Texas.john

The person that told me to only run 55' of timing was running a m05. I am also running a m05 with 20t pinion. What will I gain from my killshot if I advance the timing for 55' to 70'?
More torque or more top end speed which is what I am really after. Will it hurt my motor if I max out the timing?

shmit 1

iTrader: (2)

Advancing the timing will give you more rpm. Just make sure you are using a fan on the motor. I'm running my M05 at max timing (80*) with the killshot (RPM) motor. Using the 20t pinion and a good fan. Temps in the 130-140*.

Texas.john

Thank you, that makes me feel more comfortable about going up on timing.

Granpa

Just offering an observation about motor temps. It seems from what is occurring, that motor temps are like ride heights. It depends on where you take the reading. One persons 100 degrees might be someone else's 120 degrees.

Where you take the reading is important. If one persons reading is internal and the others is external, the two readings will be much different.

I)arkness

iTrader: (7)

may be a little hard to measure the internal temperature on a mini seeing that almost half of the motor is sitting inside of the chassis. so one would assume it would be done at the back of the endbell. unless your motor has a well positioned opening.
also one would need to consider the recommendations of the manufacturer, where are they measuring the max run temperatures for optimum performance. many unknown variables that can only be done by trial and error.

Granpa

Okay, I'll give you that one. What I should have said is that if you measure thru one of the vent holes in the can, your temps will read higher. I'm new to B/L motor technology so only have experience with the Reedy, Novak, Trinity, Trinity Killshot, Schuur, Thunder Power, Speed Passion and the R1. All of these motors can be temped thru the vent holes with the motor installed in the car. It's not difficult to do.

I was not giving a treatise on motor temps. Just pointing out that there seemed to be a variety of ways guys were temping motors. Having tried them myself to see how much variation there was. Can tell you that it can be considerable.

As for the rest of it, I'm where most of us are. Just trying to find a decent motor that won't "smoke" cause I cranked it too far.

sosidge

M05 Ver II Pro on its way...

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

Would like to see some info on the MO5 Ver 11 Pro chassis,as what I read was some chassis changes and arms. Might worth a look,but due for release in May 2014, kit number 58593. However when I searched that came up as a re released car.
Have to wait for some more news.

I)arkness

iTrader: (7)

thats news to me!!

i wonder why the sudden changes??

AngryRog

iTrader: (20)

58593 M-05 Ver.II PRO Chassis Kit

June release.

Translated:

- Set to 4.5mm center closer than the M-05 motor mounting position in combination with dedicated aluminum motor mount that is standard equipment with the main frame of the new shape. Motion characteristic is greatly improved.
- Front and rear suspension arms adopt the integral of the new shape. I realize a quick steering response in reinforced resin.
- Main frame of semi-gloss black plating realized low center of gravity and 8mm down the mounting position to be able to cope with the low profile servo.

Dan

iTrader: (75)

Hope it means it can accept square packs now.

Granpa

Dan, nothing personal here, but I sure hope not. Going to square packs means we'll be entering the world of $100+ battery packs. Yes, I'm aware that there are square, as opposed to rounded packs, for less money. But, knowing the mentality of racers, we'll be having a battery war plus a motor war. You know, which battery has a million mAh and a 500C rating. No thanx, I'm perfectly happy with the "Sport" packs, $25-35, that we are using now. But then, I was perfectly content with the Silver Can motors.

Used to be that you could put a competitive Mini down on the track for about $250-300. Try that these days with the 21.5 motors. Add in flat battery packs and all the other B/L accessories and you've swollen the budget quite a bit.

What's really irritating is what a bunch of "whiners" and keyboard experts did to Silver Can racing. If you repeat a LIE or untruth often and loudly enough, you will eventually get people to believe it. I'll bet that fully 3/4 or more of you believe that there's a lot of Voo Doo, magic, secrets in making a Silver Can perform. None of this is true---I'm mainly referring to last years TCS rpm limited motors. The fast guys with Silver Cans are still the fast guys. The GD motor being used had very little to do with it. Most of the "slow" Silver Cans were just poorly maintained. Also, if anyone has noticed, the spread in times is larger with the 21.5 B/L motors than with the Silver Cans. So much for more equal racing.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Interesting. Hopefully we 'll still see some crossover in parts and similar gear ratios. I'm all for square packs. If someone wants to pop a bunch of money on one, that's their bag. I've spent too much time trying to keep fools and their money together already.

axle182

iTrader: (18)

Amen to that, I personally hate rules that are created to protect the stupid. I ran our last big race with 2+ year old hobby king packs which I use for my nitro starter box in the summer, and won. Batteries dont mean a thing with our current mini rules (Wcics rules with the orca spec)

Dan

iTrader: (75)

Nothing personal Granpa....but I didn't say anything about silver cans and 21.5's.