Tamiya mini cooper
#4337
Tech Addict
iTrader: (6)
When turning, the rear will have more grip, but softening too much can cause the tire to skip, losing corner speed. You want just enough to keep it planted, but not skipping.
When accelerating, more weight will transfer to the back of the car, leaving less grip for the front tires to steer and accelerate. You'll want to minimize this as much as possible.
#4338
Tech Champion
iTrader: (261)
HEY TONY!!
I've got the suspension changed 'round on my first RWD M03 conversion. A couple questions:
1) did you really need to cut away the original servo mount/body mount structure? Looks like mine will clear the body (at least the Alpine I'm mocking up).
2) to mount the shocks at the front you discuss shortening the pivot pin and using the same hole for the lower shock mount. It's looking like I need to trim back (or remove outright) the actual lower shock mount from when that arm's on the rear (where some might argue it belongs). Was this your experience?
3) For shocks I had a set of ally shocks. Removed all (3) the o-rings from the inside and installed them with the fourth o-ring on the shaft outside to serve as travel stops. Really looks like I could use one more o-ring to extend my travel stop. Need to add some pre-load clips so the springs (long) support the car. Again, does this seem to mirror your experience/expectation?
This first one will get the nice lightly-used Alpine body. I'm trying to get the mounts to pick up the holes already in the body, so this will take a bit of jiggering around. Looks like the front will be solved with yet another pair of M01/M02 front (straight) mounts. I'll have to dig through my rear mounts...the standard M03 rear mounts (on the rear mount supports I haven't cut from the chassis) don't have quite enough "dogleg" to pick up the holes. Close though.
Thanks,
Scottrik
I've got the suspension changed 'round on my first RWD M03 conversion. A couple questions:
1) did you really need to cut away the original servo mount/body mount structure? Looks like mine will clear the body (at least the Alpine I'm mocking up).
2) to mount the shocks at the front you discuss shortening the pivot pin and using the same hole for the lower shock mount. It's looking like I need to trim back (or remove outright) the actual lower shock mount from when that arm's on the rear (where some might argue it belongs). Was this your experience?
3) For shocks I had a set of ally shocks. Removed all (3) the o-rings from the inside and installed them with the fourth o-ring on the shaft outside to serve as travel stops. Really looks like I could use one more o-ring to extend my travel stop. Need to add some pre-load clips so the springs (long) support the car. Again, does this seem to mirror your experience/expectation?
This first one will get the nice lightly-used Alpine body. I'm trying to get the mounts to pick up the holes already in the body, so this will take a bit of jiggering around. Looks like the front will be solved with yet another pair of M01/M02 front (straight) mounts. I'll have to dig through my rear mounts...the standard M03 rear mounts (on the rear mount supports I haven't cut from the chassis) don't have quite enough "dogleg" to pick up the holes. Close though.
Thanks,
Scottrik
#4339
wheel stuttering
problem:
maiden run of m03r. mostly fine, but i find that on full turns at near full throttle, the front wheels stutter and make audible shaking noises. upon inspection i find no rubbing or binding that i can see. i take the wheels off and run at full throttle with turns and it seems completely smooth with no stuttering whatsoever. i think even having one wheel off (no difference which one) removes the shaking. what could this be??
maiden run of m03r. mostly fine, but i find that on full turns at near full throttle, the front wheels stutter and make audible shaking noises. upon inspection i find no rubbing or binding that i can see. i take the wheels off and run at full throttle with turns and it seems completely smooth with no stuttering whatsoever. i think even having one wheel off (no difference which one) removes the shaking. what could this be??
#4340
Or the viscosity of the grease has changes in the hot Orange County weather.
#4341
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,549
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
HEY TONY!!
1) did you really need to cut away the original servo mount/body mount structure? Looks like mine will clear the body (at least the Alpine I'm mocking up).
2) to mount the shocks at the front you discuss shortening the pivot pin and using the same hole for the lower shock mount. It's looking like I need to trim back (or remove outright) the actual lower shock mount from when that arm's on the rear (where some might argue it belongs). Was this your experience?
3) For shocks I had a set of ally shocks. Removed all (3) the o-rings from the inside and installed them with the fourth o-ring on the shaft outside to serve as travel stops. Really looks like I could use one more o-ring to extend my travel stop. Need to add some pre-load clips so the springs (long) support the car. Again, does this seem to mirror your experience/expectation?
