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Old 10-26-2008, 07:27 PM
  #7576  
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Default CA the sides

Originally Posted by Low_E
We got the side-grip out of the front-ryres (to prevent griprol) by applying some CA-glue on teh side of the tyres, which made the sides harder and less grippy.
We just had to do this in the beginning because after some time, the CA-glue-coat weared off, but the front tyres settled themself and the car stayed balanced. All I ever had to do was apply a bit of 5 of 10 grams of lead in the back to prevent massive oversteering which made the car go 180° in corners.
Do you apply CA to both sides of the front tyres?
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Old 10-26-2008, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Low_E
and which insert do you use then in the front-S-grips?
I guess the duoble stuffing makes them harder and thus loosing some grip in the front to avoid griprolls.
Is this correct?
Fronts double stuff: inner layer: Tamiya 53295 (closed cell foam sedan insert) with about 3/16ths of an inch removed from the width (to make them about 24 mm wide), and 1.25 inches removed from their length. Contact cement the ends together. Over this place a blue tamiya 24 mm sedan shaped insert 53434, in which you have cut apart, removed about 1.25" from the length, and contact cement back together. Run on layer of black electricians tape around it (it isn't nice to have it come apart once you've glued up the tire). If you are using suzuki wheels, no mods needed. If you are using wheels that have a reinforcing rib running from side to side (such as the black graphite reinforced ones), cut a "v" into each rib, to form a channel for the shaped insert - if you don't do the cut you will end up with a tire that is too high in the center.
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Old 10-27-2008, 04:57 PM
  #7578  
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Default tires

what i do is with a dremel take the outside wall off of tire were it is square and run a bead of ca just on the outside tread of tire and then wipe of excess and the car dosent roll in the corners we also slam our cars as low to the carpet as possible without scubbing .and they work great also use oneway bearings and just drive into the corners and go also just using m all the way around with stok hard and blue inserts in front and stock hard foams in the rear
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Old 10-28-2008, 04:18 AM
  #7579  
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If anyone is looking for some wicked fast silver cans...I have about 6 or so for sale...drop me a PM
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Old 10-28-2008, 11:32 AM
  #7580  
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does the LRP QC3 have an advantage to use on a mini for a tcs setup?

thanks in advance
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Old 10-28-2008, 03:37 PM
  #7581  
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Originally Posted by Barger
guys...try Powers slicks
www.harrisrc.com
I use 32s and 36s...he also has premounts and posts anywhere in the world
Thanks Barger.

Team Powers 36's Mini pre-mounts now in stock along with tires,(36) rims and inserts

The rims have been changed from a five spoke to 8 spoke Available in white only.

Txs
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Old 10-28-2008, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by R1wurks
does the LRP QC3 have an advantage to use on a mini for a tcs setup?

thanks in advance
Over what??
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Old 10-29-2008, 12:59 AM
  #7583  
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over all others.
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Old 10-29-2008, 06:43 PM
  #7584  
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Hi Guys,

Just putting together a new kit and the transmission is binding with the 2 halves together. I've tried loosening the screws but no luck. When one half is off it spins smoothly.

I remembered reading somewhere (possibly on rc-mini.net) about some plastic that can be sanded down if this occurs, but I can't for the life of me figure out where it is. I've built 2 kits before this one and didn't have this problem.

Any help much appreciated.

Cheers

Ashley
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Old 10-29-2008, 07:57 PM
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Figured it out - the bearings on the diff that supports the outdrive weren't seated properly. in one of the holes there was a plastic dag that a hobby knife trimmed out and it's fine now.

Cheers

Originally Posted by Ashley Cobb
Hi Guys,

Just putting together a new kit and the transmission is binding with the 2 halves together. I've tried loosening the screws but no luck. When one half is off it spins smoothly.

I remembered reading somewhere (possibly on rc-mini.net) about some plastic that can be sanded down if this occurs, but I can't for the life of me figure out where it is. I've built 2 kits before this one and didn't have this problem.

Any help much appreciated.

Cheers

Ashley
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Old 10-30-2008, 03:42 AM
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Originally Posted by R1wurks
over all others.
It will work very well i think



Ashley-I have also had that problem with a chassis or two........other ways to get the bearing in better is gentle persuation (in other words a hammer) jk
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Old 10-30-2008, 03:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Drifting101
It will work very well i think



Ashley-I have also had that problem with a chassis or two........other ways to get the bearing in better is gentle persuation (in other words a hammer) jk
I've used screwdrivers on bearings before, which they don't like (ie they explode and little bits go everywhere)

So what I did was I made a DIY bearing puller (TM)

Get a bolt with a small enough thread to fit through teh bearing, with the head of the bolt on the inside where the diff is, then you put a panel washer and nut on the outside (where the outdrive normally sits) and just gently tighten the nut till it seats properly.

No being rough involved
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Old 10-31-2008, 03:06 AM
  #7588  
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Any feedback on the Tamiya #53222 super slicks? I read somewhere that they were pretty OK. How do they compare with the Team Powers?
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Old 10-31-2008, 03:39 AM
  #7589  
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Is BLEURGHHHH! a word?

Cos thats what they are.....I burned mine in the fireplace. True!
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Old 10-31-2008, 05:06 AM
  #7590  
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Default BFTR II

BFTR II, The Turkey Srikes Back. Sunday Nov. 9th

Today is the last day to pre-reg for this race. The mini class is filling up fast. We will be running hand out motors for all Mini's, F1's and Vintage Classes. Race flyer and rule sheets are attached.
You can pre-reg via paypal at
[email protected]
or snail mail posted marked by today at
Steve B.
4950 North Street
Somis, CA 91320

Please PM me for any questions.
Thanks
Steve
[email protected]
http://roadrunnersrc.com
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
BFTR II RV 10-15-08.pdf (21.8 KB, 171 views)
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