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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 11-17-2010, 10:24 PM
  #13591  
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That sadle pack setup is pretty cool. Have you accually run it like that? If you did, did the packs run under hard cornering?

Jay
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Old 11-17-2010, 10:32 PM
  #13592  
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Originally Posted by pyro18t
That sadle pack setup is pretty cool. Have you accually run it like that? If you did, did the packs run under hard cornering?

Jay
Sure have. If you mean did they rub on the ground, nope. They've actually got more ground clearance than the stick pack and pretty much spot on the right width as well. The overall width is around the same as the outer edges of the brackets that hold the stick pack in. The outer lower edge is around 4 - 5mm higher than a stickpack.
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Old 11-17-2010, 10:36 PM
  #13593  
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Wow seems like a great idea! My Mini should be showing up tomorrow, as long as I can catch the FedEx man that is!

Jay
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Old 11-17-2010, 11:54 PM
  #13594  
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Originally Posted by goBezerk
Think it's fairly safe myself, the plastic around it is pretty substantial and it's tucked behind the battery and the front wheel...anyhow, time will tell. It was either 10 mins of work with an offcut that was lying around or quite a bit more time to attach it to the motor screws...I opted for easy

And for the Mini Enduro nuts out there, here's my M05 with 6000Mah saddle packs Imagine how many laps you could cut with that! Don't know it would be approved for any events though...
Hey! Whatever works for you!

And yes, we all love to see some ingenuity! Love the saddle packs.
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Old 11-18-2010, 03:40 AM
  #13595  
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Default Yeah Racing 1.5 degree rear uprights

Hey has anyone out there purchased these only to find that they're out of alignment? I checked my brand new ones last night, as they just didn't seem right, and true enough the left was toe-in, and the right almost 0 degrees.

I checked with brand new sets of lower arms as well, just so I could discount the possibility of the arms being out of whack.

Anyone?
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Old 11-18-2010, 05:51 AM
  #13596  
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Hmm interesting idea with the saddle packs. In australia i believe battery fixings are open. But if i were running a race meet personally i would rule that that is not in the spirit of mini racing.
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Old 11-18-2010, 11:19 AM
  #13597  
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Originally Posted by mangoman
Hmm interesting idea with the saddle packs. In australia i believe battery fixings are open. But if i were running a race meet personally i would rule that that is not in the spirit of mini racing.
For racing I would have thought that it would handle worse as the weight is put further out. THere is no weight through the centre of the chassis
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Old 11-18-2010, 01:29 PM
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Default not too far

I dont think it would go far at all. Definetly not more than 2 minutes with that pack as the wheels would fall off first.
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Old 11-18-2010, 01:35 PM
  #13599  
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Originally Posted by mangoman
Hmm interesting idea with the saddle packs. In australia i believe battery fixings are open. But if i were running a race meet personally i would rule that that is not in the spirit of mini racing.
I was kind of the same, it was really just an experiment...but thought I'd post it for some feedback/ideas for other guys to play with. Good thing is no mods have to be done to the chassis, eg no cutting grinding etc

Originally Posted by cannon
For racing I would have thought that it would handle worse as the weight is put further out. THere is no weight through the centre of the chassis
Yes and no. As the original was designed for a NiCad/NiMh, I thought I'd try and replicate in a way the weight of these stick packs and also have the opportunity to add even more between the cells if deemed necassary...re the weight distribution, from my experience it would mainly depend on the track conditions, grippy tracks needs the weight further inboard and slippery tracks further outboard. They can also be run with their bases against the chassis, just requires the battery leads to be more creatively added

Certainly at Boronia it sat on the track fine, haven't tried it at TFTR yet but probably won't bother as it's obviously not going to be "legal" anyhow. No sign of traction rolling, no matter how hard you pushed it...other bonus is you didn't need any extra weight to make minimum race weight
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Old 11-18-2010, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by AUSSIE BOB
I dont think it would go far at all. Definetly not more than 2 minutes with that pack as the wheels would fall off first.
Bob
Not sure what you're trying to say, at 30 grams over minimum race weight, it's certainly lighter than most local racers run at, typically around 1,400g...
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Old 11-18-2010, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by woodys3b
Setup sheet says he used a 21 tooth pinion. I don't have my car in front of me but I though 20 was the biggest you could use.
I run 21T pinion in mine, no problem there is a little give in the screws.
Just make sure you get a little gap...
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Old 11-18-2010, 05:01 PM
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I have actually regularly placed weights out wide. My theory is that it can stop traction rolling to a limited degree up to the point at which it wants to tip over (dont know if it does, but it seemed to help but that would have also just been the weight itself). Obviously it should also theoretically effect the car as it has to transition left to right though.

Personally i think the car should still handle fine, as long as the batteries are not scraping on the ground as the car leans through corners.
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Old 11-18-2010, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by mangoman
I have actually regularly placed weights out wide. My theory is that it can stop traction rolling to a limited degree up to the point at which it wants to tip over (dont know if it does, but it seemed to help but that would have also just been the weight itself). Obviously it should also theoretically effect the car as it has to transition left to right though.

Personally i think the car should still handle fine, as long as the batteries are not scraping on the ground as the car leans through corners.
I agree. From my off-road experience, outboard weight helps on bumpy slippery tracks as it helps the car roll a little easier and also stops the car pitching left/right. With centralized weight there's very little sprung weight out wide to keep the car flat through rough section of track. But on high grip tracks you want the weight to transition slower so that the car is more stable...

At the end of the day, the height of the center of gravity is more important than the actual location of it off the centerline...I decided it was great from a capacity point of view but didn't improve in other areas that I was hoping for, so I just went back to my brass bumper and happy days
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Old 11-18-2010, 06:10 PM
  #13604  
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Default no nuts

Goberzerk, the wheel nuts are not there, that is why it would not go far.
Bob
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Old 11-18-2010, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by AUSSIE BOB
Goberzerk, the wheel nuts are not there, that is why it would not go far.
Bob
good eyes there!
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