Tamiya mini cooper
Tech Elite
iTrader: (37)
The M04 seems to me to be a better design than the M06, with the exception of the rounded battery slot.
I had considered getting a RWD Mini after one race where I had qualified on pole with my M05, but got blown off at the start by an M06. The RWD really leaps out of the hole.
Unfortunately, any RWD car without foam tires, Mini or otherwise, is not a fun thing for me to drive, either.
I had considered getting a RWD Mini after one race where I had qualified on pole with my M05, but got blown off at the start by an M06. The RWD really leaps out of the hole.
Unfortunately, any RWD car without foam tires, Mini or otherwise, is not a fun thing for me to drive, either.
Tech Regular
Question. The inside edge of the front wheel has worn through to the foam pretty much but the other side is fine. Is that an alignment issue (toe) or is it from the diff spinning the hell out of that wheel on the asphalt? It's the very inside edge...like 2 MAYBE 3mm from the inside of the rim? Tamiya 60d slick type a reinforced tires
The M04 seems to me to be a better design than the M06, with the exception of the rounded battery slot.
I had considered getting a RWD Mini after one race where I had qualified on pole with my M05, but got blown off at the start by an M06. The RWD really leaps out of the hole.
Unfortunately, any RWD car without foam tires, Mini or otherwise, is not a fun thing for me to drive, either.
I had considered getting a RWD Mini after one race where I had qualified on pole with my M05, but got blown off at the start by an M06. The RWD really leaps out of the hole.
Unfortunately, any RWD car without foam tires, Mini or otherwise, is not a fun thing for me to drive, either.
Question. The inside edge of the front wheel has worn through to the foam pretty much but the other side is fine. Is that an alignment issue (toe) or is it from the diff spinning the hell out of that wheel on the asphalt? It's the very inside edge...like 2 MAYBE 3mm from the inside of the rim? Tamiya 60d slick type a reinforced tires
I run moderate toe out, just enough for the car to track straight. Try reducing your toe next time. It wont go away completely though due to camber..
Tech Regular
I see..yes, RWD is great for punching out for sure if the grip is there.
Toe does that. My FWD especially all wear the same way.
I run moderate toe out, just enough for the car to track straight. Try reducing your toe next time. It wont go away completely though due to camber..
Toe does that. My FWD especially all wear the same way.
I run moderate toe out, just enough for the car to track straight. Try reducing your toe next time. It wont go away completely though due to camber..
Tech Elite
Question. The inside edge of the front wheel has worn through to the foam pretty much but the other side is fine. Is that an alignment issue (toe) or is it from the diff spinning the hell out of that wheel on the asphalt? It's the very inside edge...like 2 MAYBE 3mm from the inside of the rim? Tamiya 60d slick type a reinforced tires
You didn't do anything wrong, you can't do much to fix it, you just sort of learn to live with it.
Tech Regular
That's the infamous "death groove". That's been with minis since the very beginning. Just about always happens and is more obvious in "slicks". Not spoken about much now since we're mainly using treaded tires. Anyone who's been around Minis for awhile, especially when the Type A tire was in vogue, is familiar with that.
You didn't do anything wrong, you can't do much to fix it, you just sort of learn to live with it.
You didn't do anything wrong, you can't do much to fix it, you just sort of learn to live with it.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (37)
That's the infamous "death groove". That's been with minis since the very beginning. Just about always happens and is more obvious in "slicks". Not spoken about much now since we're mainly using treaded tires. Anyone who's been around Minis for awhile, especially when the Type A tire was in vogue, is familiar with that.
You didn't do anything wrong, you can't do much to fix it, you just sort of learn to live with it.
You didn't do anything wrong, you can't do much to fix it, you just sort of learn to live with it.
I have no idea why.
Tech Elite
Tech Regular
Well that's the cost of performance. Hey just a question on set up and alignment. How does one check..acuratley the toe angles. I do alignments at work on real cars and I don't think Hunter makes a rack and alignment machine at 1/10 scale lol. And if so I'm not paying regardless lol. How do you guys check toe and all that?
Tech Elite
Well that's the cost of performance. Hey just a question on set up and alignment. How does one check..acuratley the toe angles. I do alignments at work on real cars and I don't think Hunter makes a rack and alignment machine at 1/10 scale lol. And if so I'm not paying regardless lol. How do you guys check toe and all that?
I mean no disrespect for the people who like to measure everything, but most of the time I don't know what a lot of the things are. If the car acts like it needs to be lowered, I lower it. If it needs more toe I'll add it, less, I'll take it out. The only place I have good read on is the rear blocks, cause the blocks themselves come in certain toe ins. And half the time I couldn't tell you what degree blocks are on the car. I'm usually fiddling', cranking', screwin' things in and out, just don't have time. And couldn't care less.
Tech Regular
The play is true
I don't. This may get me in trouble with the purists, but putting your mini on a set up station is one the most if not the most idiotic things you can do. I speak from experience, having done it. There is enough "slop" in a mini, especially in front, that you're never going to readings of any accuracy.
I mean no disrespect for the people who like to measure everything, but most of the time I don't know what a lot of the things are. If the car acts like it needs to be lowered, I lower it. If it needs more toe I'll add it, less, I'll take it out. The only place I have good read on is the rear blocks, cause the blocks themselves come in certain toe ins. And half the time I couldn't tell you what degree blocks are on the car. I'm usually fiddling', cranking', screwin' things in and out, just don't have time. And couldn't care less.
I mean no disrespect for the people who like to measure everything, but most of the time I don't know what a lot of the things are. If the car acts like it needs to be lowered, I lower it. If it needs more toe I'll add it, less, I'll take it out. The only place I have good read on is the rear blocks, cause the blocks themselves come in certain toe ins. And half the time I couldn't tell you what degree blocks are on the car. I'm usually fiddling', cranking', screwin' things in and out, just don't have time. And couldn't care less.
How do you take the 'slack up' from the play, without making the car bind from friction on moving parts i.e upper and lower control arms??? Or is this one of those things that you just live with lol??
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Anybody know who sells the bullet connectors (both male n females) and the wire
For the brushless motor setups???
For the brushless motor setups???
Tech Elite
YA! The play is pretty bad but for what the car is compared to some others, (and I base this on absolutely no experience with any other cars LOL). But to me a car should be tight and nimble but "loose and soft enough" to corner well. I shimmed the rear upper control arms to stop the wheels from moving in and out from the play, and that helped A LOT to keep the car straight-ER at higher speeds. Then the toe out trick, and voila!!...100% better car. Now the question.
How do you take the 'slack up' from the play, without making the car bind from friction on moving parts i.e upper and lower control arms??? Or is this one of those things that you just live with lol??
How do you take the 'slack up' from the play, without making the car bind from friction on moving parts i.e upper and lower control arms??? Or is this one of those things that you just live with lol??
Be prepared for sticker shock. Get's a little pricey. Try TQ racing
Well that's the cost of performance. Hey just a question on set up and alignment. How does one check..acuratley the toe angles. I do alignments at work on real cars and I don't think Hunter makes a rack and alignment machine at 1/10 scale lol. And if so I'm not paying regardless lol. How do you guys check toe and all that?
I don't really use a gauge for toe angles for my RC car. And I also cracked up looking at the TOP Racing settings page where it showed + values for toe-out and - values for toe-in. I just eye ball it pretty much to make sure it's even left to right and just drive to trial and error the setting. Basically my goal is to make the car track perfectly straight on/off throttle. Too much toe-out does dull the steering. Not enough toe-in on the rear causes straightline stability issues. You already know this cause you align real cars.
It's funny these setting pages also disregard thrust angle.