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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 07-10-2009, 08:40 PM
  #9451  
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Originally Posted by rccardr
Charlie, how much does your M05 weigh without any lead in it?
My mid wheel base M05 Pro with TA03 ball dif, Futaba 9551 servo, Stainless hindge pins, and TRF shocks was 83 grams light of the 1300 gram minimum. That is in the mid wheel base set up. I was more concernd when I tweeked the car it is WAY heavy on the motor side. I'll be putting a tungsten plate in the servo slot for this weekends racing.
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Old 07-12-2009, 02:48 AM
  #9452  
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It's done, it's finished, and after 4 months of planning I don't have to think Mini 50 any more..



M03 class - Andy Cooke, Kirby Masterman, Ash Peeler.
Monster Mini Class - Dave Bain, Tim Keiller, Ty Wood.

Unfortunately the venue didn't really lend itself to filming, so the DVD aspect of things had to be canned. However we will have our usual 'A' final footage up in a day or so, and the full story over the next week.

Big Thanks from me personally to Tony P, Timmy, NT, Brad and Dogs. And also to all the people who travelled a long way to attend, as well as the locals.

And also thanks to Radical r/c (http://www.radicalrchobbies.com.au) for the use of their AMB system, Venom (http://www.venom-group.com) for providing some killer lipo sacks for giveaways, The Boronia Club for use of the roadrail track barrier system, our home club Keilor for a last minute hurried computer swap and Southern Hobbies in Frankston (http://www.southernhobbies.com.au) who kicked in some much need cash to help us from not taking a bath on the whole thing!
And the legend himself Willy Chang from Panda GFX (http://www.pandagfx.com/) for bringing us along a whole heap of rc-mini stickers as well!
And also to Greg Fisher and Cal Holmes, Kirby and Ian Masterman, Mark and Ben Lawson, and Andy Cooke, all of whom were there either helping us set the event up, or tear it down afterwards. Thanks Guys, the help was much appreciated!
And to Damien Kent who graciously offered to return the Roadrail to Boronia so I didn't have to drive all the way back...

Thanks Guys.

I don't want to see a toy car for about 2 months....

Last edited by tony gray; 07-14-2009 at 12:13 AM.
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Old 07-12-2009, 08:49 AM
  #9453  
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Originally Posted by edwintklee
could any 1 help me with m05 hop up parts number?

thank a lot....i am going to try out M03 blue knuckle on m05 pro... any different feel if using m05 alloy knuckle?
That's good to hear. I'm curious if there are any differences too.
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Old 07-12-2009, 09:04 AM
  #9454  
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There is no difference in the front alloy knuckle on the MO3R and the MO5 PRO hop up part. You fit the tall brass ball stud in the front forward hole in the knuckle on the MO5 and you use a short ball stud on the rear inner hole on the MO3R. This is for the steering not to be at an angle and change the ackerman.

The plastic front knuckle in the MO5 is of different construction to the MO3M kit. The MO5 uses 1150 bearing and is of different design with the arm higher for the bellcrank steering.

Using a small ball stud on the MO5/MO3R alloy knuckle when fitted to the MO5 will mess up the steering angles.

I will post a picture tomorrow. I am too tired from travelling back from the Mini 50.

Regards,

Calvin.
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Old 07-12-2009, 04:42 PM
  #9455  
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Originally Posted by caltek1
There is no difference in the front alloy knuckle on the MO3R and the MO5 PRO hop up part. You fit the tall brass ball stud in the front forward hole in the knuckle on the MO5 and you use a short ball stud on the rear inner hole on the MO3R. This is for the steering not to be at an angle and change the ackerman.

The plastic front knuckle in the MO5 is of different construction to the MO3M kit. The MO5 uses 1150 bearing and is of different design with the arm higher for the bellcrank steering.

Using a small ball stud on the MO5/MO3R alloy knuckle when fitted to the MO5 will mess up the steering angles.

I will post a picture tomorrow. I am too tired from travelling back from the Mini 50.

Regards,

Calvin.
would love to hear a race report and any M03 vs M05 comparo under race conditions
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Old 07-12-2009, 05:49 PM
  #9456  
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A few of us are planning a 03 v 05 test in a couple of weeks. We've struggled to find good weather out here to try it so far!
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Old 07-12-2009, 05:59 PM
  #9457  
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edwintklee,

The MO5 Aluminium Front up right/knuckle is Tamiya PNo 54177. This is the same as the MO3R knuckle in Tamiya PNo 49441, but does not include the steering turnbuckles.

Regards,

Calvin.
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Old 07-12-2009, 06:55 PM
  #9458  
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hey calvin, this what i did to my mo3R knuckle, comment are wellcome.

what i did was instead of using the long ball stud, i use blue spacer with the hollow ball stud.

also i include the photo of the steering link....

btw...i don understand what is "change the ackerman"

photo here...
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/7897/13072009002.jpg
http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/1413/13072009003.jpg
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/5575/13072009006.jpg





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Old 07-12-2009, 08:46 PM
  #9459  
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edwintklee,

I have used a similar setup on other knuckles using a droop screw, spacer and low friction ball stud on my mini's. That is stronger than using the brass tall ballstud. At present for my testing I have used the brass ballstud, so I can move it to the forward or rearward hole on the knuckle, this will affect the ackerman a, ie steering response.

