rccartips

iTrader: (3)

Hi Ivan, not a guru but hope this helps. Assuming you are losing out due to wheelspin.

1. Add 40grams on front bumper and 30grams opposite motor.
2. While chassis might be balanced, overall grip might not be enough. Better traction compound, better tires f/r.
3. Tamiya Blue springs rear. Hard rear spring to prevent front tire from lifting.

Interested to learn what you find as cause for your problem.

Joel

Sydewynder

I'm not a guru but first thing I would look into is, is the diff slipping?
Put your car on a straight, watch the front wheels and listen. When you punch the throttle does the car make a whizzing noise with little wheelspin but moves off slow? If it does then your diff is slipping. You didn't say if you were using a ball diff or gear diff but with either you can check by using 2 drivers to hold the 2 outdrive cups still and try to turn the gear. It should not turn. If it does, it's too loose or you have worn parts i.e. rings. Or something is broken inside. BTW as you probably know, a brushless had much more torque than a silvercan so this could cause the diff to slip when it did not before.
If the diff is good and you suspect the car is " diffing out" (spinning inside front wheel) then you need to tighten up the diff and/or reduce weight transfer to the rear. You can reduce weight transfer by reducing front droop by using inside limiters in the front shocks. Also running the rear a little higher than the front helps. From your post though, diffing out doesn't seem like the problem since your car handled fine before and you're still slow after 10 feet from a corner. I assume the car has straighten out by then. But If you can get a hold of an oil (100k-500k wt) filled gear diff to try, you can see if this your problem. Swipe monkeyracing's when he's asleep at his pit table.
As for rebuilding the diffs I would just follow rc-mini. Some have put an extra washer/shim behind the big gears in the gear diff to tighten it up. It does it by pushing the gears together but can give you a notchy feeling.

One last thing we've seen a pic of the fuzz on monkeyracing's car so if your car has less maintenance.......j/k

Edit: Scratch the oil filled gear diff. You're running an M03.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

As a point of reference for you guys, I've never beaten Ivan and he's usually 3 laps up on me at the end of a race. He is a darn good driver. WAY better than me. I may have to give in and fix his car now.

1101

Hi Guys.
Did any of the M03L kits come with bearings ??
I just bought a new M03L online & I just need to know weather to order bearing as well.

Cheers

Sydewynder

My M03L that came with the 2002 BMW Cooper body did not come with ball bearings. I don't think any normal kits came with ball bearings. (Edit) I just looked through my old manual and it lists plastic and metal (bronze bushing) bearings.
Go to the Tamiya site and look for your kit. If the there is a parts listing click on it and look for items like plastic or metal bushing/bearings. If you see these then you know you need to get the ball bearings in those sizes.

Team T2C

iTrader: (14)

ok mini cooper guru's

I need to get traction on a odd surface.

Painted smooth concrete. Shoot me some ideas.........

no rules apply

help help help

rccartips

iTrader: (3)

Maybe Tamiya M-grip tires.

ado1974

iTrader: (1)

no rules??

foams with goo?

painted concrete will never have a lot of traction

a.

sosidge

Might be worth trying some of the Mini Rally blocks. Or some Schumacher touring-size Minipins in yellow compound (either cut-and-shut or on touring wheels) - these are THE tyre to have on slippy surfaces, there are still clubs that race on polished floors in the UK!

Team T2C

iTrader: (14)

thanks i will start with the rallies

BoneCrusher

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the advice so far.

You’re too kind Jim (monkeyracing). Realize that Jim is still recovering from an ailment that almost took his life over a year ago and he’s driving with vision only from 1 eye and hearing ability from 1 ear. Very impressive coping with depth perception and his enthusiasm in RC Racing!

So, I’m running a TA03 Ball diff. It’s a bit loose in the sense that when you use a wheel wrench to spin the wheels to sauce the tires on one side and then the other side, the opposite wheels don’t turn with a little more pressure from the ‘dabber’. I think that makes sense. We are limited to using only TA03/M05/Gear diff so no oil filled stuff. Also, the car tracks perfectly straight. Doesn’t drift towards one side either.

I may have to start listening a bit better about the wheel spin thing. Problem is there’s a bit of noise coming from the gears so I can’t hear the wheel spin happening and I can’t see it happening either as I hate to say it but I don’t wear my driving classes (real car) when I RC race so I don’t see the car perfectly.

