bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

You can always stick some ofna diff lock lube in your servo saver to make it stiffer. Also, if your m03 is not turning good, you will need to take out the dog bones and get cva's or ecs drives. The ecs drives are not legal yet though....

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Wow! What am I doing wrong? I've always prided myself on having a very smooth drivetrain, but 10 seconds is a long time, unless you're really good at spinning the wheels very fast. I use ceramic bearings (in the trans gears) with a teensy spritz of silicone spray and very clean steel bearings everywhere else.

Kimbrough is a much better servo saver than Tamiyas. You'll likely have to drill your own holes to get the exact length you're after, but they last forever.

Core Creations

iTrader: (108)

Bearings have to be great in silver can racing..I actually prefer plain old metal shielded bearings and always get 10+ sec drive train freewheeling...and the rears go forever. It's all in the prep.

jha07

iTrader: (3)

My rears can barely make 10 seconds. I think it's because the new bearings in there are packed with grease which slows them down.

Granpa

Posted a reply to your ball diff ????? on the previous page. Hope you saw it

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

My bearings have always been good. Rear wheels will spin while I run out for a sandwich. Individual bearings spin very well by themselves after a good cleaning (I actually built a tool for the purpose) but when all is assembled, it certainly doesn't seem like a ten second proposition (there's a joke in there!) unless I spin it up with compressed air.

If anyone's got video of a complete drivetrain, minus motor, spinning for 10 seconds, I'd love to see it. It just doesn't seem like our trannys are built that accurately.

jjjheimer

iTrader: (2)

I'd like to see that jig..

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Ask and ye shall receive. I took a cheap 12v gear/motor thing from Princess Auto and glued a bottle to it. I usually use 99% isopropyl as my cleaner. Remove the shields and chuck 'em in there for a while. After you remove them, get them dry and see if they spin freely. If they're good, a single drop of light oil will cover the lube requirements. I don't do this to the ceramics, though. I just run them as I get them. Avid uses a very good grease that breaks in very well and actually spins even better than a good, clean metal bearing.

+ YouTube Video

...or was this the kind of jig you meant?

+ YouTube Video

Gary NJ

iTrader: (8)

I'm putting together an M03L and built the car using the 50746 CVA Super Mini shocks and the 53333 short tuned springs. I used the short ball end on the shock shaft and I have it screwed all the way on the shaft, but even with no spacers I can't get my ride height below 6-7mm. Am I missing something? This is for hi bite carpet, and I'm told I need to be able to get down closer to 4mm ride height. I hate the idea of trying to shorten the springs, but I cant think of what else to do.

FauxMako

Put spacers on the shaft inside the shock body to limit the full extension of the shock.

80'sracer

iTrader: (36)

Are the racing gears for M03 & M05 a strong material, and or a different ratio too?

sosidge

You should be able to get the ride height well under 6-7 mm unless you are using an unusally large diameter tyre. Do you have a picture?

Putting lots of spacers inside the shock will pre-load the spring a lot, it will make the car very edgy.

sosidge

When you say racing gears, which exact parts do you mean?

Gary NJ

iTrader: (8)

This is with the kit tires and wheels. I did put the longer of the two spacers inside the shock, but I did that to limit droop. I would think adding more spacers would eliminate any droop and eventually preload the spring. Ride height would be lower, but I agree that isn't the way to fix it. I'll try and post some pics later, not by the car right now.

80'sracer

iTrader: (36)

These,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3Racing-M05-...ht_1718wt_1091