Turbonium

iTrader: (27)

i have been running 4200s in mine... you can usually cut the holders a bit if needed. or, maybe cut the plastic ends on the stick packs.

when i built my sticks i just left off the endcaps altogether, and just used the shrinkwrap.

Wes

Scottrik

iTrader: (261)

Thanks Wes, but I REALLY don't want to cut the holders as by my reading of the TCS rules this is not strictly legal. May seem cs, but if them's the rules... And I don't think taking the plastic ends off the pack will gain me all I need. Just estimating, it gets me about half-way there.

Anybody?

Thanks,

Scottrik

Steven Key

iTrader: (7)

Jam-ehz, thanks for the reply. I understand what you are saying. It saved me the trouble of checking this out for myself.

CSeils

iTrader: (54)

Scottrik

Don't use the body clip battery end holders, tape your batteries to the extensions. all you need to do then is to center your pack.

Scottrik

iTrader: (261)

Is taping the battery in TCS-approved? If so, that'd work.

Centering-wise, I've got a fixed end on the left side of the chassis and it looks like the battery will hang just a skosh (MAYBE 1/8") to the right. Then again, this is opposing the motor weight hung off to the left so maybe...?

Scottrik

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

Taping the cells is permitted as per the TCS rules.

Customworksking

iTrader: (74)

Taping is ok my batt hangs out as well I hang it out a bit more on the op side of the motor ... when's your TCS race i will be @ trackside In March

CSeils

iTrader: (54)

I'll use the body for reference. As long as I'm close too or not rubbing against the body, I'm fine.

SeaKayCarthik

Steve, are you using the HPI's for Fastcats club racing? Because they arent tcs legal. And I asked if they are legal for fastcats and I believe the answer I recieved was no.

Cheers,

Carthik

minidriver

iTrader: (2)

A better solution than taping for M03 based minis is to go to home depot/lowes and buy a package of rubberized non slip pad that they sell in the tape department. This is the stuff that you buy to place on the bottom of somthing to make it not slide on a table. Comes in a 3" square piece, precut to 1" widths. It is about 3/16" thick, with one side having double faced tape for application to any surface. Costs all of about $2.50 a package that would do a half dozen cars.

Take two 1.5" long strips of this and apply it to the underside of both of the battery slot extensions. Now your stick pack will slide in but only with great effort, as this reduces the slop in the battery compartment. (When you go to put your battery in, it looks like you are using some pectoral strength builidng gadget!) Holds the battery in just fine without the need for any tape or other holding devices. I have yet to have a battery come loose or even move in racing using this system, regardless of how hard I might get hit. One application will problably last for 3-4 months, then just replace when needed (as eventually the effort of sliding the battery in and out will cause an edge of the material to come unstuck).

Even better, however, is that in contrast to taping your battery in (which pulls the battery up against the battery pods, raising the center of gravity), this forces the battery to it's lowest possible position, lowering the center of gravity and improving the handling. This system also allows you to precisely center side to side the battery in the slot, and I find that self constructed battery packs (not factory premades) are a bit too long to center using the Tamiya battery holding system. With my solution, that is no longer a problem, center it where ever you like, and you don't even need the L-shaped pieces at the end of the battery slot extensions.

For those of you how are at Trackside, you are welcome to come by and see it in action, and I have some of the rubber stuff in my pit box.

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

I'm in Ottawa and run with the R/C Ottawa club. Our rules are based on the Canadian TSC rules but we allow any brand of body and tires. The Tamiya bodies are very expensive compared to HPI and others and we want to keep costs as low as possible to grow the class. Same with the tires. I have a set of RP30 and RP36 that also work very well.

madjack

iTrader: (28)

Clearly, given the short length of my first post I was merely agreeing with Difuser’s opinion regarding his choice of shocks. (because of my lack of interest in debating the efficiency of the plastic vs. alloy shock as it relates to the inherent flex in the M03, M04 chassis)

While I can appreciate your desire to keep the thread positive, I’m unclear about what “doing this kind of thing” means? If I have offended anyone’s fragile sensibilities, I’ll make sure to practice safe posting in the future. Regarding the reference of nasal locations on other threads….if you are referring to me personally, I’ll have to say you’re the first to make that statement to describe my personality.

The latest TRF shocks are excellent products, hence the reason you have seen the majority of other RC manufacturers base their recent shock design on the Tamiya product. My opinion

Customworksking

iTrader: (74)

I also use the foam tape to lower it ...works for me ! will be @ trackside in March

muahdib4

I was simply referring to discounting someones opinion based on the fact that they hadn't won a national competition. Which it seemed like you were doing. If that wasn't the case then I apologize. It's just that I've seen several people do that in other threads.

Difuser

iTrader: (2)

Wow this thread moved on a bit last night.

On the TRF shocks I like them because the shock is more precise. With the teflon piston fitting alot tighter to the shock body. While I agree that CVA's work close to the same and are lighter, the tolerance and resulting weight of oil having to be run stiffer I just flat do not like. I run generally around a 30-40wt oil period. I will vary the piston hole to get the balance and weight shift to where I prefer. With the CVA you have to run around an 80wt to get close to the same but with the blowby and the larger hole it just is not the same.

For the tires I do not have heaps of carpet experience here. David Weir who posted above is the man there. He is a regular at Trackside along with one whose hat is always there in the Nationals game. What I have found in the past is the the worse the tire the better the grip. I found the Mgrip tire on the rear and an S or A to be the hot ticket at Worlds. This was on the M04M. For insert I liked the black foam front and rear. It just sucked I found this in the last Main as the track changes so much over the 4 days that it is very tough to understand the car.

With Trackside allowing compound this might change a touch but it should be pretty similar.

As for my pedigree I am just an over the hill racer/business owner that still likes to offer the info I have learned racing. I like to think it helps others meet their goals. No Ego here and I certainly don;t need brownnosing. Madjack pointed out a fact nothing more, not all the people posting here know that in the last 15 posts or so you have 3 of the last 4 Mini National Champ winners from 2002 to present here offering help for those who want it.

Any of you going to be at 'Birds come over and say hello. Look for the Slapmaster Team in 12scale