Very good advice but some follow up questions:

1. Adding the weight to the bumper and opposite motor sounds like a great idea. What’s the overall weight of your M03? I think I’m at 1260 grams. The minimum weight is 1200 grams. I haven’t done the balance the tires on the 4 scale thing for like 2 years after someone brought 4 scales to the club one night. What’s the weight bias of your Mini from front to rear?

2. Tires and Traction Compound. Basically we have Tamiya tire choice only. I use S Grips front and rear with a little CA glue to the outside edge of the front tires. The car does push a bit on the first turn after the straight but other than that it has sharp infield handling just not on power torque. I think I use the hard sponge inserts as I have never played with anything else. Just wondering what would harder or softer inserts do to the front or rear tires? I really don’t know and have never thought about the answer. Traction compound basically everyone uses the same stuff. I looked at the 2 cars that recently left me in the dust and I think they both have S grip tires too in the front and rear.

3. I have Blue Springs front and Red rear. If I use Blue Springs in the rear, wouldn’t I lose rear grip on corner entry? I guess I really have to try it first.

4. I’m currently using a TA03 Diff, but I do have a spare Gear Diff lying around that I can try. Any tips on getting either as tight as possible without telling me to stuff that antiwear grease in as I’ve seen guys with internal chassis with goo all over the place after awhile. I prefer as little maintenance as possible after I rebuild this thing.

Thanks again for all the advice so far and anymore is much appreciated!

Ivan

Mr RCTech

iTrader: (2)

1> I first run my car under power and do a right and a left circle on the racing suface.
Make sure that the car turns both same size circles right and left.
(Tweeking)
If not adjust the lenght of the front and rear shocks so that the car will turn under power evenly.
It important to keep the shock tension the same right to left.

Weight bias front 60% rear 40%

2> I like to use hard inserts front, med to soft rear.
My favorite to use is the Sweeps.

3> Since the cars are light try adjusting shock oil.
I found thinner oil adds traction. Getting the right combination to your driving style is key.

4>I found rebuilding my diff using 800 grit sanding the diff rings,
and adding diff-lock silicone oil with different weights a plus.
I'm using 100,000 wtg Ofna on the crush bearing only.
Thicker less slippping for big turns and thinner for tighter turning tracks.

I hope this helps...

Team T2C

iTrader: (14)

does anybody know the part# for the chrome s spec wheels?

rccartips

iTrader: (3)

Hi Ivan,

1. I can't recall weight balance. But I add weight as needed for the track. 10grams more or less on the front bumper gave a big difference in laptime for me. Too much laptime slowed. Too little laptime slowed. I ended up with 40 - 50 grams front bumper if medium grip track and depending on motor/battery rules. High grip sometimes I have faster laptimes with no weights (if motor rules are slow like Tamiya 28T lightly tuned).

Tedious time consuming process. Put 10 grams, note laptimes. Put another 10 grams, note laptimes. And so on.

2. S-grip on carpet I found to give good balance, but usually less grip than M-grips. I usually go faster with M-grips. Hard front insert, soft rear insert. Harder to drive, but faster.

3. Springs depend on your preference and I guess track layout and surface. Turning left for example, the soft right rear spring will compress, lifting the inner front left tire, causing a diff out (slip).

4. For TA03 diff, I put threadlock on the screw and tighten to the max. Then let the threadlock cure for a week. Also Tamiya antiwear or sticky grease on the balls. I use industrial grease that seems 5 times stickier than antiwear, but you cannot buy these.

5. But in general I love the geardiff with light coating of Tamiya Antiwear. Then tune the suspension, weights and driving style for no front wheel lifting that cause diff slip.

6. Traction compound for grip and balance. Full sauce rear, then maybe 3/4 inner front (then tune from there). Also fast guys might run different traction compound from what the container says. If you can get Mighty Gripper v.2 you will start smiling.

Hard to see the wheelspin. But fwd have a lot. Compare an M03 to a RWD M04/M06 from a standing start, it will be left in the dust. Nowadays I tune an M06.

Hope these help.

BumFacedGoat

WTF?

when did mini turn into formula 1?