. Where and who is sponsoring the racing you are gonna do? Is it TopRun? The lady from Naha. Or is it Okinawa RC on high 58? Are you racing at the Chibana tennis courts out side of Gate 3? Just curious. What is your racing surface? I race in the TCS series here in the states. I've won GT1 and GT2 in Maryland.

In GT2 I used a TA05 I basically built ground up. Only thing left from stock was maybe a screw or 2. Maybe some hinge pins or something. But it was over kill. This year I will buy a box stock TA05 IFS 2007 NSX and race it in GT2 class. I will only upgrade the dog bones for CVD/universals. And maybe the diffs for an aluminum rear diff and a front spool/rigid axle. And I'll have a go at it for fun. (Does the IFS come with dogbones or does it come with universals??)

I'm sure it was mentioned here (I haven't read every single post), you are working with 2 different suspensions going from a TA05 vs TA05R/IFS. The TA05 suspension will be bullet proof basically. Very strong. The TA05R/IFS uses the LW long suspension that will break easier. The TA05 uses larger bearings (5x11) which are more durable. The TA05R/IFS using the LW suspension uses smaller bearings (5x9) which tends to need more care. And they can damage rather quickly if abused.

If I were you, and wanted to save money.... I would get a regular TA05. Then buy a universal set front and rear (steel front aluminum rear). Rear aluminum diff (smooth as butter). For the front either spool/direct axle or oneway. If you use a spool/rigid axle, ask if you can use the 415 delrin outdrives and aluminum sleeves. This to me smooths out and adds more steering vs. the steel outdrives that come with the TA05 rigid axle. And of course some bearings for the steering. (Or get the aluminum steering rack and the graphite steering plate.) Other than that... a tuned spring set or 2 and you are done. Oh and aluminum wheel hexes for convenience (try 5mm set). Oh, and another convenience item.... Ti screw set! Otherwise you are stuck with phillips head screws. If you stick with kit screws, I would pre-thread all your plastic holes. Otherwise you may strip out the phillips head screws. Just something to consider. Make sure you have the proper size phillip screw driver if you stick with kit screws.

If I remember correctly, traction in Okinawa isn't that great. I would listen to the local racers on how they prep their tires. Especially with all that humidity and coral dust there. Maybe use some Tire Tweak and or Buggy Grip. Snap some pictures for me if you can. Post them here or mail them to me at [email protected]. I went by Mike when I raced out there. Had a lot of fun. Wish I could go back. Beautify island. I'm sure a lot has changed since I left.

If you need any more help, feel free to ask. I still have family there (my moms half). And also some friends still live on the island. One of my best friends that still lives there used to race touring cars. But hasn't done it in a year due to work load/schedule. He raced my old 415MSX. Anyways, have fun! And don't go over board on the RC hopups!!! (yeah right.. coming from me a car whore haha)
Great to hear from you Mike!

Yeah, ya know that track in Chibana? Me and a few friends of mine were the ones who started it back in '95. It's still here! I used to race an HPI Nitro RS4 there all the time, and I knew Emiko as well at Top Run and competed in her races as well. She just closed down her shop on Dec 17th though. Said she was getting old and wanted to retire. Man, she was the best.

Now, there are basically 3 places to go on the island...

Hobby shop Siro:

Basically took all the business from Top Run when he opened. Great prices (cheapest anywhere, and comparable to Hong Kong mail order prices). Stocks everything you could ever want for Tamiya, Yokomo, and Kyosho Mini Z's. Took over the Yomitan track from Emiko/Top Run. That's where I'll be racing in the Tamiya class btw. Dedicated parking lot type asphalt track.

X Hobbies (on 58):

Does the races at Chibana. 1/10th scale nitro w/foams (ala Mugen MTX-4R). Also does 1/10 electrics with foams tires specially made by Active Hobbies for this Okinawa track (since their headquarters is on the second floor of the bldg). Stocks most items people brake for Tamiya, Kyosho, Mugen, and Yokomo. Does a bit with the big HPI Baja buggy, and also some rock crawler stuff. Not too much stuff on hand though. Usually has to order anything I need. Does r/c drifting on the roof.

T-Slide:

A drift-only R/C shop that opened up a couple of months ago out Gate 2 on BC street. Stocks a lot of Tamiya and Yokomo stuff, as well as Eagle Racing and 3Racing.

