Tamiya mini cooper
#9451
My mid wheel base M05 Pro with TA03 ball dif, Futaba 9551 servo, Stainless hindge pins, and TRF shocks was 83 grams light of the 1300 gram minimum. That is in the mid wheel base set up. I was more concernd when I tweeked the car it is WAY heavy on the motor side. I'll be putting a tungsten plate in the servo slot for this weekends racing.
#9452
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,549
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
It's done, it's finished, and after 4 months of planning I don't have to think Mini 50 any more..
M03 class - Andy Cooke, Kirby Masterman, Ash Peeler.
Monster Mini Class - Dave Bain, Tim Keiller, Ty Wood.
Unfortunately the venue didn't really lend itself to filming, so the DVD aspect of things had to be canned. However we will have our usual 'A' final footage up in a day or so, and the full story over the next week.
Big Thanks from me personally to Tony P, Timmy, NT, Brad and Dogs. And also to all the people who travelled a long way to attend, as well as the locals.
And also thanks to Radical r/c (http://www.radicalrchobbies.com.au) for the use of their AMB system, Venom (http://www.venom-group.com) for providing some killer lipo sacks for giveaways, The Boronia Club for use of the roadrail track barrier system, our home club Keilor for a last minute hurried computer swap and Southern Hobbies in Frankston (http://www.southernhobbies.com.au) who kicked in some much need cash to help us from not taking a bath on the whole thing!
And the legend himself Willy Chang from Panda GFX (http://www.pandagfx.com/) for bringing us along a whole heap of rc-mini stickers as well!
And also to Greg Fisher and Cal Holmes, Kirby and Ian Masterman, Mark and Ben Lawson, and Andy Cooke, all of whom were there either helping us set the event up, or tear it down afterwards. Thanks Guys, the help was much appreciated!
And to Damien Kent who graciously offered to return the Roadrail to Boronia so I didn't have to drive all the way back...
Thanks Guys.
I don't want to see a toy car for about 2 months....
M03 class - Andy Cooke, Kirby Masterman, Ash Peeler.
Monster Mini Class - Dave Bain, Tim Keiller, Ty Wood.
Unfortunately the venue didn't really lend itself to filming, so the DVD aspect of things had to be canned. However we will have our usual 'A' final footage up in a day or so, and the full story over the next week.
Big Thanks from me personally to Tony P, Timmy, NT, Brad and Dogs. And also to all the people who travelled a long way to attend, as well as the locals.
And also thanks to Radical r/c (http://www.radicalrchobbies.com.au) for the use of their AMB system, Venom (http://www.venom-group.com) for providing some killer lipo sacks for giveaways, The Boronia Club for use of the roadrail track barrier system, our home club Keilor for a last minute hurried computer swap and Southern Hobbies in Frankston (http://www.southernhobbies.com.au) who kicked in some much need cash to help us from not taking a bath on the whole thing!
And the legend himself Willy Chang from Panda GFX (http://www.pandagfx.com/) for bringing us along a whole heap of rc-mini stickers as well!
And also to Greg Fisher and Cal Holmes, Kirby and Ian Masterman, Mark and Ben Lawson, and Andy Cooke, all of whom were there either helping us set the event up, or tear it down afterwards. Thanks Guys, the help was much appreciated!
And to Damien Kent who graciously offered to return the Roadrail to Boronia so I didn't have to drive all the way back...
Thanks Guys.
I don't want to see a toy car for about 2 months....
Last edited by tony gray; 07-14-2009 at 12:13 AM.
#9453
#9454
There is no difference in the front alloy knuckle on the MO3R and the MO5 PRO hop up part. You fit the tall brass ball stud in the front forward hole in the knuckle on the MO5 and you use a short ball stud on the rear inner hole on the MO3R. This is for the steering not to be at an angle and change the ackerman.
The plastic front knuckle in the MO5 is of different construction to the MO3M kit. The MO5 uses 1150 bearing and is of different design with the arm higher for the bellcrank steering.
Using a small ball stud on the MO5/MO3R alloy knuckle when fitted to the MO5 will mess up the steering angles.
I will post a picture tomorrow. I am too tired from travelling back from the Mini 50.
Regards,
Calvin.
The plastic front knuckle in the MO5 is of different construction to the MO3M kit. The MO5 uses 1150 bearing and is of different design with the arm higher for the bellcrank steering.
Using a small ball stud on the MO5/MO3R alloy knuckle when fitted to the MO5 will mess up the steering angles.
I will post a picture tomorrow. I am too tired from travelling back from the Mini 50.
