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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 09-05-2009, 06:15 PM
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I wish Tamiya had released all of the Hopups for the MO5 by now. I would have purchased them all.

That way I know I am getting quality products. I think the steering rack assembly is a must. The plastic requires shimming after a few batteries, especially when you use the optional Tamiya MO5 alloy knuckles. These are lower in height than the standard plastic. The 3Racing alloy MO5 knuckle is the same shape as the standard Tamiya plastic knuckle. 3Racing must have been listening to customer compliants as these are thicker and have more reinforcement angles than previous parts.

Apologies for the gee up. I also think the parts are not due until the 19 Sep. I confused the date with the release date fro the optional Tech racing bits.

I have included the Tech Racing link. I hope it works.


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Old 09-06-2009, 03:45 AM
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I did some more testing today with my MO5M and MO5L, both with different setups and I can say they are easier to setup than the MO3's. You still tune with tyres, however the MO5 is less fickle than the MO3.

Not sure if I posted before, but using a swaybar on the front is a waste of time. I found it to take away to much steering and that was using the lighter swaybar. This is no good on a tight track.

For tuning I have found springs and tyres are where it is at. Both my cars use springs opposite to what we run on the MO3. That being said I also found setting up my TX better has made the car less twitchy.

Has anyone tried the Tamiya Fiat 500 body with a BL system. If so was it any good? I am considering using one, I just want some feedback first. I was used my old Swift body, but is starting to look very ratty and the only thing holding it together is tape.

I have also tried a spool and I must say they have some great drive out of the corners. I might have to stick with this for a while. Certainly pulled harder than my tight ball diff.

Hope everyone is getting some good setups, will have to start sharing some soon.


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Old 09-06-2009, 04:27 AM
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Hey everyone,

Please correct me if I m wrong.

Is the M05 Pro clear shock casing the exact same size as the TA05 ones?

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Old 09-06-2009, 07:39 AM
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Hi Calvin ,

I have chosen the 500 body as part of my Feral Mini kit...........
Here's where I'm at :

Fully assembled. Std gear diff. Waiting on the motor / esc combo from Greg.
I have yet to shim the axle end float & add droop 'o' rings to the shocks.
I will be setting the ride height tomorrow at work,with a 21.5 sitting in the chassis and 30g where I'm mounting the esc.
I will then measure the up travel with some callipers ,as my ride height gauge onl measures to 9mm. Lol.
My guess,is that it has around 9mm up travel at the moment......
I'm using the 3Racing alloy units ......

I'll give you a look over the car this friday , as you may find something I have missed.....
See you then,

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Old 09-06-2009, 01:28 PM
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Starting this fall my local track (The Coliseum in Frederick, MD) is starting up a Senior Spec and Mini race class. I'm new to the hobby and thought this would be a great way for me to get driving time in a fun yet competitive setting.

At this point I'm leaning towards the mini class. It appears that the TCS recognizes the M-03 and M-04 chassis for this class. However, I see that there is also a M-05 chassis. What kit would be the best investment to get started in this class? My goal is to hop up the car as I progress through the racing season. My hopes are that my driving skills will gradually improve so that 1) I will begin to appreciate and notice the improvements from the hop ups and 2) I may utilize these improvemnet to be more competitive in my races.

The 2 kits that I am currently looking at is the Tamiya M-03R and M-05 PRO. I believe these are the 2 kits that are approved for my local mini race class.


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Old 09-06-2009, 02:02 PM
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Here is a peek at what the new Fiat body will look like...It will be available first in a M05 kit (#58444) and then as a body set.
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Old 09-06-2009, 05:27 PM
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new Fiat body looks awsome, cant wait to get hold of one of these
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Old 09-06-2009, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by double_green

Starting this fall my local track (The Coliseum in Frederick, MD) is starting up a Senior Spec and Mini race class.
The 2 kits that I am currently looking at is the Tamiya M-03R and M-05 PRO. I believe these are the 2 kits that are approved for my local mini race class.


I am not sure if there is a big difference in price but if not I would start with the m03r. It is what most people are using right now and you can get help with the set up. A lot of people are still chasing the right set up for the M05 and parts are still hard to get. If you want to upgrade to the M05 later its like $40 in parts.

I plan to race at Fredrick this fall as well. I am curently racing @ Hobbytown in Glen Burnie.

