Tamiya mini cooper
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Where can i find the Xevo?
Any Website to get online?
Any Website to get online?
Official,
I have sent you a PM. However RC Mart has them in stock for US $80 according to their web site.
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-tl0...5-p-29808.html
Regards,
Calvin.
I have sent you a PM. However RC Mart has them in stock for US $80 according to their web site.
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-tl0...5-p-29808.html
Regards,
Calvin.
Last edited by caltek1; 12-27-2009 at 08:16 PM. Reason: added link
The mini shock kit springs are shorter than the TC TRF springs, I would guess?
Horrid items those kit plastic friction thingies. Shockers!! Not that the M05PRO transparent shocks are any less shocking, hehehehe. What was Tamiya thinking?!
Horrid items those kit plastic friction thingies. Shockers!! Not that the M05PRO transparent shocks are any less shocking, hehehehe. What was Tamiya thinking?!
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
Jim
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
Tech Master
This is kind of off track but I had a question re:Batt. plugs. Does anyone use the stock Tamiya plugs anymore with their lipo or is it better to upgrade to Deans?
bowl806,
Most racers I know use Deans plugs on there Mini's and TC's.
Later,
Calvin.
Most racers I know use Deans plugs on there Mini's and TC's.
Later,
Calvin.
Definitely better to upgrade to Dean's connectors those Tamiya connectors actually have pretty high resistance and get quite hot when you start pulling bigger power from the battery.
Tech Adept
This is excellent, I shall now put my order in for the Xevo and Abarth. Are there any other bits needed that don't come in either kit? I notice you have an "Atomic" battery tray, wassat? A few more questions, do the TA-53597 CVD driveshafts fit the Xevo, will the new M05 ball diff fit (and would it be swappable to my old '03). Finally, I was going to purchase a set of TA-54000 M-Chassis dampers but I'm a little confused now, is there a mini (as in small) TRF shock I could use that would be better? I did have regular TRF TC shocks a while back but had to limit them that much that I sold them on.
Mini35,
The Atomic battery tray is a plastic touring car battery holder designed for the X-Ray car. I had one here at home from another project. The Tamiya MO5 diff will not fit the Xevo as it only uses 1150 bearings, so you will need to get a TAO3 ball diff. The standard gear diff can be made to fit if you sand the gear diff down.
The TRF mini dampers PNo 54000 will fit the front, however the rear need to be of TC length. The front shocks are 55mm inlength and the rear 59mm in length.
You need the hubs, arms etc from a MO3, MO5 kit to complete the Xevo conversion as well as some 5mm adjusters, 5mm ball connectors.
I use the standard TC TRF shocks with a 3mm internal spacer on my MO5L with no problems. I think the little extra length assists the handling of the car.
The Xevo is a great car, shame that you might only be able to run it at clubbies as it handles so well. The car can be assembled with the same gear ratio as the MO3/MO5.
Attached a link to the Mini site that you should read.
http://www.rc-mini.net/joomla/index....evo&Itemid=160
Regards,
Calvin.
The Atomic battery tray is a plastic touring car battery holder designed for the X-Ray car. I had one here at home from another project. The Tamiya MO5 diff will not fit the Xevo as it only uses 1150 bearings, so you will need to get a TAO3 ball diff. The standard gear diff can be made to fit if you sand the gear diff down.
The TRF mini dampers PNo 54000 will fit the front, however the rear need to be of TC length. The front shocks are 55mm inlength and the rear 59mm in length.
You need the hubs, arms etc from a MO3, MO5 kit to complete the Xevo conversion as well as some 5mm adjusters, 5mm ball connectors.
I use the standard TC TRF shocks with a 3mm internal spacer on my MO5L with no problems. I think the little extra length assists the handling of the car.
The Xevo is a great car, shame that you might only be able to run it at clubbies as it handles so well. The car can be assembled with the same gear ratio as the MO3/MO5.
Attached a link to the Mini site that you should read.
http://www.rc-mini.net/joomla/index....evo&Itemid=160
Regards,
Calvin.
Yesterday I finish my M05 By MMG . I donīt buy any kit I directly buy Tamiya plastic parts and 3racing options. The cost of my project only 156 € .
