Sith Lord

iTrader: (21)

Probably the same ones I have:

http://www.rcmart.com/3racing-m0524l...h=595_744_1389

laNcE_08

Thanks guys!

Yes, they are of 3Racing. They sure do their job pretty well.

Thanks!

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Found another mystery Johnson silver can in the parts box. This one's good for 27,500rpm at 7.2v. Really crap efficiency of only 63% though. Eep! I think it was a vacuum motor as it's got an aluminum cap with a rubber seal over the output shaft.

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

Find attached my recent photos of my MO5L with the JCW body that I used on the weekend to win the last round of the Club Challenge at SMA in Sydney.

I qualified third and finished sixth, first and first, to take the overall win. I did not change anything on the car, just had better luck in the last two finals. The car was very stable and easy to drive.

I took a couple of photos with the body on and the rest without the body fitted. Car has a LRP 4600 Lipo, 13T BL system with 20 tooth pinion. Yes I am running 60mm front tyres and 55mm rears. This is legal here in Australia, unless we have a control tyre event. My car weighs in at 1353 gms with body attached and our weight limit is 1330 gms.

I run a 3Racing oil gear diff with 300 000 weight oil and found this had enough pull out of the corners and still maintain good turn in. I have found this weight oil to put less wear on the outdrives and maintain the blades longer. I always check the blades after every run as these are easily broken and will damage the outdives quickly, which means pulling out of the car and rebuilding. These are just my thoughts. The 13T BL system we use, (380 size can) have serious torque and wear the front universals and outdrives very quickly. This is about the only problem with the system.

Yes, I had not cleaned the car from the last final and it was reasonably dirty. My car is no show pony.

Enjoy.

Regards,

50 Cal.

aussierevo

iTrader: (14)

well done Cal on the win

I've been running your ACT Title's set-up and have enjoyed how the car feels and runs. I've made the change to 300k Diff Oil and will be running some Shimizu 60d's up front, and will be giving this a run hopefully tomorrow night.

dameetz

Which one is grippier/softer? The M-Grip or the S-Grip tyres? Also if you are to combo those tyres which type goes at the front/rear? Thinking of using these tyres for carpet race.

marcos graveyar

S's are softer, but on our carpet M's all round works best.

2hundy

I'm having a problem with my m05.

After a small knock the car won't respond to throttle or brake inputs until the car is physically pushed along. I've experienced the problem with two different motors, a saturn 20t and tamiya GT tuned, although it seemed to happen more frequently with the GT tuned.

The drive train runs very freely.

Could it be the teu-104bk speed control I'm using?

flat4

If you have been using the same ESC with the other motors, then it very well could be ESC

2hundy

I suppose it's a good excuse to go brushless.

Does anyone have experience with the INIX racing combos? I can get a 60A 13t 3000kV combo for quite a bit less than the ezrun equivalent. It doesn't come with the programming card though, but I'm a set and forget guy.

Leopard Rc also do the same combo for less than the ezrun.

flat4

what ever it takes to keep it going,I built my mo6 pro with spare parts I had laying around. A random HiTech servo, a Traxxas xlv ESC, pair up with a Reedy 30k rpm motor mad for a wild ride. When I upgraded every thing in my tc4, I put the Novak gtb esc, and the Tekin red line 21.5 motor in it....granted it is not "stupid fast" but it is fun car to turn some laps in

in short, have fun and don't brake your bank account in doing so.

BILKO1

Can anyone recommend a gear diff for the tamiya mini besides the 3racing one? I have 2 of the 3racing ones now and both aren't even round and bind the gearbox up. It's a shame as a few guys at the local track run them with no problems, I guess I got the ones from a bad batch. I asked at my local club and a few guys reckon the top one will fit with a bit of spacing and their quality control seems a lot better.

mutley001

iTrader: (1)

Try the spec r one:

http://www.pit-bitz.com/product_info...oducts_id=1065

sosidge

Are you by any chance running the 3Racing speed gear set as well? Because the 3Racing counter gear in that set is an appalling moulding and shouldn't be let any where near the car. The diff is one of their better quality parts, apart from the badly-sized o-rings which need serious breaking in.

Would be interesting to hear some feedback on the Spec-R diff.

cannon

iTrader: (35)

The Spec R diffs are very bad. Strip the internal gears far too easy.

As for the 3 racing ones, if you are running the normal other gears then it is how you have built the diff. If you screw the blue end plate on unevenly you will distort the plastic gear. It will be build problem NOT product problem