Tamiya mini cooper
#7561
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: wonderfull place called, MALAYSIA.
Posts: 1,592
Trader Rating: 23 (96%+)
maybe too much 4wd driving.....
i ordered hand compound for my new pairs of hands...to tune my 2wd driving.....
hi caltek..
thanks for your feedback, i will work my seting from there...
cheers buddy,,,
Last edited by edwintklee; 10-22-2008 at 06:31 AM.
#7562
I also bought myself an Orion 3400mAh Lipo and build it into my M-03m Swift.
It is meant to stay into the car so I taped it secure.
But I did some research about the weight-change. I allready learned before that a M-03-chassis needs some weight to drive well.
It kind of surprises me to hear some guys driving the Mini, weighing only about 1200 grams and not having any difficulties.
(We only drive the Mini with Standard Mabushi, Sport Tuned or Tamiya 23T-motors overhere).
So, as the Lipo was here to stay, I did the Lipo-modification described on rc-mini.net
(direct link to the article)
It is about building in some lead weights into the chassis.
I have tested the car once since this mod and my car drove exactly or better as it did with the regular 4200mAh NiMH-battery's before.
I might still try the car with some weight removed though, just testing things. It is around 1500 grams now, when body mounted and ready to race.
It is meant to stay into the car so I taped it secure.
But I did some research about the weight-change. I allready learned before that a M-03-chassis needs some weight to drive well.
It kind of surprises me to hear some guys driving the Mini, weighing only about 1200 grams and not having any difficulties.
(We only drive the Mini with Standard Mabushi, Sport Tuned or Tamiya 23T-motors overhere).
So, as the Lipo was here to stay, I did the Lipo-modification described on rc-mini.net
(direct link to the article)
It is about building in some lead weights into the chassis.
I have tested the car once since this mod and my car drove exactly or better as it did with the regular 4200mAh NiMH-battery's before.
I might still try the car with some weight removed though, just testing things. It is around 1500 grams now, when body mounted and ready to race.
#7563
... + quick question.
I will be running in a local competition shortly, but only have the Tamiya tyres that are allowed in our national Tamiya-cup.
In this other competition, tyres are open. which tyres do you guys reckon I should get to run on a carpet track with low to medium grip?
I will be running in a local competition shortly, but only have the Tamiya tyres that are allowed in our national Tamiya-cup.
In this other competition, tyres are open. which tyres do you guys reckon I should get to run on a carpet track with low to medium grip?
#7565
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
I'm pretty new to all this mini stuff, but I mounted up a set of Tamiya M-Grip radials front and rear with the firm insert up front and the soft insert out back.
I've been VERY happy with this setup on our low to medium grip carpet, although I find I have to be very smooth with the inputs and drive good lines. If I'm too abrupt with steering inputs the car tends to traction roll.
I'm going to try double stuffing the fronts next to see if I can firm them up to take just a touch of traction out of the front end.
Hope that helps!
Mike
I've been VERY happy with this setup on our low to medium grip carpet, although I find I have to be very smooth with the inputs and drive good lines. If I'm too abrupt with steering inputs the car tends to traction roll.
I'm going to try double stuffing the fronts next to see if I can firm them up to take just a touch of traction out of the front end.
Hope that helps!
Mike
... + quick question.
I will be running in a local competition shortly, but only have the Tamiya tyres that are allowed in our national Tamiya-cup.
In this other competition, tyres are open. which tyres do you guys reckon I should get to run on a carpet track with low to medium grip?
I will be running in a local competition shortly, but only have the Tamiya tyres that are allowed in our national Tamiya-cup.
In this other competition, tyres are open. which tyres do you guys reckon I should get to run on a carpet track with low to medium grip?
#7566
front M-grips with firm insert, rear M-grip with soft insert:
yep I did that too and it is very nice but I am trying to improve.
I'm using the foam inserts nown which ake the tyres firmer.
Also I've tried running M-grips in front and A-type Rear. Goes ok, but still not as good as some other drivers I ve seen turbo-ing around.
yep I did that too and it is very nice but I am trying to improve.
I'm using the foam inserts nown which ake the tyres firmer.
Also I've tried running M-grips in front and A-type Rear. Goes ok, but still not as good as some other drivers I ve seen turbo-ing around.
