Mini35

I run the car indoors on carpet, it won't see asphalt now until next summer. I've got a hi-torque servo saver in my spares stash so I'll fit that with the alloy servo horn. I kind of hoped that the kit setup would be OK for at least a few runs, maybe that was too optimistic. The servo is relatively fast and it is a metal geared unit.

I'll see how I get on over the weekend, I also forgot to mention I clipped a track marker and ripped off the left knuckle so I'm waiting on the 51393 parts tree to arrive in the mail before I can have a car with 4 wheels again.

tamiyarcracer

Mini
My MO5 works pretty good on carpet.
Here is my set up for a starting point
I'm running it as the mid length car (swift), but I don't think the short car would change too much
Gear diff, full of antiwear grease built stock but I added 1 extra .3 shim on each side between the large washer and the gear.
I am running the Aluminum shocks with 40w oil and 2 hole pistons with 1 oring under the piston and no foam above the bladder,(all 4 corners)
white spring in the front and a yellow spring in the rear
Front camber link is in the upper hole
Rear camber link is in the lower hole. But I run 2 degree of camber in the rear (I have the adjustable links)
Steering is in the forward hole in the knuckle. I have the tie rod shimmed so it is pretty flat at ride height
And I run about 2 or 3 degree of toe out
Ride height is about 4.5mm front and 5.mm rear (Keep in mind ride height is relative as with the fixed upper link it changes camber. which on a fixed link ride height is a critical componant because of this.)
So with that said if you can get the camber to about 2 degree all around that should be close.
Tires front M-grip with a hard shaped insert
Tire rear S-grip with a hard foam insert.




Mind you I hate carpet, but it felt pretty good to me, and everyone that saw it was impressed. THe only complaint I have was if you applied power too early, it would lift the inside rear wheel, and sometime traction roll. I'm going to try thicker front oil next race.

I would really give the servo a look, I have seen many people fight a steering problem cause they had plastic gear servos and they installed the wrong screw in them and they would not center cause the screw (too big) swelled the gear creating a bind.

Let me know if you have any questions. Also if you try this, let me know your thoughts.

tamiyarcracer

Along with the new Abarth body, there are a few ohter items being released.


M-05 Aluminum Racing Steering Set
M-05 Aluminum Steering Link
M-05 Aluminum Steering Post

Moxy

iTrader: (1)

Do you have a link to these with part numbers, and release dates by chance?

Cheers
Moxy

RossoTorro

iTrader: (1)

My new fav body for M05 is the standard Fiat 500 with Suzuki rear wing.
Looks great, but will order 2x of the new Fiat Abarth!

I want the option parts from Tamiys too, but need new steering parts now.
I'm about to order 3racing steering since the standard plastic stucks!

tamiyarcracer

Hey Moxy,

This is all the information I have for ya.

Tamiya New Releases, All Japan Hobby Show

Team-RTR

is anyone running the TRF TC shocks on their mini? if so how much difference is there between the two? i know the M shocks are smaller, but is it very noticable?

Tim K

I run the Tamiya 84008 black edition TRF dampers, on the front only. On the rear I use the M-chassis TRF dampers. I have run TRF 53571 touring car shocks without a problem. I can't say that I've noticed much of a difference on the track.

PaPeRo

Should you limit the shock travel by using spacer inside the shocks since you're using the longer TC shocks? If you don't use spacer to limit shock travel wouldn't you get positive camber?

cannon

iTrader: (35)

As stated you put the spacers in TC shocks in a Mini otherwise too much droop. They just dont work. You also need to run the shorter springs otherwise you cant get a lower ride height on the Mini

Team-RTR

would putting the plastic spacer out of the M05 shocks into the TRF shocks be alright? got a pair of TC shocks i got off you ages ago waiting to be used...

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

Team-RTR,

If you read the attached link, it will tell you all about mini shocks. It relates what happens when you run them at full length and with spacers.

http://www.rc-mini.net/joomla/index....d=44&Itemid=60

tonyG,

Thanks for all the mini info in one place. I think people forget about your site.

Regards,

Calvin.

PaPeRo

Not shock related but in that article I found this part erroneous.

First of all the shaft does rotate, it rotates WITH the inner sleeve of the ball bearings. Or you could look at it as the shaft being stationary while the ball bearing and gear spins relative to the shaft. Second the hollow carbon shaft is much lighter than the stock steel one. If you're looking to save weight every little bit counts that's why people use aluminum or titanium screws, ball connectors, dogbones, axles instead of the steel ones.

Team-RTR

yeah even with my limited mini knowledge, i did find a few little things to be inaccurate on that site..

cannon

iTrader: (35)

The shaft doesn't rotate. It is jammed into the chassis halves. You have said it rotates then it doesn't rotate. You cant have both options . The bearings rotate on the shaft with the gear. As for saving weight, well the Mini is a better handler when not super light.

And guys, the website is very accurate regarding all things Mini