Tamiya mini cooper
This is my M-Rage, but I cut the motor wires shorter and soldered it. Also for the servo/ESC wires I coil wrapped it around my screw driver shaft to shorten the overall length. If you are certain you won't be moving the electronics to another car, you can buy pins, connectors, and crimper to shorten the servo/ESC wires for a nice clean finish.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...bsr-m-rage.jpg
It depends on my tire and suspension setup and course, but I do remember dialing out steering using dual rate on my M05.
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IMHO, getting super comfortable with your radio, the car, the setup is critical to getting good practice and becoming faster. Its not always a good idea to work on setup, its better to work on driving. You can drive a terrible car fast if your a good driver, and you can win a lot when you become a good driver with a good car. But if you spend your time finding the best setup, radio etc, and don't invest on your driving, you will never win. And your driving will improve much quicker when other things stay the same, like setup, radio etc. If you keep changing these things, you are constantly adapting your driving to them, instead of improving your driving. This is where Ivan was lucky. he has become an amazing driver, because he is too slack to work on his cars, and too cheap to buy his own good radio. He was easily the last driver in our province to still be using a 75mhz radio....
And to report on my little box stock M03 experiment at our recent big trophy race. I did ok and had tons of fun. Qualified 11th out of 30. Only 8 racers in the A Main though. The TQ was in a league of his own about 0.6-0.7 seconds faster per lap than mine on 11 to 12 second lap times (about a month ago I did bring out my good M03 for club racing and was faster than his TQ car). I was about 0.2 to 0.4 seconds slower (under a lap count) than the top 15 qualifiers and 3 seconds from making the A Main (Axle182 qualified 2nd btw and had a good shot at TQ). Consistency times for me was about 0.1 to 0.2 seconds but no way I'm gonna make that up especially on a track with four 180 degree turns which my friction dampers don't like. Had a super fun battle in the B finals holding off a couple cars for 90% of the race hitting the brakes hard every corner so I could turn and also prevent those cars from diving into the corner to pass me. Close fun competitive racing is what it is all about!
One more big race next weekend for the indoor season so hopefully I can make the A Main this time.
Ivan
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Ivan was winning by poking everyone's eye out with the 75MHz antenna..
Hi Ivan!
Hi Ivan!
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Time to get started...
Doh!!! I still can't find one.
Looks like end of this month more will be available???
duel rate
Every radio maker's duel rate is different, so you must dial-in the duel rate for your particular radio, car and track. Remember that just because the wheels turn more doesn't mean your car will turn more (have more steering).
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This, from the guy that tells me to never use brakes!
Where you set your steering depends heavily on track condition, tires, sauce, temperature...the list goes on. For mini, my steering rate is anywhere from 65% to 90%. For my USGT car, it's a more consistently 75% to 85%.
Burn a few test laps at the start of the day, adjust your setup accordingly. You'll probably find as the day wears on, you'll need less sauce/steering %.
Burn a few test laps at the start of the day, adjust your setup accordingly. You'll probably find as the day wears on, you'll need less sauce/steering %.
Cool thanks I realise there are two parts to how much steering. One is per track with end points and rates set accordingly the more important one though is what is needed to dial in your initial end points to deal with the geometry of the car's steering setup.
Because my servo horn isn't quite centred I end up with a period of servo travel that provides no more steering travel at the wheels. This is more on one side than the other. I'll try and get the servo horn centred and work from there again.
Thanks for all the advice, just trying to get the car into the best place it can be to give me a chance to improve.
I'll post up some shocking wiring pics later, but I'm definitely going to shorten servo, esc to RX, motor (direct solder from ESC to it) and battery to ESC..
Because my servo horn isn't quite centred I end up with a period of servo travel that provides no more steering travel at the wheels. This is more on one side than the other. I'll try and get the servo horn centred and work from there again.
Thanks for all the advice, just trying to get the car into the best place it can be to give me a chance to improve.
I'll post up some shocking wiring pics later, but I'm definitely going to shorten servo, esc to RX, motor (direct solder from ESC to it) and battery to ESC..
Sadly I made a mistake and mine is the EX-11 not quite the same thing
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Set your servo to neutral, then fit the servo horn so that it is at right angles to the steering turnbuckle, then adjust the steering turnbuckle until the steering link is centered, (I find and mark the midpoint of the steering link and then adjust it until it is aligned with the centre line of the chassis halves).
Yes done thanks. Had to set the end points to 73% left and 81% right.
So a few pages back someone showed a photo of their gears, -how they removed much of the plastic.
I am still curious about that. What do you all think about it reducing friction and thus helping the mini go faster????
I am still curious about that. What do you all think about it reducing friction and thus helping the mini go faster????
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