288LikesTamiya mini cooper
09-21-2009, 04:41 PM
hi, hope more people play minis.
just sharing, here is European Touring car champion Jilles Groskamp in a mini race. he used an M05 cooper. i used an M03 swift, standing to his right. hopefully this is the trend wherein touring car racers start to race mini's
http://rccartips.blogspot.com/2009/0...n-bangkok.html
p.s. mini race starts around the 1minute mark of the video. thanks for watching.
just sharing, here is European Touring car champion Jilles Groskamp in a mini race. he used an M05 cooper. i used an M03 swift, standing to his right. hopefully this is the trend wherein touring car racers start to race mini's
http://rccartips.blogspot.com/2009/0...n-bangkok.html
p.s. mini race starts around the 1minute mark of the video. thanks for watching.
Last edited by rccartips; 09-22-2009 at 03:42 PM.
09-21-2009, 05:57 PM
Our club is seeing a rise in mini popularity. I'm one of those ,who have bought an MO-5 and Hobby Wing set ups
As the MO-5 s get set up and running competitively,I'm sure that a few more will join the ranks.
A couple of the fastest guys are also running,so it gives us newer mini racers a yard stick to compare with...
As the MO-5 s get set up and running competitively,I'm sure that a few more will join the ranks.
A couple of the fastest guys are also running,so it gives us newer mini racers a yard stick to compare with...
09-21-2009, 07:02 PM
Tech Initiate
Well I did it, I had a moment of madness at the local RC shop. (Remote Control Hobbies in Naperville for those close to Chicago, seemed like nice people) I ordered a new M05 Pro and intend to make it out to local events. I am looking forward to another RC car build, hopefully Tamiyas excellent kits have not changed in quality over the past 10 years.
I will probably have plenty of stupid questions that pop up, so I will thank everyone in advance for putting up with me. First question, for a class that runs the silver can motors, would you run lipo or just the regular niCad packs? Lipo seems to cost more at first, but I have heard they last much longer if you take care of them. There is a huge weight savings with the lipo, but does this help or hurt the typical mini chassis? (I know some add weight in key places to help handling) Regardless, I am going to need a new charger...
I will probably have plenty of stupid questions that pop up, so I will thank everyone in advance for putting up with me. First question, for a class that runs the silver can motors, would you run lipo or just the regular niCad packs? Lipo seems to cost more at first, but I have heard they last much longer if you take care of them. There is a huge weight savings with the lipo, but does this help or hurt the typical mini chassis? (I know some add weight in key places to help handling) Regardless, I am going to need a new charger...
09-21-2009, 07:44 PM
I'm using 18 month old lipos. They work fine in mini,as they aren't stressed at all,so hold their voltage well.
I get plenty of wheel spin,lol. You only need one pack,two is plenty.
Also, don't worry about 'C' rating ,as above.
My MO5 is just legal weight wise 1330grams with a transponder.
Nimh are ok ,if that's what you have already,but I wouldn't buy new cells...
I get plenty of wheel spin,lol. You only need one pack,two is plenty.
Also, don't worry about 'C' rating ,as above.
My MO5 is just legal weight wise 1330grams with a transponder.
Nimh are ok ,if that's what you have already,but I wouldn't buy new cells...
09-22-2009, 08:02 AM
there is 13 people at my club with minis so i ask them why not race them they all say cus im concertrating on my touring car
09-22-2009, 10:21 AM
Tech Initiate
Ok, so I am trying to pick out shocks for my new purchase (m05 pro) since I have read everywhere the clear plastic ones are brittle. I would go with the 3racing aluminum ones, but those are not legal for TCS if I want to participate in that series.
So I am left with Tamiya aluminum shocks. I have read that the TRF ones are the way to go (53571), but I stumbled on m-chassis specifc aluminum dampers on ebay. (Tamiya part #54000) Which is best? I tried reading through the pages on this thread, but didnt see much about the 54000 dampers.
No rush on this, as the car wont be here for a week or so. Just trying to do my homework now...
