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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 03-26-2011, 08:41 PM
  #14746  
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Are there aluminum front C Hubs made by Tamiya available for M05 pro (All I could found was 3racing)?
Tamiya do not make them. I would also only stick with the plastic C hubs because you can see when they break. If you replace with alloy then other parts will break, which could end up costing you more in parts. I would also not run the alloy lower arms either for the same reason.

My two bob's worth.

Calvin.
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Old 03-26-2011, 09:28 PM
  #14747  
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my son has gone thru 2 tranny gears (one touching the motor) in the last 3 months in his mo3. anyone know what could be causing this and does anyone have a spare to sell? I don't want to buy another parts bag G for 1 part with anly a few weeks of onroad left before summer.
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Old 03-26-2011, 10:09 PM
  #14748  
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Originally Posted by offtraxx
my son has gone thru 2 tranny gears (one touching the motor) in the last 3 months in his mo3. anyone know what could be causing this and does anyone have a spare to sell? I don't want to buy another parts bag G for 1 part with anly a few weeks of onroad left before summer.
I assume you mean the gear inside the chassis & not the pinion ??

Perhaps using the wrong pitch pinion gear ??
or not using a hardened pinion
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Old 03-26-2011, 10:18 PM
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offtraxx,

If you are using the standard 20 tooth pinion that is provided in the kit, over a period of time it will wear and then damage the spur gear in the car. When the pinion wears the teeth will be curved on one side and resemble the shape of a shark fin. The standard pinion is made from soft aluminium and is normally one of the first parts I replace during assembly.

As 1101 as said, the hardened 20 tooth pinion is the one to get. I would also check to see if you have any wear/play on the spur and intermediate gears or that the chassis halves mounting points have any play. I would aslo check all of the 1150 and 850 bearings.

Just my thoughts,

Calvin.
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Old 03-26-2011, 10:20 PM
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Kids at my club (and some adults) burn through those gears like crazy. It's just from bashing and crashing. The new black version of the gears are much stronger. They'll still break eventually, but they're better.
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Old 03-27-2011, 04:47 AM
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Originally Posted by caltek1
Tamiya do not make them. I would also only stick with the plastic C hubs because you can see when they break. If you replace with alloy then other parts will break, which could end up costing you more in parts. I would also not run the alloy lower arms either for the same reason.

My two bob's worth.

Calvin.
Thank you for your help-will get the plastic ones.
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Old 03-27-2011, 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by caltek1
offtraxx,

If you are using the standard 20 tooth pinion that is provided in the kit, over a period of time it will wear and then damage the spur gear in the car. When the pinion wears the teeth will be curved on one side and resemble the shape of a shark fin. The standard pinion is made from soft aluminium and is normally one of the first parts I replace during assembly.

As 1101 as said, the hardened 20 tooth pinion is the one to get. I would also check to see if you have any wear/play on the spur and intermediate gears or that the chassis halves mounting points have any play. I would aslo check all of the 1150 and 850 bearings.

Just my thoughts,

Calvin.

thanx. yes it's the stock pinion from the kit and it looks ok to me. I have seen the sharkfin alot with trx stuff. I'll look into the hardend pinion. standard pins work or do I need something else?
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Old 03-27-2011, 11:35 AM
  #14753  
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Just thought I'd post an update on those who may have been following my trials and tribulations with my M05M. Yesterday was Tamiya track day.The car no longer seems to "hate" me and is starting to come around. It's now almost decent. Sometimes, when you confer with one "group", your thinking can get a little "inbred". Thanx to rccartips, he got me thinking outside the box and made a couple of suggestions that made a big difference.

