Originally Posted by BumFacedGoat

WTF?

when did mini turn into formula 1?

Originally Posted by stocker

PS-0435 Shimizu Racing Racing Slick Tire (Rear SP) for Mini Chassis

Does anyone have any experience or know what does the description mean since Shimuzu has the whole whole range D30-D40 of tyres? Also for this range of tyres, is it necessary to still get a insert since it comes with a foam insert?

Any experience to share with this or the sweep pre-mounts on parking lot asphalt (low grip)?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by cannon

They all come with foam so you need another insert.

The Shimizu 24SP is the best kept secret. It is a specially designed REAR ONLY (SP = Special Purpose) tyre. If you are having trouble keeping the rear of your Mini from stepping out then this is the tyre for you.

Use maybe a 5mm Spice insert and you have the best rear combo around for cooler conditions although it can be used in warmer weather as well. It is a 24 compound

Originally Posted by Sydewynder

So you're saying not to use the thick foams that come with any of the Shimizu tires? How about molded Sweeps/Atomic inserts instead of the Spice. These are hard to get for me.

Originally Posted by cannon

They all come with foam so you need another insert.

The Shimizu 24SP is the best kept secret. It is a specially designed REAR ONLY (SP = Special Purpose) tyre. If you are having trouble keeping the rear of your Mini from stepping out then this is the tyre for you.

Use maybe a 5mm Spice insert and you have the best rear combo around for cooler conditions although it can be used in warmer weather as well. It is a 24 compound

Originally Posted by stocker

Thanks for the info! But I guess this maybe too soft to be used on tropical outdoor asphalt, esp since I would probably be using the about the 36 range for the fronts?

Originally Posted by Team T2C

does anybody know the part# for the chrome s spec wheels?

Originally Posted by Mr RCTech

1> I first run my car under power and do a right and a left circle on the racing suface.
Make sure that the car turns both same size circles right and left.
(Tweeking)
If not adjust the lenght of the front and rear shocks so that the car will turn under power evenly.
It important to keep the shock tension the same right to left.

Weight bias front 60% rear 40%

That’s one of the first things I check on my cars. But then I usually fix that on the radio and go from there. Will have to try this.

2> I like to use hard inserts front, med to soft rear.
My favorite to use is the Sweeps.

We’re stuck with Tamiya tires. I think everyone uses the same inserts anyways at our club.

3> Since the cars are light try adjusting shock oil.
I found thinner oil adds traction. Getting the right combination to your driving style is key.

My driving style I would say is I mostly even in touring car just let the car naturally drag into the corners and power out at apex. I rarely use brakes unless it’s a corner I ‘push’ like crazy or when I’m driving defensively and drive close to the next corner, hit the brakes and accelerate out of the apex. If I had to guess, I would say I probably have 30 wt (team associated) oil in the shocks. I’m guessing it would not be a good idea to try softer oil in the front shocks.

4>I found rebuilding my diff using 800 grit sanding the diff rings,
and adding diff-lock silicone oil with different weights a plus.
I'm using 100,000 wtg Ofna on the crush bearing only.
Thicker less slippping for big turns and thinner for tighter turning tracks.

The sanding part is do-able.

I hope this helps...

Originally Posted by rccartips

Hi Ivan,

1. I can't recall weight balance. But I add weight as needed for the track. 10grams more or less on the front bumper gave a big difference in laptime for me. Too much laptime slowed. Too little laptime slowed. I ended up with 40 - 50 grams front bumper if medium grip track and depending on motor/battery rules. High grip sometimes I have faster laptimes with no weights (if motor rules are slow like Tamiya 28T lightly tuned).

Tedious time consuming process. Put 10 grams, note laptimes. Put another 10 grams, note laptimes. And so on.

I believe you but it’s hard to believe such little weight changes makes such a difference in your experience. But will have to test it. Arguably one of the fastest Mini drivers in both our clubs preaches the heavier the car the better especially now with these Brushless Motors we’re using that have a lot of torque. His idea is that it helps with calming wheel spin. His cars regularly weigh in at the mid-1300’s I think and he’s fast!

