Tamiya mini cooper
#7636
#7637
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: wonderfull place called, MALAYSIA.
Posts: 1,592
Trader Rating: 23 (96%+)
i am trying to lower the car weight to have more speed...
#7638
How come I see some M03's with 2 motors? Is this custom or just a different chassis?
#7639
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,549
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Our cars now weigh close enough to 1500gms...and ask Drifting 101 how fast our cars are.... Less weight isn't necessarily more speed...
Its custom...M03 front end, M04 rear end...
Its custom...M03 front end, M04 rear end...
#7640
I build in a 3400 Lipo (Orion). I just attached it firmly with tape and I intend not to use my NiMh-stickpacks anymore.
And so I also did the lipo-mod as bescribed on Mini-net, ading weight within the body. It weighs now around 1400 or even more with body and transponder ... never had any problem keping up the pace with lighter cars, even when running mabushi.
The extra weight helps the traction of the wheels. They spin less.
There are some weighs within the bumpers and on top of the battery which I can remove if nescessary, but until now, I have never felt the need for this
And so I also did the lipo-mod as bescribed on Mini-net, ading weight within the body. It weighs now around 1400 or even more with body and transponder ... never had any problem keping up the pace with lighter cars, even when running mabushi.
The extra weight helps the traction of the wheels. They spin less.
There are some weighs within the bumpers and on top of the battery which I can remove if nescessary, but until now, I have never felt the need for this
#7642
#7643
#7645
#7646
#7647
Is there still diff action?
It should be identical except you should get a bit more pull out of corners.
Make sure you have some foam bits or o-rings in the out drives so they stay in the splines and don't slide out, the ball diff splines are much shorter then the normal diff. Also make sure what ever you use in the outdrives that it doesnt bind the drive train as the suspension moves up and down and spins around.
tp
#7648
#7649
Tech Elite
iTrader: (34)
did you build the diff as per instructions?
Is there still diff action?
It should be identical except you should get a bit more pull out of corners.
Make sure you have some foam bits or o-rings in the out drives so they stay in the splines and don't slide out, the ball diff splines are much shorter then the normal diff. Also make sure what ever you use in the outdrives that it doesnt bind the drive train as the suspension moves up and down and spins around.
tp
Is there still diff action?
It should be identical except you should get a bit more pull out of corners.
Make sure you have some foam bits or o-rings in the out drives so they stay in the splines and don't slide out, the ball diff splines are much shorter then the normal diff. Also make sure what ever you use in the outdrives that it doesnt bind the drive train as the suspension moves up and down and spins around.
tp
#7650
Yep built as per instructions, used orings inside the outdrives to stop the axle moving round....do i need to use o-rings elsewhere....the diff still spun freely, first time i ran it there way no drive. Rebuilt it again and away it went. JUst comes off the corner real wierd until it gets some speed up and away it goes....kinda like having torque steer in a real front wheel drive.
What ride height do you run the car at?
Something that can affect how the car comes out of corners is the steering links getting cought on the chassis when the ride height is to high, make sure the ride height is fairly low and the steering links are level to the ground.
tp