My 2 cents,
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Old 09-06-2009, 06:49 PM
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We had an interesting mix of cars at the South Australian state titles this last weekend. Low entries saw it open up to anyone running an M05 to try and get some more entries as a few locals have bought these. Most did not bite and all up with 4 entries we had an M03L, 2 x M03s and a M05. All running hobby wings with the M05 driver also using 60d's up front and smaller tyres in the rear where as the rest were running the smaller tyres such as Rides, HPI X patterns and Shimizu's. Looking over the sheets the M05 had a clear better time around the track with a best of 20.363 compared to the M03's 20.667 but could not run around as consistent with a best deviation on the M05 being 0.93 compared to the M03's 0.30. Best lap previously has been around the 19.8 mark but it was a cold weekend with the track not really warming up and producing awesome lap times.

I was tempted to change to some S and M grips i had in the bag but decided to stay with the tyres i know work and it paid off with the TQ and win in 2 out of 3 finals. I got bumped in the first main and came second but ran my best 2 15 lap runs of the weekend in final 2 and 3 with my best deviation of 0.3 and best lap of the weekend coming in lap 6 of the last main. Gotta love hobby wings with a 20c lipo. Puts to rest the argument that a 25c lipo can make a difference as well with Daza pulling the same sort of speed as me all weekend and he has new 25c lipos and hobby wing and I was running 12 month old lipos and hobby wing. We had varying degrees of traction problems as the meet progressed and I found the change to hard inserts worked really well.

There are a lot of variables to this but with more set up I think the M05 can be faster than the old car and as soon as one of these new kits come out i will be getting one. Had to love the M05 running the Datsun 1600 body all weekend too and I cant wait to get a collection of bodies for mine soon.
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Old 09-07-2009, 08:33 AM
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Double Green, RayK and I are the ones who will be shepherding the Mini Spec class through the Fall and Winter months. We started Senior Spec last year & it was a great success. We're turning over day-to-day Head Guy duties for SS to Larry, also known as Gepetto, so that we can concentrate on the Mini's.

You'll get the most setup advice if you run the M03 because right now that's the car with which we are most familiar (RayK was 2nd overall at the recent TCS Nats, I was 9th). I guarantee that we can get an M03R running well in a single night...then you'll have to wheel it and trim it out to suit your driving style. Plus, the R comes with the neato front blue hub carriers. Get the R, a body, and a set of CVD's and you should be good for the season.

I have an M05 but am holding off on working with it until some more of the Tamiya hop-ups are released, particularly the steering upgrade and motor plate/heat sink. I'm sure it's the car of the future, but the future isn't quite here yet.
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Old 09-07-2009, 10:59 AM
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Thumbs up body shell

mate that body shell is sick
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Old 09-07-2009, 11:06 AM
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Default Overheated Black Can

Hey guys, I have a question and I'm hoping someone will have some perspective on it.

Last week we ran a black can mini night at the RC club. My car was a bit overgeared and the motor ran really hot. (I would have geared down, but didn't have enough wire on the motor to twist it to the 18T position.)

The inside of the motor was very black when I finally took a look at it yesterday. Even the comm was black. I spent some time getting it cleaned up, ran it at low voltage, ran a little Brasso on the comm and got it looking pretty good.

I plunked the motor in one of my cars and took it for a few laps. I was using a Novak 4 Cell GTB speedy. It didn't take very long for the speedy to get very hot and go into thermal shutdown. A few hours later I got if fired up again, but even just running slow on the bench with no load it got warm and shut down.

So, the question is, if a motor has been over heated can it create a whole lot of resistance or other problems that will cook an ESC? Just wondering if I need to replace the ESC, the motor, or both.

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Old 09-07-2009, 11:23 AM
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And you guys wonder why none of us like using the sports-tuners!?!

Yeah, before we switched to hobbywings, I had one do something similar-even my motor master would not run it saying it had an error. I'd bin it and get a new one. It's shorted out/burnt out the motor.

I'd honestly suggest trying a hobbywing too if your local rules allow it, I promise you won't regret it
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Old 09-07-2009, 11:34 AM
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We're not there (BL) yet. That's an eventuality. We usually run silver cans.

So, what actually shorts out? Do the brushes get cooked? The comm? Windings? Just wondering about what actually happens when it cooks.

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Old 09-07-2009, 12:17 PM
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Its the coils in the armature. The epoxy coating melted and shorted the coils. If the esc went into thermal shutdown, it should still be working. I've seen one without thermal protection catch fire!!
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