Some pics:
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_IGQ0gFaySN...h/CIMG1160.JPG
ttp://1.bp.blogspot.com/_IGQ0gFaySNw/Szc575L8SQI/AAAAAAAABlA/9epM0t_oAqI/s1600-h/CIMG1161.JPG
more info in my blog (Spanish) http://mmgteam.blogspot.com/
Some pics:
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_IGQ0gFaySN...h/CIMG1160.JPG
ttp://1.bp.blogspot.com/_IGQ0gFaySNw/Szc575L8SQI/AAAAAAAABlA/9epM0t_oAqI/s1600-h/CIMG1161.JPG
more info in my blog (Spanish) http://mmgteam.blogspot.com/
Last edited by mmgteam; 12-28-2009 at 02:02 AM.
Tech Addict
M03 & roll/sway bars, gaaarh
Hi there. I fitted a set of Tamiya Roll bars to my M03.
They seem to make the car worse, less roll in the corners, but more unstable & less
grip on the corners.
Has any one had success with them??
Are these just a complete waste of time.
My Hudy(Xray) setup manual suggests that they actually give less grip "The stiffer the anti-roll bar, the more load is transferred from the inside wheel to the outside wheel. However, as the outside wheel is not able to convert all of the extra wheel load into extra grip, the sum of the grip of both wheels is actually reduced.
This changes the balance of the car to the other axle."
They seem to make the car worse, less roll in the corners, but more unstable & less
grip on the corners.
Has any one had success with them??
Are these just a complete waste of time.
My Hudy(Xray) setup manual suggests that they actually give less grip "The stiffer the anti-roll bar, the more load is transferred from the inside wheel to the outside wheel. However, as the outside wheel is not able to convert all of the extra wheel load into extra grip, the sum of the grip of both wheels is actually reduced.
This changes the balance of the car to the other axle."
1101,
Some people use swaybars and others don't. On my MO3 I used the stiff swaybar front and rear and had no problems with them at all. Yet on my MO3 I ran only a rear thick swaybar and the car was really good to drive.
A thing that is overlooked with the fitment of swaybars is that they need to be untweaked when you fit them to your car. If you make them as described on the header card and then fit to your car, then you need to test them to ensure that they lift each side evenly.
I am not going to describe in detail, however the easiest way to check is place them on the car. Connect the linkages and then lift the chassis in the centre and see that the wheels come off the ground at the same time. It would pay to do this after you have set ride heaight etc without the bars fitted.
I was of the opinion they take away steering and assist in the transfer of weight to the inside wheel.
I know those running the swaybars use them all the time and will not run the car without them.
My only thought with the Tamiya mini set is they are not made from spring steel and are easily deformed when fitted to the car. The mounting system is also easily tweaked when the droop screw is exerted to force. This is seen as a bent linkage on the front where there is a 2mm space and only minimal threads in the ball cups.
Regards,
Calvin.
Some people use swaybars and others don't. On my MO3 I used the stiff swaybar front and rear and had no problems with them at all. Yet on my MO3 I ran only a rear thick swaybar and the car was really good to drive.
A thing that is overlooked with the fitment of swaybars is that they need to be untweaked when you fit them to your car. If you make them as described on the header card and then fit to your car, then you need to test them to ensure that they lift each side evenly.
I am not going to describe in detail, however the easiest way to check is place them on the car. Connect the linkages and then lift the chassis in the centre and see that the wheels come off the ground at the same time. It would pay to do this after you have set ride heaight etc without the bars fitted.
I was of the opinion they take away steering and assist in the transfer of weight to the inside wheel.
I know those running the swaybars use them all the time and will not run the car without them.
My only thought with the Tamiya mini set is they are not made from spring steel and are easily deformed when fitted to the car. The mounting system is also easily tweaked when the droop screw is exerted to force. This is seen as a bent linkage on the front where there is a 2mm space and only minimal threads in the ball cups.
Regards,
Calvin.
Last edited by caltek1; 12-28-2009 at 03:17 AM. Reason: extra text
Tech Adept
Will Tamiya Pn 42102 items do the job or would Pn 53571 be better? I think the 42102's are just Special Edition versions but they do have blue tops and lets face it, bling is worth a second a lap
Both dampers should do the job but with 53571, you get the aluminum spring perch. I believe they are a little thinner than the plastic ones, for more lower center of gravity. Tamiya also offers these hop-up spring perches in anodized blue.