Tamiya mini cooper
Tech Regular

i just pick up a used m-03 and im a newbe how should i be setting this thing up?
is there any standard things i should be doing? I notice that there is some lead weights in the back is this normal? the car came with sway bar package but not installed yet, should i install this?
i think im going to take it all apart and clean regrease the diff. i think it has a ball dif.( not sure how would i check besides taking it apart?)
thanks for any info/advice
dam this sport costs money to get in to
is there any standard things i should be doing? I notice that there is some lead weights in the back is this normal? the car came with sway bar package but not installed yet, should i install this?
i think im going to take it all apart and clean regrease the diff. i think it has a ball dif.( not sure how would i check besides taking it apart?)
thanks for any info/advice
dam this sport costs money to get in to

I got those pictures from Grahoo. More photos here.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/grahoo/
My understanding is each region (e.g. USA, Asia, Japan) usually has their preference for rules, and imposing strict common rules might be too limiting.
For example Japan uses LiFe while rest of world is on Lipo. In Asia we use 28T Lightly Tuned motors (same as Japan) but USA I believe is still on the popular silvercans.
Here is the 2010 Worlds Winning Car, not so much Swiss Cheese, even had the rollbars:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/grahoo/
My understanding is each region (e.g. USA, Asia, Japan) usually has their preference for rules, and imposing strict common rules might be too limiting.
For example Japan uses LiFe while rest of world is on Lipo. In Asia we use 28T Lightly Tuned motors (same as Japan) but USA I believe is still on the popular silvercans.
Here is the 2010 Worlds Winning Car, not so much Swiss Cheese, even had the rollbars:


What advantage do LiFe batteries offer? One would think that being lower voltage would be a disadvantage.

I bought many of these.
http://cgi.ebay.com/RC-Car-Brushless...item255fbd225c
http://cgi.ebay.com/RC-Car-Ezrun-13T...item5196bbbc4a
They are genuine HobbyWing. And very cheap...
And your 20C batteries should be good. My own testing show me that 35C or 20C makes no difference.
http://cgi.ebay.com/RC-Car-Brushless...item255fbd225c
http://cgi.ebay.com/RC-Car-Ezrun-13T...item5196bbbc4a
They are genuine HobbyWing. And very cheap...
And your 20C batteries should be good. My own testing show me that 35C or 20C makes no difference.
On the Hobbywing thread, your supplier has been found to be selling fake versions of the Hobbywing systems
BEWARE everyone ..... demon 2 has been found to be selling fake versions on EBAY
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)




There must be a good reason why Tamiya went with LiFe batteries rather than Lipos.

Last edited by rccartips; 01-08-2011 at 04:57 AM.

It results in a ball of fire about 2ft x 2ft.
Each have been left in the car while charging or shorted while racing.
They don't explode like the NiMH tho.


My post was a possible answer to the question why Tamiya decided to use LiFe, not to rip on LiPos. If you don't believe that it can happen.................


Maybe it's like the Blu-Ray vs. HD DVD battle. Except Tamiya (Sony stand in) will probably lose this one.
It's really surprising to me that people have blown up their lipos. I mean, it's really simple to not blow them up. I guess there's no accounting for stupid.
It's really surprising to me that people have blown up their lipos. I mean, it's really simple to not blow them up. I guess there's no accounting for stupid.

Easy to blow Lipos, not neccessarily out of stupidity.
- Poor/dirty charger to battery connection causes an overcharge
- Uncalibrated chargers that overcharge
- Wrong charger setting especially in heat of racing
- Car accident, puncturing the Lipo
So is the new M06 faster than the M05 or M04 in high grip flowing tracks?
- Poor/dirty charger to battery connection causes an overcharge
- Uncalibrated chargers that overcharge
- Wrong charger setting especially in heat of racing
- Car accident, puncturing the Lipo
So is the new M06 faster than the M05 or M04 in high grip flowing tracks?

Is the stock gear diff supposed to be as tight as it seems to be? I just finished assembling it and am thinking a ball diff would have been a better choice. For those using the ball diff, I understand the one designed for the M-05 may not be the best choice. Any comments would be appreciated; I don't want to tear this thing down again after it's all finished.
Thanks,
SoCal
Thanks,
SoCal

EDit: Confirmed. Tamiya lists the M-05 ball diff for the M-06 as well. You could also use the old TA-03 ball if you want to.