Thanks,
Scottrik
1) did you really need to cut away the original servo mount/body mount structure? Looks like mine will clear the body (at least the Alpine I'm mocking up).
2) to mount the shocks at the front you discuss shortening the pivot pin and using the same hole for the lower shock mount. It's looking like I need to trim back (or remove outright) the actual lower shock mount from when that arm's on the rear (where some might argue it belongs). Was this your experience?
3) For shocks I had a set of ally shocks. Removed all (3) the o-rings from the inside and installed them with the fourth o-ring on the shaft outside to serve as travel stops. Really looks like I could use one more o-ring to extend my travel stop. Need to add some pre-load clips so the springs (long) support the car. Again, does this seem to mirror your experience/expectation?
Thanks,
Scottrik
Questions, questions, questions....
I cut away the servo mount...not for clearance, I only did it so it'd look cool! Otherwise at first glance (or 2nd or 3rd) it'd just look like a normal M03. So that's the only reason why I cut it off.
The front shock? No I didnt need to cut the original lower mount off the arm although it is a REALLY close fit I'll grant you. Take a look at the pic and that's what mines like. Close, but doesn't quite touch the lower spring collar. You could just trim the front edge of the old lower mount back by 3-4 mm that'd sort it maybe?
The rear shocks? No rocket science here. All I did was keep playing until I got the arms to sit level. Which is pretty much what I do on all my cars.
TG
Last edited by tony gray; 08-18-2008 at 01:29 PM.
#4342
Tech Champion
iTrader: (261)
THAT'S the solution on the front shock lower mount. I knew I needed to order in some mount balls...didn't realize (or remember) they extend out that far.
I'll rob a set from another project so I don't have to wait while Tamiya get around to delivering them.
Thanks!
Scottrik
I'll rob a set from another project so I don't have to wait while Tamiya get around to delivering them.
Thanks!
Scottrik
#4343
Tech Champion
iTrader: (261)
Hey Tony,
Those shock mount balls you show...do you have a Tamiya part no. or what chassis kit they'd be from? Can't find 'em digging around on Tamiya USA, etc.
Oh, do they have a threaded stud or do you use threaded rod?
Thanks again. If I can get this one done I've got three to go. Had a Datsun 510 to do and RC Mart got me my NSU and Subaru 360 bodies WAY faster than expected.
Scottrik
Those shock mount balls you show...do you have a Tamiya part no. or what chassis kit they'd be from? Can't find 'em digging around on Tamiya USA, etc.
Oh, do they have a threaded stud or do you use threaded rod?
Thanks again. If I can get this one done I've got three to go. Had a Datsun 510 to do and RC Mart got me my NSU and Subaru 360 bodies WAY faster than expected.
Scottrik
#4344
Hey Tony,
Those shock mount balls you show...do you have a Tamiya part no. or what chassis kit they'd be from? Can't find 'em digging around on Tamiya USA, etc.
Oh, do they have a threaded stud or do you use threaded rod?
Thanks again. If I can get this one done I've got three to go. Had a Datsun 510 to do and RC Mart got me my NSU and Subaru 360 bodies WAY faster than expected.
Scottrik
Those shock mount balls you show...do you have a Tamiya part no. or what chassis kit they'd be from? Can't find 'em digging around on Tamiya USA, etc.
Oh, do they have a threaded stud or do you use threaded rod?
Thanks again. If I can get this one done I've got three to go. Had a Datsun 510 to do and RC Mart got me my NSU and Subaru 360 bodies WAY faster than expected.
Scottrik
They are the steering arm ball joints from the mini No idea what the part number is though.
#4345
As for diff locking, well it doesnt fit within our rules (or TCS) so it's out. We'd much prefer that everyone just runs normal ball or gear diffs. Level playing field (sorta) then. And isn't that the essence of Mini anyway? In most places diff locking isn't legal - simple as that.
I've had the same ball diff in my car for over 12 months. Adjusted it once (tight) and haven't touched it since...
I've had the same ball diff in my car for over 12 months. Adjusted it once (tight) and haven't touched it since...
