dave197

edit repost

tamiyarcracer

What is a superbodied Mini?

edwintklee

iTrader: (23)

hi calvin, i wonder what aloy upright/knuckle you are using?? is it tamiya for m03R?

well another question, i notice my m05 will traction roll to the left side(motor and esc side) any method to counter this?

edwintklee

iTrader: (23)

i check all those...all ok, i am using m03R aloy upright....back outer hole to the ball stud

Mini35

Like a lot of people I am chasing a baseline setup for the M05 and finding it a bit of a struggle. My old M03 had nothing other than a bearing set and it was great on asphalt and for carpets I just threw a set of S-grips on the rear.

My M05 however, is such a nightmare that at the club this week I put it back in the bag after 1 run and went back to the old car. Defeatist? Yes but I think I need more practice time and we pay £5 to race so I didn't want to throw money away spinning out at every corner.

The car set up is as follows:

M05 (not Pro) box stock with bearings and all steering dimensions strictly as per the manual (and checked with calipers!).

TRF #54000 M-chassis damper set with 2 hole pistons and 35wt oil front, 25wt rear. Blue dot springs front, yellow dot rear.

Kit 60D front tyres, S-grip rears.

Diff has a lexan shim in it to give it a semi-locked effect, this works fine in my M03.

Savox SC-1251MG steering servo

TEU101BK ESC and silvercan kit motor

Main problem is it pulls to the right massively under accelaration but runs true off power. Also the steering is really inconsistent, sometimes it understeers, most times it oversteers and spins, even with traction additive on the rears.

Help me please or its going in the bin!

dmcguire

iTrader: (37)

I had the exact same problem and it seemed that i had one of two reasons causing it: my ball diff being too tight or stripped out splines in the diff (someone suggested that a few pages back). I had it so tight that it had a slight notchy feel to it, still smooth but tighter spots. Try slightly loosening the diff nut and give that a go. As for the spline issue, even though my diff was brand new, i swapped the plate that goes over the diff nut (it has the female splines) and put new outdrives on it. Now the car tracks straight on and off power.

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

Mini35,

You can try the following. I am not sure if these will work for you, but give them ago.

1. Shim the steering linkage to get rid of all slop and replace the plastic bearings with 850 ball bearings.

2. Run a small amount of toe out as per Tamiya MO5 instructions on the front.

3. TRF M chassis shocks 3 hole piston; 40 wt oil Front and rear. Try softer springs front/ harder rear.

4. Try taking the shim out of the diff, see if it changes.

5. Change settings in your TX. The MO5 has way more steering and needs to be compensated in the TX.

6. Put the speedie on the opposite side to the motor and the RX other side.

7. Add some weight to the front, place tyre weight inside the front bumper.

I hope this gives you something to start with.

Regards,

Calvin.

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

edwintklee,

3Racing MO5 front knuckle is on my car in the picture. Run the speedie on the other side of the car, opposite to motor.

Regards,

Calvin.

Mini35

Thanks Calvin,

I'll work through the list over the weekend, some of it (850's in the steering and weights in the bumper) I'd already incorporated in the build, sorry should have mentioned them. I knew I'd be out on the oils but had no idea where to start from on that as I only had leftovers from my buggy, was a bit miffed that Tamiya didn't include any in the damper set at the price they charge for them to be honest.

I was kind of pointing the finger at the diff but altering that was last on my list of "to do's" as it's such a pain in the ass to split the chassis. I do have a ball diff built up but it's a Manta Ray version so once it's in it's in! Does the TA03 ball diff have the facility to be adjusted through the outdrive whilst its in situ or does it mean splitting the chassis to get to that one as well?

I'm glad I'm not a total newbie at RC ie, I know sometimes we have to work at it to get a car where we want it to be. If I were a young kid who'd been bought this car by a doting parent I might have given up on it straightaway and flipped over to a different hobby alotgether. Mr Tamiya, why do you enchant and infuriate us

tamiyarcracer

Mini, I might have missed it, but what type of surface?

Also is the servo a plastic geared servo or a metal gear?

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

Mini35,

TAO3 ball diff is similar to the Manta Ray just weighs less and has a thinner gear part. It is the same as the Manta ray not adjustable from the outside. I loctite the screw before placing in the car.

tamiyarcracer does have a good point. A cheap servo and servo saver will cause much misery in mini racing. I have had a car that would not track straight at all, it came back to the servo and servo saver. I now only run fast servo's in my cars and good servo savers.

I would not give up on the MO5, I have found with the right setup the car is stable and fast.

Regards,

Calvin.

Besercoe

iTrader: (9)

A few things to try,

Shimming up the bellcrank
Try a solid servo saver
Much softer springs, eg the flouro set, or the new 3R softer spring pairs.
Toe out on the front. 2-3 degrees.

edwintklee

iTrader: (23)

will do so after saw your car photo!!

academygaz

Coming out in M05M kit and XB versions, and to compliment it, ''89920 PS Pastel Gray (Limited Edition)'' paint.

NT

iTrader: (21)

Looks a bit too much of a 'blob' for me- needs a bit more definition over the rear wheels and a bit more aggression on the front spoiler.