Regards,
Calvin.
#9455
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
There is no difference in the front alloy knuckle on the MO3R and the MO5 PRO hop up part. You fit the tall brass ball stud in the front forward hole in the knuckle on the MO5 and you use a short ball stud on the rear inner hole on the MO3R. This is for the steering not to be at an angle and change the ackerman.
The plastic front knuckle in the MO5 is of different construction to the MO3M kit. The MO5 uses 1150 bearing and is of different design with the arm higher for the bellcrank steering.
Using a small ball stud on the MO5/MO3R alloy knuckle when fitted to the MO5 will mess up the steering angles.
I will post a picture tomorrow. I am too tired from travelling back from the Mini 50.
Regards,
Calvin.
The plastic front knuckle in the MO5 is of different construction to the MO3M kit. The MO5 uses 1150 bearing and is of different design with the arm higher for the bellcrank steering.
Using a small ball stud on the MO5/MO3R alloy knuckle when fitted to the MO5 will mess up the steering angles.
I will post a picture tomorrow. I am too tired from travelling back from the Mini 50.
Regards,
Calvin.
#9456
A few of us are planning a 03 v 05 test in a couple of weeks. We've struggled to find good weather out here to try it so far!
#9457
edwintklee,
The MO5 Aluminium Front up right/knuckle is Tamiya PNo 54177. This is the same as the MO3R knuckle in Tamiya PNo 49441, but does not include the steering turnbuckles.
Regards,
Calvin.
The MO5 Aluminium Front up right/knuckle is Tamiya PNo 54177. This is the same as the MO3R knuckle in Tamiya PNo 49441, but does not include the steering turnbuckles.
Regards,
Calvin.
#9458
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: wonderfull place called, MALAYSIA.
Posts: 1,592
Trader Rating: 23 (96%+)
hey calvin, this what i did to my mo3R knuckle, comment are wellcome.
what i did was instead of using the long ball stud, i use blue spacer with the hollow ball stud.
also i include the photo of the steering link....
btw...i don understand what is "change the ackerman"
photo here...
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/7897/13072009002.jpg
http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/1413/13072009003.jpg
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/5575/13072009006.jpg
what i did was instead of using the long ball stud, i use blue spacer with the hollow ball stud.
also i include the photo of the steering link....
btw...i don understand what is "change the ackerman"
photo here...
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/7897/13072009002.jpg
http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/1413/13072009003.jpg
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/5575/13072009006.jpg
#9459
edwintklee,
I have used a similar setup on other knuckles using a droop screw, spacer and low friction ball stud on my mini's. That is stronger than using the brass tall ballstud. At present for my testing I have used the brass ballstud, so I can move it to the forward or rearward hole on the knuckle, this will affect the ackerman a, ie steering response.
The position in the front knuckle you have used should make the steering less reactive/slower to driver input.
I have mine set presently in the forward hole, as per the instructions and have found it to be very reactive. This can be toned down through your radio.
If you use a short ball stud in the knuckle the angle from the knuckle to the steering rack will not be straight and will affect your steering.
I have included some photo's of my car. I am not using kit hexes, or the same size front and rear. I have found the car to be very stable with the setup I am using. The shocks are off my MO3, with no adjustment to them.
Regards,
Calvin.
I have used a similar setup on other knuckles using a droop screw, spacer and low friction ball stud on my mini's. That is stronger than using the brass tall ballstud. At present for my testing I have used the brass ballstud, so I can move it to the forward or rearward hole on the knuckle, this will affect the ackerman a, ie steering response.
The position in the front knuckle you have used should make the steering less reactive/slower to driver input.
I have mine set presently in the forward hole, as per the instructions and have found it to be very reactive. This can be toned down through your radio.
If you use a short ball stud in the knuckle the angle from the knuckle to the steering rack will not be straight and will affect your steering.
I have included some photo's of my car. I am not using kit hexes, or the same size front and rear. I have found the car to be very stable with the setup I am using. The shocks are off my MO3, with no adjustment to them.
Regards,
Calvin.
Last edited by caltek1; 07-12-2009 at 08:59 PM.
#9460
Here are a couple more. Yes I know it needs cleaning, just what happens when you run on a dirty track. The tyres fitted work well at Penrith for a cold nights racing.
I should add here that I have only run the car at two different tracks. One was during the day when it was reasonably warm and I tested a few different tyre combinations and once on a cold chilly night.
The same as the MO3 the car can be tuned with tyres. At this time I have not compared lap times to an MO3, but hope to soon. I am thinking that TFG and the boy's will get to it sooner than me. I hope to glue up some more tyres this week and get out to Whalan for more testing, so I know what combinations work and which is the fastest.
