Tamiya mini cooper
#6572
I'm after the size of the "Ball Studs" for the TRF Shocks please.
I brought a second hand set and they didn't come with them
Part numbers would be a great help also.
Cheers
I brought a second hand set and they didn't come with them
Part numbers would be a great help also.
Cheers
#6577
Tech Elite
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,549
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#6579
#6580
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
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So Kool, OLD SKOOL!
Yep, a blast from the past with an old story on the hot M01's back from '96
Go here to see them.
Yep, a blast from the past with an old story on the hot M01's back from '96
Go here to see them.
#6581
Will the Orion 3600 Race Spec Li-Po fit in a Mini? I'm guessing that because its 2mm taller than the Orion 3200 it won't fit with modifications.
#6582
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Front Tyre wear
Hey guys,
I noticed a while back some posting about the "ring of death" that occurs on the mini front tyres with the standard links, and if there's any way to stop it. Well, I thought I'd pass on this tip given to me a while ago.
Basically, you make some adjustable upper links for the front of the car
What you need are;
TAM53892 3x10mm turnbuckle shaft
TAM53662 TT01 turnbuckle tie-rod set
Then you need to take the 4 of the 5mm connectors from the TT01 set, and remove from the end 3mm of material. Then thread in the 10mm turnbuckles, and waa-la, you have a very short adjustable upper link. Set the overall length of the link to 24mm, and you'll still have a ~1° negative camber when the car is on the ground, although this can be altered a little if you cut off more of the connector joint. Then just mount the link up using the ball connectors supplied in the TT01 set, and your good to go. (pic 1)
Having the longer front link removes most of the negative camber present on the front, this is pretty much the big contributor to the very biased front tyre wear. I've attached a pic showing how the my new front S-Grips are wearing... with the normal setup, you'd expect most of the inside treads to be worn. However, with the longer front link, the wear is smack down the middle of the tyre
Another good thing is this aids forward traction, simply as the tyre is more upright when in use, meaning more the contact patch can be used for acceleration. A benefit for sure with a FWD. In my eyes though, the bigger benefit is the more even wear, so longer life from the tyres
I've also done this to the rear of my car too, can't stand having loads on the rear... I didn't cut down the connectors thoguh, just have screwed the tunbuckle up tight. As I have an M03-R, I also have the 1.5° toe in uprights, which offer two positions for the link, so I'm going to try running it in the lower position sooner... should make the car less likely to snap on the rear.
Moving on, had a good little run just now with the mini in the parking lot outside my house. 20mins of blasting around on one pack can't be beaten . Only downside is I had an arguement with a kerb, so the Sqaure front bumper is now in 5 pieces (third pic) I'll make up a new bit with a flat carbon plate, so shouldn't be too much of an issue.
Regards
Ed
I noticed a while back some posting about the "ring of death" that occurs on the mini front tyres with the standard links, and if there's any way to stop it. Well, I thought I'd pass on this tip given to me a while ago.
Basically, you make some adjustable upper links for the front of the car
What you need are;
TAM53892 3x10mm turnbuckle shaft
TAM53662 TT01 turnbuckle tie-rod set
Then you need to take the 4 of the 5mm connectors from the TT01 set, and remove from the end 3mm of material. Then thread in the 10mm turnbuckles, and waa-la, you have a very short adjustable upper link. Set the overall length of the link to 24mm, and you'll still have a ~1° negative camber when the car is on the ground, although this can be altered a little if you cut off more of the connector joint. Then just mount the link up using the ball connectors supplied in the TT01 set, and your good to go. (pic 1)
Having the longer front link removes most of the negative camber present on the front, this is pretty much the big contributor to the very biased front tyre wear. I've attached a pic showing how the my new front S-Grips are wearing... with the normal setup, you'd expect most of the inside treads to be worn. However, with the longer front link, the wear is smack down the middle of the tyre
Another good thing is this aids forward traction, simply as the tyre is more upright when in use, meaning more the contact patch can be used for acceleration. A benefit for sure with a FWD. In my eyes though, the bigger benefit is the more even wear, so longer life from the tyres
I've also done this to the rear of my car too, can't stand having loads on the rear... I didn't cut down the connectors thoguh, just have screwed the tunbuckle up tight. As I have an M03-R, I also have the 1.5° toe in uprights, which offer two positions for the link, so I'm going to try running it in the lower position sooner... should make the car less likely to snap on the rear.
Moving on, had a good little run just now with the mini in the parking lot outside my house. 20mins of blasting around on one pack can't be beaten . Only downside is I had an arguement with a kerb, so the Sqaure front bumper is now in 5 pieces (third pic) I'll make up a new bit with a flat carbon plate, so shouldn't be too much of an issue.
Regards
Ed
Last edited by TryHard; 04-15-2008 at 02:09 PM. Reason: removed the comment about TCS legal.... ;)
#6583
Tech Elite
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,549
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In other words, unless it specifically says 'M03' on the header card, or is specified as an M03 hop-up somewhere in Tamiya literature, then you cant use it.
Also...you've modified the original part (cutting the 3mm off the end of the t/buckle) which I would think is strictly verboten!
We've known for a while that this solved the problem, but we also knew that most places wont allow it!
However, its good that you've posted it, you resourceful little bugger you...
Last edited by tony gray; 04-15-2008 at 01:32 PM.
#6584
Tech Elite
However, there's the possibility that I'm wrong and if so, neat mod. I sort of feel that if it were legal, we'd have seen this long before.
#6585
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
To be honest, I've read the rules for the Tamiya Cup (or Eurocup as it was known over here), and they are very restrictive, in only allowing limited hop-ups (Tamiya Cup 2008) if anything they are more restrictive than the TCS rules in the US.
For example, only plastic shocks, no ball diffs, only 1 insert per tyre, no roll bars (not on the hop up list). I am tempted to enter a cup race at some point this year, but if I was, I'd just buy a new kit and go from there...
I'm not fully aware of the ins and outs of the TCS rules, but still thought it might get through, guess not.
Still, thought it was a useful little mod to show off, and for extending the tyre life on my mini, I'm happy. Bear in mind at the moment I don;t actually run in seperate mini class, I'm simply lumped in with the 27t tourers, in addition to running my tourer in 10.5... all in the name of fun.
Regards
Ed
For example, only plastic shocks, no ball diffs, only 1 insert per tyre, no roll bars (not on the hop up list). I am tempted to enter a cup race at some point this year, but if I was, I'd just buy a new kit and go from there...
I'm not fully aware of the ins and outs of the TCS rules, but still thought it might get through, guess not.
Still, thought it was a useful little mod to show off, and for extending the tyre life on my mini, I'm happy. Bear in mind at the moment I don;t actually run in seperate mini class, I'm simply lumped in with the 27t tourers, in addition to running my tourer in 10.5... all in the name of fun.
Regards
Ed