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That is awesone!
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Originally Posted by sakadachi
(Post 15763892)
Finally finished my other Monte Carlo body today since I started it in 2015? LOL..
This is on my hopped up M01. I've not built the Xpress yet.. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...6e38138826.png Nice one! Mine has some mileage on it but it’s in decent shape. Presently sits on my Top Sabre S4 Mini |
Thanks, I was away from RC for a couple of years and recently noticed these Cooper bodies cost a fortune! I'm glad I still have like 5 fresh ones I bought long time ago. Going to keep them locked up in my time capsule for later use. LOL
Raman - I love my TOP Sabre Mini's too! |
I really wish Tamiya would do a re release of coopers!
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Originally Posted by DaSilva3525
(Post 15764887)
I really wish Tamiya would do a re release of coopers!
Which is a shame because there is a big market for Minis and all things BMW. |
I have a M01 NIB I bought from a guy a few months ago for only $300. I wasn't sure if he was aware that they usually go for double that price, but I just took it off his hands and placed in my NIB collection.
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m04 servo mount (applicable to m03 too)
Been racing my m04 and something never quite sat quite right with me about how the servo is mounted.
I followed instructions and used one of the self tapping screws and a washer on the servo to mount it to the little servo mounting block. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...da08eb2445.jpg But the screw is way smaller diameter than the hole in the servo ear. Basically if I don't crank it down really hard it is at risk of moving and becoming misaligned. This has happened already once where one screw backed out a tiny bit and left the servo free to move a lot in each direction. I would use the rubber grommets that come with the servo to take up the space but the instructions do not show this and also when I did try the rubber grommets the self tapping screw is not long enough. I tried with a longer self tapping screw with the grommets, the thickness of the rubber made the servo sit too low in the chassis so the arm was contacting the chassis. Do other servos use a smaller mounting hole? I've not seen this dimension listed on the servos specifications. Is there something else I'm missing? https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...65cf016ecc.jpg The servo is a spectrum z590. Thanks |
Originally Posted by OFFroadrunner
(Post 15840366)
Been racing my m04 and something never quite sat quite right with me about how the servo is mounted.
I followed instructions and used one of the self tapping screws and a washer on the servo to mount it to the little servo mounting block. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...da08eb2445.jpg But the screw is way smaller diameter than the hole in the servo ear. Basically if I don't crank it down really hard it is at risk of moving and becoming misaligned. This has happened already once where one screw backed out a tiny bit and left the servo free to move a lot in each direction. I would use the rubber grommets that come with the servo to take up the space but the instructions do not show this and also when I did try the rubber grommets the self tapping screw is not long enough. I tried with a longer self tapping screw with the grommets, the thickness of the rubber made the servo sit too low in the chassis so the arm was contacting the chassis. Do other servos use a smaller mounting hole? I've not seen this dimension listed on the servos specifications. Is there something else I'm missing? https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...65cf016ecc.jpg The servo is a spectrum z590. Thanks 1up Racing ServoLock screws. https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/10...g?v=1550031143 |
You can also get generic "servo washers" that do the same job and are a lot cheaper.
These are a fairly recent invention but make mounting a servo so much more reliable. |
Originally Posted by sosidge
(Post 15840385)
You can also get generic "servo washers" that do the same job and are a lot cheaper.
These are a fairly recent invention but make mounting a servo so much more reliable. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...8144ef9d82.png and then just find a flat head self tapping m3 screw to go with them. |
I use M3 screws with generic hardware store washers under the heads. Works. Those mounting holes do look a little large.
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Have not been able to find the old S-Grips (TAM53254) for some time now. Have they been officially replaced by "TAM54995 (60D Super Radial Tires M-Chassis/Soft) and how do they compare?
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Originally Posted by OFFroadrunner
(Post 15881873)
Have not been able to find the old S-Grips (TAM53254) for some time now. Have they been officially replaced by "TAM54995 (60D Super Radial Tires M-Chassis/Soft) and how do they compare?
This is what I got from Tamiya a while backIt’s a step softer. They have a narrower temperature range and will wear out faster in warmer track conditions, but will have a lot of grip on medium to low track temp conditions. The standard S grips have a wider temp range. Longer wear cycle too. |
On asphalt, would it be better to run S-grips all around, or consider the H-grips in the front for a FWD car?
My thinking with the harder front is to mostly to take out some twitch, and have them last longer since the tires are doing double duty. Not sure if the TCS H-grips have enough traction though. |
Hi All,
Are the Tamiya Mini Copper and VW Golf Mk 1 body shells still available? I can only find the part number for the full kit, not the body shell alone, Tamiya 58438 Mini Cooper M-05 Chassis Kit - Body shell only Also is the Tamiya Volkswagon Golf Mark 1 body shell still available? Tamiya 47308 Volkswagen Golf Mk.1 M-05 Chassis Kit - Body shell only For both the Mini Copper and the Golf I can only find aftermarket body shells. Thank you ! Very much appreciated. |
Mini Cooper, definitely not available. Tamiya weren't able to renew their license.