I actually got into the R/C thing again for drifting. It's blowing up over here. I did the nitro touring car thing already, and figured it was time for something different. Drifting is extremely fun, teaches you car control, and you can do it just about anywhere. I even managed to start a new event besides the normal D1 type contests...I call it - Drift-Khana. If you know what Gymkhana is than you can just imagine it with r/c drift cars. It's crazy. Were having the first ever Drift-Khana event this Friday!

I actually got a Yokomo for drifting and optioned it out to suit my drifting style. Entered the first ever drift r/c event at Yomitan and qualified 2nd for the 23T and over class! Made it to the A-main first time out, but got the jitters and missed a lot of my clipping points. Here's a quick vid of what helped me make the A-main in the first place:

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...96521660501126

It's so much harder than it looks it's not even funny. I was doing ithat with a 27T Yok drift motor, where everyone else was using 23T's, so it felt pretty good to be at the top level with these guys, he he he.

Anyhoo, back to the TA05...

When I was at the drift event, I just got hooked to feel what it would be like to race touring cars again. There are 3 aveenues to do EP touring car racing here...

1) Tamiya class at Yomitan - Probably Japan's version of the TCS races. Have to use Tamiya everything - chassis, tires, 25T motor, body, and 3700mah limit (stick pack only).

2) 23T class at Yomitan - basically anything goes chassis wise, with a 23T limit, 3700mah battery limit (side packs ok), and rubber tires. I'm actually going to go against the grain and set up my Yokomo for this class as well. I used to have a TC3 and the Yok is quite similar. I think I can be competitive with it - we'll see though.

3) Chibana - 23T motor limit, and special Active Hobbies foam tires. I thought of racing my Yok there as well when I set it up for grip.

That's pretty much the scene here. I can't wait! Now if I can just figure out what I want to do about the TA05???



- Paulie
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Old 01-27-2008, 01:16 AM   #43
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WoW! TopRun closed!!! Hard to believe I guess because I used to go to her shop back in the 80's when I raced offroad 4wd as a kid. She moved shop around a lot. I'll have to tell my friend she closed down. He will be shocked!! But I can understand I guess. She's been doin it for so long. I can't imagine how old she is now.

Gymkhana sounds like a cool idea for drift competition. Easy setup actually. Just need a few Yokomo cones. I still have my cones that I setup in the post office parking lot on Kadena to practice with my touring cars.

I never did Gymkhana on oki. I always raced Takoyama or just up and down 58. Sometimes go to Aja or Henza. Ahhh yeah.... the good ole days. You suck by the way for being there... LoL

Keep me posted on what/how you do!
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Old 01-27-2008, 07:06 AM   #44
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Hey Jimmy you might get some company this year at the TCS in Md. I'm thinking of building a TA05R for the TCS this year to run either GT2 or GT1 and possibly both but as long as it is a good date for me I hope to run this years TCS.
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Old 01-27-2008, 08:52 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pgeldz View Post
Hmm, I'm guessing since my LHS just got the R version in the other day, it may be a re-released version, as he hadn't had one in a very long time.

TA05

Kit w/NSX body - $119
Front 1-way - $33
Carbon steering plate w/bearings - $16
Aluminum steering belllcrank w/bearings - $20
Carbon reinforced shock towers from "R" version - $6
Front universals - $20

TA05 total price the way I want it = $204

Pro's

- for the parts I want in it, it's cheaper than the R version
- not as fragile as the R version because it doesn't have the LW suspension
- possible more flex may be benificial for low grip surface I'll be racing on
- don't have to worry about the static build up problem

Con's

- the moment I add additional option parts, the R becomes a better value
- heavy
- Not sure if the NSX body is the "best" for my class



TA05-R

kit - $194
Tamiya body of my choice - $26
Front 1-way - $33
Carbon steering plate w/bearings - $16
Aluminum steering belllcrank w/bearings - $20

TA05-R total price the way I want it = $289

Difference in price = $85

Pro's

- I can choose the best body for the course
- ligher weight
- better value if I was going to add those option parts to the standard car

Con's

- not as strong due to lightweight suspension
- static build up problem (have to either use the carbon chassis, or wire fix)
- if it is stiffer, could be a negitiave on the low grip surface I'll be racing on


- Paulie
Paulie....I don't want to sound crazy, but if you believe upgrading the stock TA05 pertaining to "YOUR" specification is cheaper and better then using the stock TA05R........then I can GARANTEE you that you will spend a lot more money AFTER upgrading your TA05 to the $190 mark then you will keep adding option and parts..I myself is NOT the only 05R owner, I bought (3) R version the day it came out from RC Champ and I don't own TAMIYA before. I got the R because it is one of those "CRAZY NOT TO BUY" if you want the TA05 version kinda car.

