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Old 01-22-2010, 09:06 PM
  #11326  
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The big turnbuckle is aluminium and rather long at that so i think pretty fragile (and once bent it will break when you try to straighten it). You could get a long lunsford turnbuckle (titanium) which would most likely be overkill or use a little steel turnbuckle if you have one lying around (I have plenty of these) and an extender. I used a hex threaded standoff (brass) to connect the right hand threaded end of the turnbuckle to the 3mm extender steel rod and high grade loctite to hold them in place so when I adjust the turnbuckle the connection doesn't come undone. Works a treat and a lot more solid than the flimsy tamiya contraption.
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Old 01-22-2010, 09:45 PM
  #11327  
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k_bojar,

I am using the Tamiya MO5 Pro steering turnbuckle with my Tamiya alloy steering rack with no problems. I did replace the turnbuckle ends with the low friction half ball cups at each end though. I also use the low friction 5mm ball studs on the steering rack and servo.

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Calvin.
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Old 01-23-2010, 09:28 AM
  #11328  
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Originally Posted by MikeXray
someone have a pic of a mini without a body at normal ride height? I'm trying to work out my servo saver/turnbuckles and I cant find the right setup that doesn't snag on the chassis.
do these help?? this is a M03 with stock C-Hubs, aluminum knuckles, heavy-duty servo saver and tamiya turnbuckles.

i can take some more if you like - the car doesn't have its battery in
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya mini cooper-tamiyam03_frontend-001.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-tamiyam03_frontend-002.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-tamiyam03_frontend-003.jpg  
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Old 01-23-2010, 09:32 AM
  #11329  
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Originally Posted by caltek1
k_bojar,

I am using the Tamiya MO5 Pro steering turnbuckle with my Tamiya alloy steering rack with no problems. I did replace the turnbuckle ends with the low friction half ball cups at each end though. I also use the low friction 5mm ball studs on the steering rack and servo.

Regards,

Calvin.
cool - i switched to the lo-friction ones on my setup, but i just have the threaded rod, not the turnbuckle (forgot to order it)
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Old 01-23-2010, 08:41 PM
  #11330  
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Originally Posted by jcr
just got this message from a race organizer, was wondering which body is this?



HPI Civic? or Tamiya Swift?

it is the express mrr2 body
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Old 01-23-2010, 11:36 PM
  #11331  
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Have just recently purchased an M05 and running it in Medium length and installed a Tamiya 18t brushless motor with a 60amp HW speedo I had and lipo.
Have installed the 3racing ball diff/shocks and some other bits and peices and like the way it handles but running against TCs with 27t or better motors and getting smoked on the straights..small outdoor technical track and lucky it doesnt have long straights but what can I do to get more top end out of it and would a lower turn brushless help as restricted obviously to 20 pinion and top end now isnt much more than my M03 with silver can ... as can make any mods I want to as no restrictions to rulz...just want to keep up with the TCs as reakon I can out drive them
Thanks.
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Old 01-23-2010, 11:40 PM
  #11332  
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How many have ran the standard 55mm tires (Xpress Mini tires) in the rear and 60D tires in the front of their M03? I did that today at the race and people thought I was crazy.... but that tire combo worked for me Any real disadvantage doing that?
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Old 01-23-2010, 11:45 PM
  #11333  
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Originally Posted by malcnz
Have just recently purchased an M05 and running it in Medium length and installed a Tamiya 18t brushless motor with a 60amp HW speedo I had and lipo.
Have installed the 3racing ball diff/shocks and some other bits and peices and like the way it handles but running against TCs with 27t or better motors and getting smoked on the straights..small outdoor technical track and lucky it doesnt have long straights but what can I do to get more top end out of it and would a lower turn brushless help as restricted obviously to 20 pinion and top end now isnt much more than my M03 with silver can ... as can make any mods I want to as no restrictions to rulz...just want to keep up with the TCs as reakon I can out drive them
Thanks.
Search the web for the Tobee Craft gear set. It allows a bigger pinion and lower gearbox ratio so the car can be quicker. Do not use the 3 Racing Speed Gear Set as it binds up too much
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Old 01-24-2010, 12:43 AM
  #11334  
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Thanks for that..exactly which one should I order..the 34 or 36 tooth or something else?
Thanks.
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Old 01-24-2010, 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by malcnz
Thanks for that..exactly which one should I order..the 34 or 36 tooth or something else?
Thanks.
If you get the 34-22 combination you can use a 23t pinion to give a FDR of 4.42
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Old 01-24-2010, 12:52 AM
  #11336  
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o.k cool..will that be a lot faster top end than I am at the mo?
Thanks.
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Old 01-24-2010, 12:55 AM
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Originally Posted by malcnz
o.k cool..will that be a lot faster top end than I am at the mo?
Thanks.
Your current FDR is 5.8 so it will have significantly higher top speed
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Old 01-24-2010, 01:03 AM
  #11338  
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excellent...also if I went to a HW 13.5 motor(the full size one not the smaller finned one) I have would this gearing combo be o.k?..with a pinion change?
Thanks.
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Old 01-24-2010, 01:30 AM
  #11339  
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Originally Posted by malcnz
excellent...also if I went to a HW 13.5 motor(the full size one not the smaller finned one) I have would this gearing combo be o.k?..with a pinion change?
Thanks.
That you will have to work out for yourself
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Old 01-24-2010, 01:59 AM
  #11340  
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Originally Posted by jcr
How many have ran the standard 55mm tires (Xpress Mini tires) in the rear and 60D tires in the front of their M03? I did that today at the race and people thought I was crazy.... but that tire combo worked for me Any real disadvantage doing that?
NO disadvantage. It would make more of a difference in your top speed if you had the small tires in the front. Your fellow racers need more adventure in their sad little lives.
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