Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Tamiya mini cooper >

Tamiya mini cooper

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree288Likes

Tamiya mini cooper

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-02-2014, 07:55 AM
  #21481  
Tech Elite
 
niznai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: All over the place
Posts: 2,974
Default

For that kind of money I would look at the s/h market. You might be able to land an old Tekin gen 1 which is perfectly good and still can use current software which is free from Tekin.
niznai is offline  
Old 07-02-2014, 09:07 AM
  #21482  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
 
OSherman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: o0O In the FishBowl O0o
Posts: 3,602
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

..and so it begins.
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya mini cooper-image.jpg  
OSherman is offline  
Old 07-02-2014, 09:51 AM
  #21483  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
 
OSherman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: o0O In the FishBowl O0o
Posts: 3,602
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

First impressions... My droop-screws informed me that my previous settings were not as balanced left-to-right as I thought they were. Could be a weight balance issue, but now I have a clear-er understanding of what to address next.


stay tuned... more news at 11..
OSherman is offline  
Old 07-02-2014, 10:06 AM
  #21484  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
KA2AEV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Tottenville, NYC
Posts: 2,345
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by oeoeo327
I believe the TCS rules prohibit setting the timing past the markings on the can. While I'm not sure which motor offers the most total timing, that's probably going to be the motor of choice until Tamiya does the right thing and spec one motor for this class.
You are correct
TCS Rules do prohibit going past the end bell markings on a B/L motor
and at the TCS we have ran they have enforced that rule
Mike
KA2AEV is online now  
Old 07-02-2014, 10:23 AM
  #21485  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (32)
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 910
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Hi,...
I am shopping for a set of tamiya alu damper for my kit.

Came across 3 sets:-
1) Tamiya 54000 50mm M-Chassis Aluminum Damper Set #54000
2) Tamiya TRF 1/10 Special Short Damper 4pcs Hard Black Coating #42273
3) Tamiya TRF Works Damper Set for M-Chassis #84318

what are the difference between them & which one should I get??

Thanks
hobbs is offline  
Old 07-02-2014, 10:39 AM
  #21486  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
 
-jacob-'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 627
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

I do not see anything in the Tamiya website that says you cannot crank the timing past the marking.. lol... the that sux the orca motors markings is like 4mm end to end...

can someone confirm this??? am i blind
-jacob- is offline  
Old 07-02-2014, 10:42 AM
  #21487  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (97)
 
whitrzac's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: WI
Posts: 5,812
Trader Rating: 97 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by -jacob-
I do not see anything in the Tamiya website that says you cannot crank the timing past the marking.. lol... the that sux the orca motors markings is like 4mm end to end...

can someone confirm this??? am i blind


Timing Rules: Physical motor timing is allowed. However, you may not go beyond the manufacturer’s maximum timing mark.

IDK how it could be any more clear
whitrzac is offline  
Old 07-02-2014, 10:45 AM
  #21488  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
 
-jacob-'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 627
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by whitrzac
IDK how it could be any more clear
Yep im blind then... lol
-jacob- is offline  
Old 07-02-2014, 11:53 AM
  #21489  
Tech Master
iTrader: (93)
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,418
Trader Rating: 93 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by OSherman
..and so it begins.
like the black rear toe plate
Markus is offline  
Old 07-02-2014, 11:56 AM
  #21490  
Tech Master
iTrader: (93)
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,418
Trader Rating: 93 (100%+)
Default

Hobbs - any will work but these are the ones you need.

Tamiya 54000 50mm M-Chassis Aluminum Damper Set #54000
Markus is offline  
Old 07-02-2014, 12:12 PM
  #21491  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
 
OSherman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: o0O In the FishBowl O0o
Posts: 3,602
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Markus
like the black rear toe plate


Very racey!!




In other news......

I remember the question coming up if wether or not the new motor plate was required to work with the new chassis. imo, YES. Will the old motor plate 'work'? YES. But you won't get all the advantages that you will of using the new MotorPlate. Such as the new motor offset inboard... Some of that offset is achieved in the chassis plastics, and some is achieved in the MotorPlate.

FYI.
OSherman is offline  
Old 07-02-2014, 02:24 PM
  #21492  
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,367
Default

Originally Posted by Markus
Hobbs - any will work but these are the ones you need.

Tamiya 54000 50mm M-Chassis Aluminum Damper Set #54000
There are a ton of TRF shocks from which to make your choice. The 54000 and the 84318 were specifically released for the Mini. They were designated as Mini shocks cause they had 2mm shorter bodies.

My personal preference is for the TRF TC shocks cause they have longer shock bodies, thus contain a larger volume of oil. I've had several sets of the Mini shocks and I've never really liked them. In fact have purchased longer shock bodies and threw the short ones away. They work just fine now.

This may be true cause I run the M03 and haven't spent a lot of time with the 05. They do set up a little different in my experience.
Granpa is offline  
Old 07-02-2014, 03:36 PM
  #21493  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
eR1c's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,479
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

I have been running these in my M05 and love them,
Tamiya 54000 50mm M-Chassis Aluminum Damper Set #54000

In my opinion the quality is pretty darn good.
eR1c is offline  
Old 07-02-2014, 05:14 PM
  #21494  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
 
OSherman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: o0O In the FishBowl O0o
Posts: 3,602
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Looks like you also MUST use the included aluminum steering rack post assembly. Stock plastic pieces (which I prefer) are too long. Step-down on the cassis in that area apparently has been changed as well from previous. I guess one could trim the plastic pieces down a bit
OSherman is offline  
Old 07-02-2014, 08:04 PM
  #21495  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Australia
Posts: 290
Default

Thanks again thelittlesthobo.

Another question, what servos are people using. I'm having issues with cheaper servos with plastic gears stripping and I just tried a tower pro mg996R and it simply stopped working after about 15mins. I dont want to spend heaps but I'm sick of these cheap servos.
filippimini is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.