Did not spend much time on the 05 cause my M03M took up most of my attention. The car was pretty good but was not giving me as much steering as I like. Swifty had loaned me an Abarth body to try and this change gave me the steering I was looking for. Couple of little changes and this car is going to be a bullet. Too bad the driver won't be able to wring the best out of it. But I'll tell you what, it's gonna feel good taking a gun to a knife fight.
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Old 03-27-2011, 12:06 PM
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Hey Folks, just getting back into M-chassis racing and loving it. Got my old M03 out and she still works pretty darned good. Noticed a body made by Team ABR but can't seem to find out where to get them. Anybody know ?? I did a search and found a company called racecraft rc but nothing comes up on their website for team ABR. Clue me in....been out of the loop for awhile. Thanks
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Old 03-27-2011, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Granpa
Swifty had loaned me an Abarth body to try and this change gave me the steering I was looking for.
This is why my club is switching to spec, 2200kv brushless systems for mini. If silver can mini racing gets fast enough for the body to be a factor, then the motors have gotten out of hand. We're going to get the speeds under control to make it easier for the new guys and tougher for the fast guys.

Originally Posted by offtraxx
I'll look into the hardend pinion. standard pins work or do I need something else?
Robinson Racing makes very nice hardened pinions for Tamiya. They refer to them as "48M" or "48 metric". I believe the "proper" term is .6 module. The Tamiya hardened pinions are really good as well.

Jim
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Old 03-27-2011, 01:23 PM
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This might sound like a stupid question, but where do you check ride height? The front is sloped, so it's difficult to get an accurate reading. Front sides?
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Old 03-27-2011, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Evoracer
Hey Folks, just getting back into M-chassis racing and loving it. Got my old M03 out and she still works pretty darned good. Noticed a body made by Team ABR but can't seem to find out where to get them. Anybody know ?? I did a search and found a company called racecraft rc but nothing comes up on their website for team ABR. Clue me in....been out of the loop for awhile. Thanks
m-chassis.com in Australia is the onyl retail outlet i've seen that carries team abr bodies
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Old 03-27-2011, 01:55 PM
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Evoracer - You may want to checkout the Colt bodies on HKS Hobby. They're 210mm.

http://store.hkshobby.com/index.php?...fa0cb417d89c4e
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Old 03-27-2011, 03:04 PM
  #14759  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
This is why my club is switching to spec, 2200kv brushless systems for mini. If silver can mini racing gets fast enough for the body to be a factor, then the motors have gotten out of hand. We're going to get the speeds under control to make it easier for the new guys and tougher for the fast guys.



Robinson Racing makes very nice hardened pinions for Tamiya. They refer to them as "48M" or "48 metric". I believe the "proper" term is .6 module. The Tamiya hardened pinions are really good as well.

Jim
Odd that you would think that the Hobbywing system is slower than the Silvercan. It is the equivalent to the Blackcan in performance. If memory seves me correctly, the reason the Australians went to that system was not to run something "slower", but to achieve more uniform motor performance. The Sport Tuned motors were known for the variance in performance from motor. The other reason was to have a motor that was more reliable. Being quite "aged", perhaps Tony or Calvin or some of the other down under racers might enlighten us. I'd hate to rely on my information retention capabilities.

We TCS racers have another problem entirely and that is to find motors motors slow enough to meet the stringent rpm limits that have been imposed. Hate to disagree with you, Jim, but bodies do make a difference. And that is even at the slower speeds we are running. You're right about the Robinson pinion. They also have the advantage of not "stripping" the set screw like the Tamiya flourine coated pinions do and are about half the price.
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Old 03-27-2011, 03:28 PM
  #14760  
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Originally Posted by Foxxrocket
This might sound like a stupid question, but where do you check ride height? The front is sloped, so it's difficult to get an accurate reading. Front sides?
Not a stupid question at all. This is why it really is difficult to translate one persons ride height measurement to anothers. The measurements are being taken at varying positions.

I generally take the front ride height on an M03 in front directly under the motor which is the chassis low point. The rear at the midpoint of the chassis at the very back. The M05 can have front ride height measurement taken at the front axle centerline. If an 03 and an 05 have have the same chassis "attitude", the rear ride height measurement of the 03 will be much greater.

I'm not saying that this is the best or the only way to do it, only that for me it's the easiest and most consistent.
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