2. S-grip on carpet I found to give good balance, but usually less grip than M-grips. I usually go faster with M-grips. Hard front insert, soft rear insert. Harder to drive, but faster.

May try the M Grips. Do you CA the outer edges of the front tires?

3. Springs depend on your preference and I guess track layout and surface. Turning left for example, the soft right rear spring will compress, lifting the inner front left tire, causing a diff out (slip).

Current springs Blue front and Red Rear. Will probably try a Yellow spring in the rear.

4. For TA03 diff, I put threadlock on the screw and tighten to the max. Then let the threadlock cure for a week. Also Tamiya antiwear or sticky grease on the balls. I use industrial grease that seems 5 times stickier than antiwear, but you cannot buy these.

I’m guessing I may be stuck with the Anitwear grease. Just wondering where I can get some industrial grease and what rating system do they have in terms of how they rank the Thickness of this grease.

5. But in general I love the geardiff with light coating of Tamiya Antiwear. Then tune the suspension, weights and driving style for no front wheel lifting that cause diff slip.

What I’m hearing is that even though the Front diff may be loose BUT not slipping, I should still be able get my ‘out of corner’ torque? …..cool!

6. Traction compound for grip and balance. Full sauce rear, then maybe 3/4 inner front (then tune from there). Also fast guys might run different traction compound from what the container says. If you can get Mighty Gripper v.2 you will start smiling.

I actually sauce both front and back fully because since I CA the front out edges of the car already and my car never tractions rolls I just cut the thinking out of it and sauce it all!

Hard to see the wheelspin. But fwd have a lot. Compare an M03 to a RWD M04/M06 from a standing start, it will be left in the dust. Nowadays I tune an M06.

That's why I think a majority of both our clubs run one. I'm just trying to keep the dream alive!

Hope these help.

Originally Posted by Sydewynder

@BoneCrusher

When you say you are being dusted by a couple of car, are you losing out right after a turn or halfway down a back straight.

Within 10 feet out of the corners. Top speed I think is pretty close.

Out of the turn would be loose diff or diffing out of the inside wheel. Either way rebuild your TA03 ball diff using anti-wear grease instead of the clear silicone one. No need to put a lot in. Then thread the screw and crank it down.

If your losing top end then you need to look for binding/rubbing gears and/or bad bearings. It shouldn't be your electronics since everyone there is running the ORCA Q in blinky mode.

I will have to check the bearings.

As for set-up what's been said by Mr RCTech and rccartips pretty much covers it.

• I would go from the red rear springs to the yellows first before you jump to the blue.
• Also running soft inserts in a 60D tire might cause rollovers from the sidewall folding under.
  
  Here’s a weird question….technically if I glue the front side walls to prevent folding of the tires, what would that do to handling of the car?
  
  
• Putting weight in the front (i.e. bumper) will help with traction (I have 28g in/on mine.)
• You might have to change your driving line and take a bigger arc to keep corner speed up (but from your race results I think you know what to do)
  
  My driving line is generally pretty wide as I don’t usually use brakes.
  

And yes we are lucky that monkeyracing is willing to help and share his knowledge on this forum given what he's going through. Especially when there are those that would give him grief over something trivial like an avatar pic and forum name.

Originally Posted by rccartips

Hi Ivan, not a guru but hope this helps. Assuming you are losing out due to wheelspin.

1. Add 40grams on front bumper and 30grams opposite motor.
2. While chassis might be balanced, overall grip might not be enough. Better traction compound, better tires f/r.
3. Tamiya Blue springs rear. Hard rear spring to prevent front tire from lifting.

Interested to learn what you find as cause for your problem.

Joel

Originally Posted by rccartips

My feeling on what anti-rollbars do is this. For example turning left.

1. The right front tire compresses due to weight shift.
2. This in turn tends to lift the left front tire (what I want to avoid).

I like my minis to roll a little. Only if roll is too excessive do I think of using an anti-roll bar. But so far I don't get excessive roll in my minis.

I've tried it in M03's but did not like it. But many like it.

Originally Posted by cannon

I have found Sweep inserts to be a bit thin

Only use the Shimizu inserts if you are using the 60D size Shimizu tyres