You mentioned the LW is NOT STRONG.........ah...HOW? I have my R and I stock all the necessary parts for all of my car, like arms and knuckles and belts...I have 2 packs of new LW arms F and R for almost 1 year now, both package are COLLECTING DUST since. I ran my 05R with 3.5 OUTDOOR with 1/8th cars and get PUNCH OUT to the track mulitple times...the R broke NOTHING on those cases. I broke only 1 parts more then 1 time...the steering knuckles...thats all, very common for TC and I dont' expect my $200 toy car will be any exception. Then...my belt, after 3.5, 13.5, stock 27T, on rubber outdoor, indoor, foam indoor carpet....I better expect my belt get loose and need to change...

Really...thats all I have broke. Almost 1 year of using, and I don't BABY my RC car, I beat the crap out of it. And thats why I want the TA05R cause it use TUB...not those facny carbon chassis like the MS version.

Those steering option thingy that you have mention........please, one word, BLING...useless. OK...not useless..just BLING.

You want to race TCS without the TRF shocks...? Dream on.....

You don't need fancy shock towers...not even the R one. Shock tower is shock tower, do nothing except looks better UNLESS it does give you more shock position THAT you are going to use.

Static build up....ah, I think, that happened to me 1 time when I was racing outdoor with like 12-13 cars running outside without radio freq. control....car went stop, then slowly drive straight and stop again. Turn off radio speedo, turn it back on....never a problem since. And if you think the tub does build up static...I ran CARPET most of the time. CARPET build up 100TIMES more static then the tub. But our R has never gave us any glitching problem...again, almost 1 year of running, not a problem like TAMIYA mentioned. They said carbon tub will work...for me, if there are no problem, why fix...

Beside, check the TA05 thread, someone install a wire and GROUND the chassis, problem solved...1 wire = 5 cents?

I don't know HOW you can tell TA05R is stiffer then TA05....by how much? Tub car...suppose to be stiff, and you are NOT going to tell the diff no matter HOW you do it...it is a LOW END TC car...don't compare that to XRAY.

Yes...you should stock a set of STOCK TA05 arms for outdoor use, like Team Driver use the stock arm for their 416. Like what...$20?

My cost so far for the R...less then $300 including the Mobile SC430. $50 of parts are spare that I am still NOT using...from almost a year ago. The R is a tank, and it is probably the BEST INVESTMENT ever in my 24 years of RC. Llike I have mentioned, that TRF $50 shocks is the TOP NOTCH ITEM of all the RC brand that I have ever build. I willl invest the shocks WAY before the 1-way....

We raced the R with the 13.5 PRO motor, alot faster then the 23T, so the R can defintiely handle the speed and torque. Also, our R (G12367 and myself and the other guy here in Rctech) can use the R to race against top cars like Mi3, TC5, 007 008 Phi....however, I said, we can HANG with them, not beating them. Just to tell you HOW GOOD is the R. Not to mention, rubber, foams, indoor, outdoor....without changing chassis, upper deck, shocks, or even arms...just setting and diff/1-way/spool...and OFF and GO. I am going to race the R on upcoming TCS @ Trackside (2 weeks)...my car, right now, is capable to run on GT2 AND GT1...I care the less it is a tub car, but lap time don't lie...it is capable to run against 415 416 or MS chassis.....

Tub chassis does not protect your electronic a lot more then carbon fiber chassis. You choose tub chassis because you don't want to buy the $$$ carbon fiber chassis, right..? I choose to buy R because it is cheap, because I want it to be cheap, so I can even run OFF ROAD if I want to....I use the Mi3 for the more serious races. R is definitely for all my TCS RACE...and the most important reason...I can race her in GT1 to GT3 class, no problem...but you CANNOT use the 414 or 416 on GT2 and GT3...

My last advise....buy the R and run it. Then upgrade the 1-way (already proved it is a good option for low-turn motor use) body (try SC430, not the lay down front shock bling bling version) Type A tires, Stock TA05 arm set. If you have extra cash, get the rear aluminum upright (prefer -1 degree) I think those are the EVO 4 option and THATS IT

....you are planning this like your career, or getting marry, or buying a $1 million house...please. You even plan about the STATIC problem when I am still looking forward to experince myself...

P.S......Tamiya re release the HOTSHOT almost 20 years later, I don't think TA05R has been released 20 years already....it still selling over JAPAN. US does not has it does not mean they are discontinued. Check out Tamiya USA.

Last edited by Solara; 01-27-2008 at 09:15 AM.
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