So I am left with Tamiya aluminum shocks. I have read that the TRF ones are the way to go (53571), but I stumbled on m-chassis specifc aluminum dampers on ebay. (Tamiya part #54000) Which is best? I tried reading through the pages on this thread, but didnt see much about the 54000 dampers.
No rush on this, as the car wont be here for a week or so. Just trying to do my homework now...
09-22-2009, 11:39 AM
Get the 54000 shocks. I have both sets (regular TRF's) on another car but the M-chassis shocks are designed for the mini cars and fit better.
09-22-2009, 11:53 AM
09-22-2009, 02:17 PM
The 54000 shocks are 2mm shorter than the standard TRF shocks. Using the standard TRF shocks you'll need to use an internal spacer to limit shock travel otherwise you'd get positive camber.
09-22-2009, 02:57 PM
Mini Fiat
Its been a while since I posted here.
I've run m03s with Cooper body since the beginning.
I finally went to mid length, thanks to Fiat body.
It looks much better than Swift in my opinion.
Here it is. I based it on Ferrari's edition 6g5.
Rob
I've run m03s with Cooper body since the beginning.
I finally went to mid length, thanks to Fiat body.
It looks much better than Swift in my opinion.
Here it is. I based it on Ferrari's edition 6g5.
Rob
09-22-2009, 03:23 PM
09-22-2009, 06:11 PM
Looks like a new diff will be ordered as soon as it's available.... 
09-22-2009, 07:03 PM
Interesting list of parts in the diff kit.
09-23-2009, 01:01 AM
bump
bump
I rush imported some HPI MX60 slicks for our weekend event, completely ignoring the "only use MX60 rims" part, so need to order same.
These wheels require HPI Cup Racer tyres, and are perfect with the #100629 MX60 SLICK TIRE S (60x26mm/2pcs). Sold in pairs. Each package contains a pair of serrated wheel nuts that allow fitment on the original HPI Mini and other Mini-size cars with 12mm hex hubs.
All well and good but which offset would be applicable to M Chassis cars running normal wheel base? (Eyeballing seems to indicate 3mm but I would prefer to have it right first time out, unlike the courier cost on the tyres.... ;-)
#3930 MX60 EIGHT SPOKE WHEEL WHITE (0mm OFFSET/2pcs)
#3935 MX60 EIGHT SPOKE WHEEL WHITE (3mm OFFSET/2pcs)
#3940 MX60 EIGHT SPOKE WHEEL WHITE (6mm OFFSET/2pcs)
These wheels require HPI Cup Racer tyres, and are perfect with the #100629 MX60 SLICK TIRE S (60x26mm/2pcs). Sold in pairs. Each package contains a pair of serrated wheel nuts that allow fitment on the original HPI Mini and other Mini-size cars with 12mm hex hubs.
All well and good but which offset would be applicable to M Chassis cars running normal wheel base? (Eyeballing seems to indicate 3mm but I would prefer to have it right first time out, unlike the courier cost on the tyres.... ;-)
#3930 MX60 EIGHT SPOKE WHEEL WHITE (0mm OFFSET/2pcs)
#3935 MX60 EIGHT SPOKE WHEEL WHITE (3mm OFFSET/2pcs)
#3940 MX60 EIGHT SPOKE WHEEL WHITE (6mm OFFSET/2pcs)
09-23-2009, 02:27 AM
iti20090,
Normal rims used on the Tamiya mini are zero degree off set. The Tamiya rims are the same 12mm hex, so I would think the standard zero's would be the answer. You would also get away with the 3mm offsets but the other forget it.
BTW,
I do not own a HPI Cup racer. However someone in the Cup Racer thread maybe able to answer this question.
Regards,
Calvin.
Normal rims used on the Tamiya mini are zero degree off set. The Tamiya rims are the same 12mm hex, so I would think the standard zero's would be the answer. You would also get away with the 3mm offsets but the other forget it.
BTW,
I do not own a HPI Cup racer. However someone in the Cup Racer thread maybe able to answer this question.
Regards,
Calvin.