VW Golf Mk 1, I'm not 100% sure but I think they're discontinued too. |
Team Blue Groove repops them. They're not full tamiya sets, but you can find them on ebay.
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Thank you in advance.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...4c5ee7a62.jpeg Can someone do me a favor and measure the distance (center to center) of the two mounting holes. |
I just bought a used M05 Pro V2 with the clear plastic dampers. Can you all tell me what spring set I should buy for tuning options? Also what tire combo would be good for black carpet?
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Look for the older style short springs. #42168 is what I used. Tyres will depend on the track, best to ask locally.
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Shock tower looks reversible for low cg shocks...Nice...
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
(Post 15912745)
Shock tower looks reversible for low cg shocks...Nice...
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Maybe the ULP shocks built with short ballcups will fit on the first inside hole, in case the original shocks are not available ...
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M07R
Anyone know where I might find a M07R kit for sell?
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I just love the M01 so much. I wish Tamiya would remake the original M01
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...bc6216ef0.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...ac973bb06.jpeg |
Hi All,
I have been thinking about jumping into the Mini realm and was hoping someone could give me a few pointers. What chassis is good for a mini beginner such as myself and what are the essentials required for it? thanks guys |
I created an m01 m02 Fcaebeen group. Join it please so we can discuss this awesome chassis and show off your build
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1131...are_group_link |
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...96c2feff5.jpeg
M02L tech racing, with other Tamiya, Tech upgrades. More mods coming soon and some custom stuff. This thing is basically a mini TA03R.. things a blast. I wish I could find a carbon chassis for it |
Getting back to the M- chassis. I started this thread years ago. Building a M07R . Hoping to start racing Mini .
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Originally Posted by sipaboy
(Post 16212609)
Getting back to the M- chassis. I started this thread years ago. Building a M07R . Hoping to start racing Mini .
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Question for the TCS racers who used to stiffen up the diff with blue-tack, anyone got a photo of hoW much and where in thediff it went?
I've locked up diffs with blue-tack before which just Involved shoving as much in that fitted, but the rules at the track I'm going to run at say: - using the Tamiya kit diffential components only - Oil type sealed diffs are NOT permitted - Ball differentials are NOT permitted - you MUST retain functional diff action at all times which lead me to remember the blue-tack method from the M03 days except I don't remember lhow it went to get about 80-90% stiffer. |
Ofna diff lock lube is the best...Limited slip diff with lots pull out of the corners, no wheel spin...Works on gear diffs, ball diffs, slipper clutches, etc....
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Originally Posted by academygaz
(Post 16254026)
Question for the TCS racers who used to stiffen up the diff with blue-tack, anyone got a photo of hoW much and where in thediff it went?
I've locked up diffs with blue-tack before which just Involved shoving as much in that fitted, but the rules at the track I'm going to run at say: - using the Tamiya kit diffential components only - Oil type sealed diffs are NOT permitted - Ball differentials are NOT permitted - you MUST retain functional diff action at all times which lead me to remember the blue-tack method from the M03 days except I don't remember lhow it went to get about 80-90% stiffer. |
Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
(Post 16254077)
Ofna diff lock lube is the best...Limited slip diff with lots pull out of the corners, no wheel spin...Works on gear diffs, ball diffs, slipper clutches, etc....
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Originally Posted by sosidge
(Post 16254358)
Have you actually been to a track or an RC shop in the last 20 years Bert? Ofna have been out of business for ages.
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
(Post 16254452)
Ofna out of business does not mean their products are any worse than anybody else's. You just have to find it on ebay or something or you can try energy suspension polyurethane bushing grease($18) for more diff action than the ofna diff lock lube but still stiff enough to stop diffing out... Bert Knowledge is power !!! LOL !!!
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You have to keep looking for over three months on ebay to find someone willing to sell his stock just as I did a while back : the world does not revolve around you....ok...If you really want it, you'll find it...Life is hard. Wake up !!!
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
(Post 16254472)
You have to keep looking for over three months on ebay to find someone willing to sell his stock just as I did a while back : the world does not revolve around you....ok...If you really want it, you'll find it...Life is hard. Wake up !!!
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Use the available energy suspension grease now while still looking for the ultimate Ofna diff lock lube. Take it or leave it...Stop crying !!! Lots of cry babies down under...WOW...
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Originally Posted by academygaz
(Post 16254026)
Question for the TCS racers who used to stiffen up the diff with blue-tack, anyone got a photo of hoW much and where in thediff it went?
I've locked up diffs with blue-tack before which just Involved shoving as much in that fitted, but the rules at the track I'm going to run at say: - using the Tamiya kit diffential components only - Oil type sealed diffs are NOT permitted - Ball differentials are NOT permitted - you MUST retain functional diff action at all times which lead me to remember the blue-tack method from the M03 days except I don't remember lhow it went to get about 80-90% stiffer. https://www.teamgravityrc.com/online...luid-p56979695 |
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