Tony,
Can I ask why is that locking up the diff's an added advantage over a tighter locked ball diff? and I see that it has added advantage on bigger tracks..
My assupmtions are that ball diff's are smoother round the bends and the gear diffs are a wee bit squarish when it comes to tight bends.
Thanks.
#4346
Tech Champion
iTrader: (261)
I was HOPING there was a way to buy packages of them rather than how they come "for the Mini's" which is in the Metal Parts Bag A. They're referred to as part MA16 there. There are 2 in the bag...need 4 for the front shocks times (ultimately) 5 cars. Ten parts bags are a little much. Sure, I'd like a few extra diff washers too, but 20 of 'em is probably a bit much.
Does anyone know how to get just the ball studs? Or something similar?
Thanks,
Scottrik
#4347
Aye yai yai...
I was HOPING there was a way to buy packages of them rather than how they come "for the Mini's" which is in the Metal Parts Bag A. They're referred to as part MA16 there. There are 2 in the bag...need 4 for the front shocks times (ultimately) 5 cars. Ten parts bags are a little much. Sure, I'd like a few extra diff washers too, but 20 of 'em is probably a bit much.
Does anyone know how to get just the ball studs? Or something similar?
Thanks,
Scottrik
I was HOPING there was a way to buy packages of them rather than how they come "for the Mini's" which is in the Metal Parts Bag A. They're referred to as part MA16 there. There are 2 in the bag...need 4 for the front shocks times (ultimately) 5 cars. Ten parts bags are a little much. Sure, I'd like a few extra diff washers too, but 20 of 'em is probably a bit much.
Does anyone know how to get just the ball studs? Or something similar?
Thanks,
Scottrik
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...uct-id=9805825
#4348
Rally tires for a Mini... I'm turning my M03 into a rallye machine. Using the Tamiya rally block tires, cut to fit a Mini wheel. If you've done this, have you used an insert? Or do you go insertless? I glued one tire to the wheel with a Tamiya 60D hard foam insert in it... it was tough getting everything to fit.
#4349
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,549
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
I was able to order some of these from my LHS. They're part #9805825. Don't recall how much they were, maybe $2 for 4 or 5 of them? Here they are on Tamiya USA.
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...uct-id=9805825
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...uct-id=9805825
I cut the hinge pin off so that there was enough room to screw the ball connector in. I epoxied it as well for a bit of security.
Rally tires for a Mini... I'm turning my M03 into a rallye machine. Using the Tamiya rally block tires, cut to fit a Mini wheel. If you've done this, have you used an insert? Or do you go insertless? I glued one tire to the wheel with a Tamiya 60D hard foam insert in it... it was tough getting everything to fit.
Tony,
Can I ask why is that locking up the diff's an added advantage over a tighter locked ball diff? and I see that it has added advantage on bigger tracks..
My assumptions are that ball diff's are smoother round the bends and the gear diffs are a wee bit squarish when it comes to tight bends.
Thanks.
Can I ask why is that locking up the diff's an added advantage over a tighter locked ball diff? and I see that it has added advantage on bigger tracks..
My assumptions are that ball diff's are smoother round the bends and the gear diffs are a wee bit squarish when it comes to tight bends.
Thanks.
#4350
Actually, Tony, you are incorrect on the locked diff for full-sized FWD racers. Those are really only used in drag racing. Road racing cars that are FWD use limited slip diffs. These are not fully locked and are able to have some differential wheel speed. The reason for this being that a FWD car with a locked diff can be very difficult to turn, especially in low-speed corners, due to the fact that both wheels will turn at the same speed. Cars with that set-up can be a real handful to drive. Basically you are fighting the steering through every corner as the inside tire hops and skids around the turn. Generally, a limited-slip allows you to steer through the corner easily as an open diff, but transfers full power to the wheel with the most grip and a percentage of the power (based on how the LSD is set-up) to the wheel with less grip. This basically means that you get full power to the outside wheel and a percentage of the power to the inside wheel. The result is that you are able to maintain corner speed through corner entry and apex as well as launch hard as you accelerate out of the turn. I've driven a FWD racer with a properly set-up LSD and it is infinitely better than one with an open or a locked differential...
Ok, now back to our regularly scheduled programming...
Ok, now back to our regularly scheduled programming...