k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

where did you get the body? or did you just get the M03M kit??

I'm kinda torn between the Fiat or the Abarth body

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

For those interested the new Tamiya alloy motor mount fits like a glove and adds an additional 16 gms weight to the MO5 without the additional DF 03 heatsinks. I believe these will add an additional 5gms in total, so all up 21 gms. For those using the 3Racing alloy motor mount it weighs in at 10gms.

I hope to post pictures tomorrow night.

Regards,

Calvin

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

the extra front weight should help a little

have you tried the DF3 heatsinks on it yet? how do the mount to the plate? i'm waiting for my plate to get here, but can't visualize how they will fit on the chassis

cannon

iTrader: (35)

They screw onto the arm coming off the back of the motor plate at 90 degrees. They sit over the chassis behind the steering rack and below the steering rod from the servo.

Super Steve

iTrader: (9)

Hello,
I skipped through the last 10 pages and couldnt really find out about the difference between m05 and m05pro.
I would appriciate any help.

cannon

iTrader: (35)

Look at Tamiyas website to see the differences

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

Super Steve,

The MO5 Pro has some added bling parts which can be replaced on a MO5 kit by changing the rear hubs and adding a high torque servo saver. Do the bling bits make up for the body and extras you get with the standard kit, I suppose that is your choice. A pair of 1.5 degree rear hubs and alloy servo saver can be purchased seperately, so the car looks the same. Other bling bits are blue ball studs.

I think the MO5 is better value for money.

MO5 Ball Diff(New Style)

I received this E-mail response from Champ this morning regarding the new Tamiya MO5 Ball diff PNo 54194.

" Unfortunately Tamiya Japan has not announced 54194 yet,so I'm not sure when it will become available and its pricing ".

Regards,

Calvin.

Tristar Racing

I was under the impression these items are unique to the M05 Pro as well...

CVA Oil Damper Super Mini
Short Springs for TRF Dampers (Soft/Medium/Hard)
1150 Ball Bearings
850 Ball Bearings
Different wheels

Dan

iTrader: (75)

The ball bearings are a must too but thats about it. The rear aluminum hub carrier is not critical. The CVA oil dampers will help a lot, but since they are molded of the clear plastic type, they are fragile. Mostly everyone upgrades to the M-chassis black oil shocks or aluminum threaded dampers.

The original M05 is still a better deal if you don't need all the bling.

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

Tristar Racing,

You are correct, however I do support Dan's statements. The clear super cva shocks do not come out of the box, I would rather not have them as they are brittle. I run TRF shocks on my mini's. The bearings easily replaced with better bearings and the rims well I use Tamiya rims rarely due to being easily cracked. I am not saying that about the Swift rims as they are easily Tamiya's best.

I have included some pictures of two of my mIni's. These are both MO5's. I have also included a shot of the whalan track where we have a lead up event to our Nationals this weekend and some shots of the new Tamiya motor mount with heat sinks fitted.

Regards,

Calvin.

robus

iTrader: (13)

Body is for m05 but is available separately. Part# 51363. I don't think Abarth is available yet. Car is m03s and stayed that way for last 2 years.

Rob

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

Hey Calvin - what's the advantages of using a ball cup over the stock end on the steering?? For the one you have, did you have to modify the ball cup in any way or is it the stock length for the grey tamiya ones?

have you run the car with the heatsink setup? if so, does it make a difference?

unlucky7

hi im looking at starting racing soon would mini be good or am i better off running a tourer? i like the look of the minis and i guess they are cheaper?

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

the best way to answer that is to look at what the local track has for a following.

if they have a good and solid following of mini drivers, then by all means get the mini - especially since you're digging the looks of it

if the track has no mini class, then you're better off getting a TC - the mini's are cool and people have tried to run them with the 'bigger' TCs, but they just can't honestly compete against a 4wd TC

see what the local track has and go from there nothing is worse then buying a chassis because you like it and then find out you have nowhere to race it (since you said you wanna get into racing)

-kaybo

rnd_tang

iTrader: (6)

Hi everyone,

I just finished building my first mini (M05 Pro).

I've just got a few questions so here goes.

The slop in on the back wheels. How do I get rid of that? It's so bad that the bearings are even sliding out of their sockets.

I also got the TA03 ball diff but when I give it full power and lock full left, the wheels will slow down and eventually stop spinning and when I release the steering it will start spinning again.

I've managed to strip one of the screw holes, what's the best way you guys found to fix this? I just pulled it apart again and put some CA in there. Havent put it back together yet but do you guys think this would suffice?

Thanks!