#7567
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
I'm pretty new to all this mini stuff, but I mounted up a set of Tamiya M-Grip radials front and rear with the firm insert up front and the soft insert out back.
I've been VERY happy with this setup on our low to medium grip carpet, although I find I have to be very smooth with the inputs and drive good lines. If I'm too abrupt with steering inputs the car tends to traction roll.
I'm going to try double stuffing the fronts next to see if I can firm them up to take just a touch of traction out of the front end.
Hope that helps!
Mike
I've been VERY happy with this setup on our low to medium grip carpet, although I find I have to be very smooth with the inputs and drive good lines. If I'm too abrupt with steering inputs the car tends to traction roll.
I'm going to try double stuffing the fronts next to see if I can firm them up to take just a touch of traction out of the front end.
Hope that helps!
Mike
THis works well 99% of the time - only when we have our annual Novak race, where there are 200+ entries, lots of foam + traction compound laid down by all the sedans, and traction goes sky high, do we have to be a bit easier to avoid traction rolls. Try the s grips in front - I think you'll like it.
#7568
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
I've had very good luck with Type A 60d slicks on the front, and 60d S-grip radials on the rear, all with firm inserts. It seems the slicks allow just a little more slip than the s grips, giving the car fairly neutral handling. I'm using Niftech front and rear about every three runs, just to get the gunk off the tires. We're running on a fairly grippy carpet, but I've found this setup is pretty good on lower traction surfaces as well.
I had a chance to run 55d super slicks on the front one day this past week, and it increased grip quite a bit, but didn't throw the car out of balance.
Jim
I had a chance to run 55d super slicks on the front one day this past week, and it increased grip quite a bit, but didn't throw the car out of balance.
Jim
#7569
#7570
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
guys...try Powers slicks
www.harrisrc.com
I use 32s and 36s...he also has premounts and posts anywhere in the world
www.harrisrc.com
I use 32s and 36s...he also has premounts and posts anywhere in the world
#7571
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: wonderfull place called, MALAYSIA.
Posts: 1,592
Trader Rating: 23 (96%+)
#7572
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: wonderfull place called, MALAYSIA.
Posts: 1,592
Trader Rating: 23 (96%+)
#7573
I guess the duoble stuffing makes them harder and thus loosing some grip in the front to avoid griprolls.
Is this correct?
#7574
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: wonderfull place called, MALAYSIA.
Posts: 1,592
Trader Rating: 23 (96%+)
low e
u guess you are right, but double stuffing front tyre, will make rear more lasting...
can i have the same tyre for front and rear, this way i can rotate F to R , and vise versa, so i can save on tyre?
u guess you are right, but double stuffing front tyre, will make rear more lasting...
can i have the same tyre for front and rear, this way i can rotate F to R , and vise versa, so i can save on tyre?
#7575
well, I guess, saving on tyre is not really something we look for. As we run with the standard Mabushi, Sport Tuned of 23T Tamiya as maximum ... the car hardly wears, and so do the tyres.
One thing we noticed in a competition were we were only allowed the standard tyres of M-grips and NO tyre-products, was that the car became better and better to handle the more the front tyres weard out. Balanced became much better.
We got the side-grip out of the front-ryres (to prevent griprol) by applying some CA-glue on teh side of the tyres, which made the sides harder and less grippy.
We just had to do this in the beginning because after some time, the CA-glue-coat weared off, but the front tyres settled themself and the car stayed balanced. All I ever had to do was apply a bit of 5 of 10 grams of lead in the back to prevent massive oversteering which made the car go 180° in corners.
And so we could do a whole winter-season with one set of tyres.
We actually used more sets, just to try different set-ups ... but in the end stayed with the M-grips FR and R.
One thing we noticed in a competition were we were only allowed the standard tyres of M-grips and NO tyre-products, was that the car became better and better to handle the more the front tyres weard out. Balanced became much better.
We got the side-grip out of the front-ryres (to prevent griprol) by applying some CA-glue on teh side of the tyres, which made the sides harder and less grippy.
We just had to do this in the beginning because after some time, the CA-glue-coat weared off, but the front tyres settled themself and the car stayed balanced. All I ever had to do was apply a bit of 5 of 10 grams of lead in the back to prevent massive oversteering which made the car go 180° in corners.
And so we could do a whole winter-season with one set of tyres.
We actually used more sets, just to try different set-ups ... but in the end stayed with the M-grips FR and R.