The position in the front knuckle you have used should make the steering less reactive/slower to driver input.

I have mine set presently in the forward hole, as per the instructions and have found it to be very reactive. This can be toned down through your radio.

If you use a short ball stud in the knuckle the angle from the knuckle to the steering rack will not be straight and will affect your steering.

I have included some photo's of my car. I am not using kit hexes, or the same size front and rear. I have found the car to be very stable with the setup I am using. The shocks are off my MO3, with no adjustment to them.

Regards,

Calvin.
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya mini cooper-dsc01782.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-dsc01781.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-dsc01777.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-dsc01775.jpg  

Last edited by caltek1; 07-12-2009 at 08:59 PM.
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Old 07-12-2009, 08:51 PM
  #9460  
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Here are a couple more. Yes I know it needs cleaning, just what happens when you run on a dirty track. The tyres fitted work well at Penrith for a cold nights racing.

I should add here that I have only run the car at two different tracks. One was during the day when it was reasonably warm and I tested a few different tyre combinations and once on a cold chilly night.

The same as the MO3 the car can be tuned with tyres. At this time I have not compared lap times to an MO3, but hope to soon. I am thinking that TFG and the boy's will get to it sooner than me. I hope to glue up some more tyres this week and get out to Whalan for more testing, so I know what combinations work and which is the fastest.

Setups used here in Australia, may not necessarily work O/S due to different track conditions and personal driving styles.

Later

Calvin
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya mini cooper-dsc01772.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-dsc01778.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-dsc01779.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-dsc01780.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-dsc01781.jpg  


Last edited by caltek1; 07-12-2009 at 09:11 PM. Reason: xtra text
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Old 07-12-2009, 09:29 PM
  #9461  
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Seems like M03 heatsink can't be used on M05, eh?
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Old 07-12-2009, 09:40 PM
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Yes it can be. It just isn't supported on the outside of the chassis. The only reason I never fitted it was that I didn't have screws long enough to reach the motor and it does bugger all when heat transfer is through two screws.

I am hoping they make a metal heatsink which will replace the plastic motor support in the MO5. This would work alot better, similar to the old MO1 motor heat sink.

Later,

Calvin.

Last edited by caltek1; 07-12-2009 at 11:36 PM.
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Old 07-12-2009, 11:16 PM
  #9463  
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Originally Posted by caltek1
Yes it can be. It just isn't supported on the outside of the chassis. The only reason I never fitted it was that I didn't have screws long enough to reach the motor and it does bugger all when heat transfer is through two screws.

I am hoping they make a metal heatsink which will replace the plastic motor support in the MO5. This would work alot better, similar to the old MO1 heat sink.

Later,

Calvin.
can you still get pit shimizu tires? What do you use for the front tire/inserts? Currently, I'm using spice 36 with soft 5mm inserts all four. Been trying to setup my m05 at the local track, but having a hard time finding a balance between smoothness(bumpy track) and corner response.
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Old 07-12-2009, 11:34 PM
  #9464  
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redbones,

Yes, pit shimizu tyres are still available. These are not made from the same rubber as previously. They are still great tyres. I have been using Ride green or orange inserts in them. These inserts are 4.1mm in thickness. I get mine from Feral Batteries here in Australia.

The ones pictured on my car have ride foams fitted which work best in the cold. These foams are from old Ride tyres. (3030, 3023 or 3015). The front tyres on my car are older Ride "S" tyres fitted with 5mm Spice insert. These are discontinued.


Regards,

Calvin.

Last edited by caltek1; 07-12-2009 at 11:35 PM. Reason: xtra text
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Old 07-13-2009, 12:17 AM
  #9465  
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Originally Posted by caltek1
redbones,

Yes, pit shimizu tyres are still available. These are not made from the same rubber as previously. They are still great tyres. I have been using Ride green or orange inserts in them. These inserts are 4.1mm in thickness. I get mine from Feral Batteries here in Australia.

The ones pictured on my car have ride foams fitted which work best in the cold. These foams are from old Ride tyres. (3030, 3023 or 3015). The front tyres on my car are older Ride "S" tyres fitted with 5mm Spice insert. These are discontinued.


Regards,

Calvin.
Thanks for the info. Tried searching for pit shimizu, but no one seems to have them. But I guess the key is to use grippier tires in the back for stability. My track has this one section where if you go full throttle into the transition, the rear will spin out. It does this no where else on the track. The only way to avoid this is to simply go slower, or get the perfect line with minimal steering input.
But now I'm starting to think that maybe the chassis is rolling to a point where the bumpin becomes too much and it tucks in. I noticed that if you use the lower mounting hole for the front upper arm, the bump steer becomes very pronounce. Maybe if I use the stock position and eliminate bump steer through the entire suspension travel, it might get easier. Knowledge from TC can only be used partially for minis and you need to use some weird tactics to get them working sometimes. I guess that's the fun part of mini

Oh, what shock lengths do you run btw? Thanks
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