Setups used here in Australia, may not necessarily work O/S due to different track conditions and personal driving styles.
Later
Calvin
I should add here that I have only run the car at two different tracks. One was during the day when it was reasonably warm and I tested a few different tyre combinations and once on a cold chilly night.
The same as the MO3 the car can be tuned with tyres. At this time I have not compared lap times to an MO3, but hope to soon. I am thinking that TFG and the boy's will get to it sooner than me. I hope to glue up some more tyres this week and get out to Whalan for more testing, so I know what combinations work and which is the fastest.
Setups used here in Australia, may not necessarily work O/S due to different track conditions and personal driving styles.
Later
Calvin
Last edited by caltek1; 07-12-2009 at 09:11 PM. Reason: xtra text
#9462
Yes it can be. It just isn't supported on the outside of the chassis. The only reason I never fitted it was that I didn't have screws long enough to reach the motor and it does bugger all when heat transfer is through two screws.
I am hoping they make a metal heatsink which will replace the plastic motor support in the MO5. This would work alot better, similar to the old MO1 motor heat sink.
Later,
Calvin.
I am hoping they make a metal heatsink which will replace the plastic motor support in the MO5. This would work alot better, similar to the old MO1 motor heat sink.
Later,
Calvin.
Last edited by caltek1; 07-12-2009 at 11:36 PM.
#9463
Tech Master
Yes it can be. It just isn't supported on the outside of the chassis. The only reason I never fitted it was that I didn't have screws long enough to reach the motor and it does bugger all when heat transfer is through two screws.
I am hoping they make a metal heatsink which will replace the plastic motor support in the MO5. This would work alot better, similar to the old MO1 heat sink.
Later,
Calvin.
I am hoping they make a metal heatsink which will replace the plastic motor support in the MO5. This would work alot better, similar to the old MO1 heat sink.
Later,
Calvin.
#9464
redbones,
Yes, pit shimizu tyres are still available. These are not made from the same rubber as previously. They are still great tyres. I have been using Ride green or orange inserts in them. These inserts are 4.1mm in thickness. I get mine from Feral Batteries here in Australia.
The ones pictured on my car have ride foams fitted which work best in the cold. These foams are from old Ride tyres. (3030, 3023 or 3015). The front tyres on my car are older Ride "S" tyres fitted with 5mm Spice insert. These are discontinued.
Regards,
Calvin.
Yes, pit shimizu tyres are still available. These are not made from the same rubber as previously. They are still great tyres. I have been using Ride green or orange inserts in them. These inserts are 4.1mm in thickness. I get mine from Feral Batteries here in Australia.
The ones pictured on my car have ride foams fitted which work best in the cold. These foams are from old Ride tyres. (3030, 3023 or 3015). The front tyres on my car are older Ride "S" tyres fitted with 5mm Spice insert. These are discontinued.
Regards,
Calvin.
Last edited by caltek1; 07-12-2009 at 11:35 PM. Reason: xtra text
#9465
Tech Master
redbones,
Yes, pit shimizu tyres are still available. These are not made from the same rubber as previously. They are still great tyres. I have been using Ride green or orange inserts in them. These inserts are 4.1mm in thickness. I get mine from Feral Batteries here in Australia.
The ones pictured on my car have ride foams fitted which work best in the cold. These foams are from old Ride tyres. (3030, 3023 or 3015). The front tyres on my car are older Ride "S" tyres fitted with 5mm Spice insert. These are discontinued.
Regards,
Calvin.
Yes, pit shimizu tyres are still available. These are not made from the same rubber as previously. They are still great tyres. I have been using Ride green or orange inserts in them. These inserts are 4.1mm in thickness. I get mine from Feral Batteries here in Australia.
The ones pictured on my car have ride foams fitted which work best in the cold. These foams are from old Ride tyres. (3030, 3023 or 3015). The front tyres on my car are older Ride "S" tyres fitted with 5mm Spice insert. These are discontinued.
Regards,
Calvin.
But now I'm starting to think that maybe the chassis is rolling to a point where the bumpin becomes too much and it tucks in. I noticed that if you use the lower mounting hole for the front upper arm, the bump steer becomes very pronounce. Maybe if I use the stock position and eliminate bump steer through the entire suspension travel, it might get easier. Knowledge from TC can only be used partially for minis and you need to use some weird tactics to get them working sometimes. I guess that's the fun part of mini
Oh, what shock lengths do you run btw? Thanks